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Recommended tools for AR builds
- Thread Starter Lars
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A good set of Brass punches, and tool steel roll pin punches for the gas block/front sight.
Small flat blade screw drivers and small pliers, multi/combo armorers wrench, sight tools if you run irons
Barrel vice jaw inserts, action holding tool for assembling or servicing uppers.
Not a very big investment in tools unless your building race guns.
Small flat blade screw drivers and small pliers, multi/combo armorers wrench, sight tools if you run irons
Barrel vice jaw inserts, action holding tool for assembling or servicing uppers.
Not a very big investment in tools unless your building race guns.
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https://www.northwestfirearms.com/threads/best-site-to-buy-gunsmithing-tools.312677/#post-2395913
I've been using a Jawhorse rather than a vise for portability.
I've been using a Jawhorse rather than a vise for portability.
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This is a basic set recommended...
-Brownells Screwdriver (Best) or Wheeler Gunsmith Screwdriver Set (Good)
The Brownells has a lifetime warranty which means if you break a bit, Brownells will replace it with no questions asked. Using Gunsmith Bits are a MUST if you don't want to hack up you AR, or your other firearms.
-Inch Pound Torque Wrench
I like the Wheeler FAT Wrench (Non Digital). The best prices are usually on Amazon. It does forward and reverse torque and clicks/breaks when it reaches it's setting. These are great for mounting Rails, Optics, and Gas Key Screws. I own 5 of these and they have held up at my Work Bench and in Classes.
-Cheap Steel & Brass 17pc Punch Set
You can get these from Amazon. The kits come with a Spring Loaded Center Punch which can be used for Castle Nut Staking, or "Field Staking" the top of the Carrier Key.
-Tape Measure
For measuring Buffer Springs.
-.080 Weed Eater Line
-4 to 8 Ounce Ball Peen Hammer
You don't want a roofing hammer or a claw hammer. A 4 Ounce Ball Peen is my favorite.
-Harbor Freight Rubber Mallet
Great for moving stubborn parts without damaging the material or finish.
-Harbor Freight Plastic Dead Blow Hammer
Great for moving stubborn parts without damaging the material or finish.
-Digital or Analog Calipers
These are for basic checking of parts and for doing a crude a Firing Pin Protrusion check. You can buy a budget models but you can't always trust them. In my opinion, it's better to have a Harbor Freight Caliper than nothing, but if you can afford it a good Mitutoyo will give a lifetime of reliable service.
-1.4646 Forster 5.56 GO Headspace Gauge (Brownells)
-Obsidian Arms Punch Set
-Little Crow Gunworks Bolt Catch Tool
-Brownells Magazine Catch Install Tool
-Brownells Chamber Reflector Tool
-Starrett 117c (Best) or Mayhew 5/32x4 1/2 punch (Good)
These are for staking the Castle Nut if you don't like using a Spring Loaded Center Punch
-Pivot Pin Install Tool
You can use an Exacto Knife, Magnet, ¼" Clevis Pin & Punch, Real Avid Tool, or other specialized Tools made for this job. The Real Avid is one of the easiest to use and cost effective.
-M-Guns Gas Tube Bender
-Brownells Gas Tube Wrench/Vise
-Geissele Hammer & Trigger Install Pin
This helps install an AR FCG, but can be used to Oil or Abrasive Lap the bores in an AR Lower Receiver if they are too small.
-AR General Purpose Brush
-Iosso AR Nylon Brush Set
I don't use bronze or stainless brushes for firearms.
-Rapid Rod (Best) or Steel USGI Sectioned Cleaning Rod (Good)
These are not for regular cleaning. They are great for cleaning in the field and for dislodging a stuck casing.
-One Piece Cleaning Rod and AR Upper Receiver Bore Guide
-Optics Cleaning Kit
-Basic Chemicals/Solvents
Aeroshell 64 (Barrel Nuts and Castle Nuts)
Rocksett or Loctite 271/272
Blue Stick Loctite (NOT the liquid type)
Cold Blue (Steel Touch-up)
Aluminum Black (Aluminum Touch-up)
Synthetic Grease (Assembly Lube)
Kroil Oil or PB Blaster (Seized Fasteners)
Steel Wool
Loctite 620 or Permatex Indian Gasket Shellac (Barrel Bedding and for Carrier/Gas Key Installs)
Lubricant
Bore Cleaner
Birchwood Casey Barricade (Great for external wipe downs)
Next step up...
