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I began reloading back in the 70's and recently started again. My son has a Ruger rifle chambered for 5.56 and wants me to reload some rounds for him. I have searched for 5.56 dies but only seem to find .223 dies, while I understand they are interchangeable but unsure whether that applies to reloading . Can anyone shed some light on my concern?
 
Dimensionally they are identical. The difference is primarily load pressure and internal case measurements.
 
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@762x39 is correct. Your son's rifle has a chamber marked 5.56 so he's able to shoot both .223 Rem and 5.56x45 ammo which can be loaded to a higher pressure level than 223 Rem

Dimensionally the two cartridges are essentially the same.
When properly headspaced, any 223 Rem die will be able to load cartridges for your son's rifle.

Update: I'm guessing your son's rifle is an AR. If so, consider getting small base dies which size the body slightly narrower which is designed to improve chambering. Bolt action rifles don't have to reloaded with SB dies, unless you encounter "clicky bolt", then they can help.
 
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Use some good solid primers for an AR to prevent slam fires. Some will say this is bunk but I say better safe than sorry.

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Welcome to the furum @Butch44 ! Wanted to point out that 5.56 isn't necessarily heavier than other brass. I just watched a YouTube from Johnny's Reloading Bench where he was loading 5.56/,223 from five different brands. Federal Lake City turned out to be smack in the middle for weight and volume. Hornady and Norma .223 were actually heavier and had less volume. Moral of the story is to treat all 5.56 and .223 brass the same and start on the low end and work your way up like all other rounds looking for high pressure signs.
 
Welcome to NWFA.
Their is a small diff between .223 and 5.56, that is not related to case dimensions.
The "leade" or free-bore is greater in the 5.56 chamber, so the bullet has a bit more to "jump" before it hits the rifling.
 
There is an RCBS die set, #11107, that says, ".223 Rem/5.56x45" on the label. It's a small base set with a taper crimp profile in the bullet seating die. For people who want to use those features. You may not feel a need for a small base die. But the SB die sizes the case more closely to factory specs than standard dies.

Their is a small diff between .223 and 5.56, that is not related to case dimensions.
The "leade" or free-bore is greater in the 5.56 chamber, so the bullet has a bit more to "jump" before it hits the rifling.

This same difference in the leade of the rifling is what causes typical military type FMJ bullets not to do well in some sporting rifles chambered for .223. Or .222, for that matter. My .223 Ruger 77 Mark II won't shoot 55 gr. military FMJ bullets very accurately, nor would a .222 Rem. I had. I've read in some of the mainstream magazines over the years that my experiences weren't unique.

So, you might say there is such a thing as a 5.56mm bullet.

Ammo I've loaded for my .223 bolt and single shot rifles is in a separate stack from those loaded for my AR's.

I've never tried a 62 gr. military FMJ in my sporting rifles chambered in .223 because they are 1-12 twist.
 
I agree with @ron 100%. No need for small base sizer die and no need for taper crimp. I've reloaded thousands of .223 with regular sizer die and no cramp. Check out Glen Zedicker for the best information on reloading .223/5.56 and .308/7.62.
 
My .223 Ruger 77 Mark II won't shoot 55 gr. military FMJ bullets very accurately, nor would a .222 Rem. I had. I've read in some of the mainstream magazines over the years that my experiences weren't unique.
No rifle shoots the 55 FMJ very accurately. Even in a match grade AR. Hornady 55 FMJ shoot a little better but
55 FMJ are the worst bullet for accuracy. If you are looking for sub MOA groups try some Sierra Match Kings 53s or 52s.
They work in about any twist barrel. The cheap 55s are good for minute of beer can.:eek:
 
No rifle shoots the 55 FMJ very accurately.

Maybe I didn't adequately express the degree of difference in accuracy. In the Ruger 77, the 55 gr. FMJ would spray a 10 inch group. Same bullet in an SP-1 would do 1 to 2 inch groups. Changing to a RP 55 gr. spire point in the Ruger 77 gave a 1 inch group.
 
I'm not aware of any bullet being specifically for the 5.56 exclusively. Twist rate and jump to the lands are going to be two of the biggest factors in selecting the projectile.
 
Twist plays a role.
My 1:7 twist AR is really liking the 77gr projectiles I've been trying. 69s too.

Conventional advice is that going lighter than 55 in a 1:7 twist will NOT improve accuracy
 
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With the standard Nato chamber your load data is slightly different.
He is a link to Nosler online load recipes for that along with other calibers.
Optimal 1-7 twist rate shoots 69-85 accurately
My 8 twist shoots 34 lead free - 75 lead core accurately.
Always use a recent load book or online guide to work up your loads.

 
Small base dies are not necessary. I reload thousands of 556 or 223 brass annually;) I use standard
RCBS full length dies. No crimp.:eek: I have been reloading the 223 for +35 years. I fire all this ammo in several
different AR rifles over the years. A lot of 'Match' grade ammo.:D
Hoping you can help me out! I have been having major issues reloading and it's making me want to get rid of it all haha
I received some lake city brass, federal and Winchester from a guy. The comparator measurements varied from 1.530 to 1.640. I found some brass i fired out of my 5.56 18" and they measured avg 1.660. Is it okay to use the smaller measured brass or do I toss them? They need to be resized as the bullet falls through but when I resize the shorter ones, they go down to 1.510-1.520. If anyone has some advice I am all for it. Thanks
 

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