Refinishing a gun?? who?

[dobeman]

Spent time with my aged Essex 1911 last night. Told her she was still pretty and still had a place in my heart. She wants a trip to the gun day spa to get prettied up. Her finish is worn. Who in the Hillsboro/Westside area could refinish a handgun? It's not blued - I guess its more of a grey primer parkerized look. Or is this even worth doing? While she's there, was also thinking she might need new springs and stuff. Thanks for any recommendations.

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[Silver Fox]

One of our sight sponsors, Southridge Arms (found here: http://www.northwestfirearms.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=61) does excellent work and is a 1911 guru. I have seen his custom work and it is beautiful and Dave runs a professional shop. His turn around time is excellent and the quality of his workmanship sets a standard for others to follow. Check him out, he is worth the FEDEX next day shipping to WA.

SF-

 

[dobeman]

Thanks... I'll check him out.

 

[Chee-to]

In Salem, had a Beretta hot blued here, and they did a beautiful job....

MLC Exotic Class III‎
1997 25th St SE
Salem, OR 97302
(503) 370-8900

 

[MountainBear]

Also check out Todd down at Koonce Customs in Salem. I would trust my work with him.

 

[cbzdel]

One of our sight sponsors, Southridge Arms (found here: http://www.northwestfirearms.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=61) does excellent work and is a 1911 guru. I have seen his custom work and it is beautiful and Dave runs a professional shop. His turn around time is excellent and the quality of his workmanship sets a standard for others to follow. Check him out, he is worth the FEDEX next day shipping to WA.

SF-

Sent him a message, I have been looking for someone as well.

 

[SquackDaddy]

just a slight hijack:

I have an older .22 single shot rifle I would like to get re-blued. It does have sentimental value, as it was my Father's rifle. I have asked a few places and they want upwards of $150-$200 to do this. It is in very good shape, no pitting etc, I just want it redone so it looks nice. Where can a guy get this done without spending an arm and a leg?

 

[MountainBear]

You get what you pay for. That estimate sounds fairly reasonable for a polish and blue job...

 

[SquackDaddy]

to polish what? no nicks or pitting. the metal is in excellent shape, it would need very minor polishing. I guess I just can't see paying $150 to hot blue a rifle that is probably worth $60.

 

[dobeman]

This has been learning experience. I must have been living under a rock. But try and arrange to send a handgun to an out of state gunsmith to be refinished and you quickly realize how little freedom we have.

1. I, as non FFL person, cannot send the handgun to the FFL gunsmith via USPS. Only FFL to FFL can do that. I could send rifle or shotgun to him through USPS. You can't send a part of a gun - the BATF considers the frame or receiver of a handgun as a firearm. So you would be one xray machine or postal inspection (which they have the right to do) from a felony.

2. UPS, DHL don't do handguns. At least from shmucks like me.

3. My only choice is FedEx Priority Overnight at about $30 one way, and this is only because I as a nonFFL person am shipping to a FFL.

So, average American gunowners without Federal licenses are a FedEx corporate decision to not ship firearms away from not being able to send firearms anywhere - legally. Without using Federally licensed (i.e., controlled and logged) entities.

Big Brother is watching... muwahahhahahahaahha

 

[SquackDaddy]

I doubt you will be able to get a hot blue job for less than the value of the rifle.

Your alternative is to use a cold blue. Don't use Birchwood Casey or even Brownells Oxpho-Blue. I've used the two products below and they are superior to the store-bought products

http://www.shootersolutions.com/gunblue.html
http://bluewonder.us/BlueWonderGunBlue.html

BSG,

I'm not expecting to get this done for less than $60. On the other hand, I am not willing to pay someone upwards of $200 for what amounts to a few hours work. I realize that you get what you pay for, I just can't see forking out that much $$$ for this. I guess Dad's gun will have to stay the way it is, unless I can find someone who is willing to help a brother out.

 

[MountainBear]

The problem is, you cannot just dunk the gun in a tank and go. All previous bluing needs to be removed. Depending on the degree of polish you want, the gun will need to be polished at least once. My general technique for a gun with no bad scars, scratches, or dings was to give the gun a fine bead blast first. Then it gets polished at 320 grit, then to 400. If you stop there, you into the project at least an hour so far (Don't forget, the gun has to be disassembled fully). If you want a high-gloss polish, you can count on at least another hour to get it done right. Then the tanks need to be started. Warm up for the four tanks that need heat can take a while, as the soap and rinse tanks need to be at 140 to 150 degrees, the salt bath needs to be at least 270 degrees (if not hotter for different metal types), and the last rinse needs to be boiling. Once the tanks are at temp, its at least a few minutes to clean and rinse before going into the salt bath for at least 1/2 hour or more. Then its into the boil out to remove all the salts so you don't get leaking salts later. That's at least 1/2 hour to 45 minutes depending on the complexity of the project. Then its transferred into an oil bath for another 1/2 hour. Then the project is wrapped and left to cure overnight. Then it has to be cleaned again the next day before being re-assembled, oiled, and function tested.

As you can see, its a bit more complex than an hours worth of work. Assuming its a simple job, its still several hours into the project for the gunsmith. Not to mention the cost of the supplies (salts, cleaning stuff, oil). There are ways to cut time out of the above process, but the above way will give professional results everytime. Trust me, I've done it once or twice...

 

[SquackDaddy]

The problem is, you cannot just dunk the gun in a tank and go. All previous bluing needs to be removed. Depending on the degree of polish you want, the gun will need to be polished at least once. My general technique for a gun with no bad scars, scratches, or dings was to give the gun a fine bead blast first. Then it gets polished at 320 grit, then to 400. If you stop there, you into the project at least an hour so far (Don't forget, the gun has to be disassembled fully). If you want a high-gloss polish, you can count on at least another hour to get it done right. Then the tanks need to be started. Warm up for the four tanks that need heat can take a while, as the soap and rinse tanks need to be at 140 to 150 degrees, the salt bath needs to be at least 270 degrees (if not hotter for different metal types), and the last rinse needs to be boiling. Once the tanks are at temp, its at least a few minutes to clean and rinse before going into the salt bath for at least 1/2 hour or more. Then its into the boil out to remove all the salts so you don't get leaking salts later. That's at least 1/2 hour to 45 minutes depending on the complexity of the project. Then its transferred into an oil bath for another 1/2 hour. Then the project is wrapped and left to cure overnight. Then it has to be cleaned again the next day before being re-assembled, oiled, and function tested.

As you can see, its a bit more complex than an hours worth of work. Assuming its a simple job, its still several hours into the project for the gunsmith. Not to mention the cost of the supplies (salts, cleaning stuff, oil). There are ways to cut time out of the above process, but the above way will give professional results everytime. Trust me, I've done it once or twice...

Mountainbear,
I appreciate the explanation you have given about what it takes to do this kind of work. I know that time + materials = money. Lord knows that some people I have quoted for work have about fallen over when I told them how much it was going to cost. LOL

I guess I was just hoping to find someone who had to fire up their bluing equipment already and kind of sneak my stuff in..........since it was already set up and ready to go. A single shot .22 rifle is pretty basic without alot of parts. Guess I'll just keep the rifle the way it is.