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so i hand cast my own .38 slugs... 158 swc.. basic stuff, have added linotype and other things to try to get them harder.. still having leading issues..
the question is, can i simply add gas checks to my hand cast bullets, or do i need specially molded bullets for gas checks...
will adding gas checks be worth the cost as far as slowing down the leading of my guns?
 
The molds are designed with gas check features in them. If your mold does not have the feature designed in, you shouldn't try to put a check on it. With proper lube and sizing, you can run those bullets up to 1300-1500 FPS with no check.

I also run bullets with gas check designs with no check if I am shooting them subsonic.
 
Over hard bullets can cause leading just as overly soft bullets will, if you're not pushing them really hard try softening them up some to see if that helps the leading.

Even full bore .357 loads shouldn't require a gas check, fiddle with the lead hardness, your lube recipe, and if that doesn't work slug the bore, it might be oversized.
 
1: Slug your barrel, size accordingly.
2: Test your BHN, load pressures high enough (stay within published specs) to obturate.

Or just coat your bullets :)
 
Yes, you need special molds to produce bullets suitable for using gas checks. You can also use the bullets from the mold without gas checks.
Almost all leading problems are due to bullets that are too hard or bullets that are too small. A poor lubricant is next on the list.
Lead bullets must be AT LEAST 0.001" larger than ACTUAL barrel groove diameter and no smaller than a very snug slip-fit in the cylinder's throats.
I have NEVER had a problem with bullets being too soft in about 40 years. Of course, firing my cast bullets in a .30-30 or .30-06 or 7mm TCU, I use gas checks if the velocities are going to be 2000 fps or higher.
Thus, if your revolver has cylinder throats that are too small, you will not have a lot of success with lead bullets.
Go to
http://www.lasc.us/Fryxell_Book_Contents.htm
and read the section on causes of leading in revolvers.
 
Gas checks are just an added expense and "make-work" that isn't at all necessary for even standard bullet weight magnum loads.. even with quite soft lead (#2 alloy and even softer).
What diameter does your mold throw with your alloy?
What do you size them to?
Many try their slugs unzised, given that the loaded round will still chamber.
Good luck.
 
Gas checks are just an added expense and "make-work" that isn't at all necessary for even standard bullet weight magnum loads.. even with quite soft lead (#2 alloy and even softer).
What diameter does your mold throw with your alloy?
What do you size them to?
Many try their slugs unzised, given that the loaded round will still chamber.
Good luck.
Have cast bullets for 44 magnum for over 40 years. Started with gas check molds and sized /lube them and never had any problem with leading. I don't worry about the mixture of metals. Used mostly wheel weights.
Probably over 1500 cast / shot . Bullets vary a little bit in weight, but unless your looking to shoot over a 100 yards it won't make much difference .
 
Have cast bullets for 44 magnum for over 40 years. Started with gas check molds and sized /lube them and never had any problem with leading. I don't worry about the mixture of metals. Used mostly wheel weights.
Probably over 1500 cast / shot . Bullets vary a little bit in weight, but unless your looking to shoot over a 100 yards it won't make much difference .
Oh I hear you and wouldn't doubt it. Elmer Keith, the inventor of that and other like cartridges, only very rarely used GC's or any factory load. And just to be honest, I've cast and shot 1500 magnum rounds in a single day.. not that that has anything to do with anything. No leading and no cleaning within that day though.. and not gas checked. anyway
 
I use gas checks to insure a uniform base on my lead bullets. And they help grab the shallow rifling on 9mm.
I have pat marlins Checkmaker™ and can put checks on slugs not designed for them.

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I've always thought those were kinda neat.
I'll just keep buying from Hornady though as I've only ever GC'd for my 30-06 and 1000@$30 lasts a while.
And it seems lots of folk use aluminum for their home-made gas checks. I don't know about that.. aluminum oxidizes and aluminum oxide is harder than diamond.
Also, my plain base cast handgun loads shoot better than any factory load I've ever shot (especially in those pesky "shallow rifled 9mm's").. including factory loaded lead target wadcutters.
 
I use gas checks to insure a uniform base on my lead bullets. And they help grab the shallow rifling on 9mm.
I have pat marlins Checkmaker™ and can put checks on slugs not designed for them.

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Thanks.

I don't reload much anymore, I prefer to purchase ammo as it is just more convenient as I still work 40+ hrs a week. But some ammo just isn't made by most manufacturers; light loads and certain cast boolits loads. When I retire I will have more time and I would like to work up various cast boolit loads - especially for rifles. Having something to make gas checks would be nice for hunting loads if SHTF.
 

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