-A SOLID Work Bench
You can buy small Work Bench from Lowe's, Home Depot, and Harbor Freight, but most are very light, have very light/weak frames, and thin work surfaces. Some people are forced to use their kitchen countertops due to limited space or budget. If you mount a Vise to a flimsy or unstable Work Bench it will often move when you try to torque on things, or if you try to remove things like taper pins. If you want a good Work Bench you can get a great one for $200.00 at Walmart/Sam's Club. Their Work Benches are named Seville Classic. They have 2" Wood tops and are heavy. I have 5 in my Shop/Classroom and they are indestructible and they have a few sizes for those with limited space.
-4"- 6" Vise.
You should bolt your Vise to your Work Bench and avoid clamp-on arrangements. You can get by with just a Harbor Freight Vise, but it may not last.
A Vise is a must for Installing/Removing a Barrel/Rail System, Installing/Removing a Receiver Extension, or Installing/Removing a Muzzle Device. I use the 4.5" Yost 445 Vises from Amazon for my Shop/Classroom Work Benches and the have held up great.
Yes, people can do the above without a Vise and Work Bench, but in my experience, you're not going to properly torque things down, or do clean work without a SOLID Work Bench and Vise.
-Vise Pads
You don't want to grab a gun part in a Vise without Vise Pads. There are many options for this, but most are not great. In my opinion the best ones are made at home. I use Trex Decking material and Leather. The alternative is 4.5" magnetic rubber Vise Blocks from Amazon.
-½" Foot Pound Clicker Torque Wrench
A Harbor Freight model will work here but not for a lifetime of uses. Do your research and buy the best one you can afford. The beam types will work, but they are not easy to deal with when cranking on an AR. Torque Wrenches remove the human element from a job and create consistency in the work. I can build an AR without one, but I still use a Torque Wrench.
-Tapco Multi Tool Green Armorers Wrench
Yes, Tapco. My second choice is the Magpul Armorers Wrench. It's the most versatile wrench when it comes to aftermarket parts like barrel nuts, muzzle devices, and receiver extensions. It isn't as comfortable to use as others, but it is a great wrench with a great warranty.
-Geissele Reaction Block or Kley Zion Buffer Tube Jig
Which one you select depends on what you will be working on. The Geissele ONLY works on Milspec Receiver Extensions. The Kley Zion works on Milspec AND Commercial Receiver Extensions. So if you only own Milspec Receiver Extensions, the Geissele is best. If you will be working on other people's AR's , you have no control on what they will bring you and I guarantee there will be Commercial Receiver Extensions you have to contend with.
-Wood Block
Good for supporting Barrel when using a Reaction Rod type tool, and good for hammering on FSB Taper Pins.
-Magpul BEV Block
The BEV Block does work as a Barrel Install/Removal Tool and a Magazine Well Block. If you only need a Magazine Well Block then a NoMar Magazine Block will be a cheaper alternative.
-File Sets – Good quality – Pilar and Needle
Sometimes you need a file a part to fit. If you are not patient, don't have a steady hands, or a precise eye, then DONT buy files. Remember to always file the cheaper part.
-Mark Brown Customs Gas Tube Gauge
-Needle Nose Pliers
-Schuster Sling Staking Tool
-2# Hammer
For removing Taper Pins
-1/2" Tip Punch
For removing Taper Pins
-Propane Torch
For removing stuck/seized parts. MAP Gas is better but propane will work. Don't get items cherry red.
-Canned Air
Turn it upside down and shoot liquid on parts you want to take apart or put together. Sometimes freezing a part is better than heat.
-1.4636 Forster .223 GO Headspace Gauge
-1.4736 Brownells 5.56 Field Headspace Gauge
This is made by Forster
-NoMar Rail Blocks or YHM Rail Blocks
These help alignment of Handguard Rails to the Upper Receiver when you are installing screws or tightening clamping bolts.
-½" Drive 2'+ Breaker Bar
For removing stuck Barrel Nuts.
-Firing Pin Protrusion gauge
-Midwest URR
...or the Geissele Reaction Rod or the Kley Zion Clone. If you use a Torque Wrench, the Reaction Rod type devices are fine for Upper Receiver assembly, but if you plan on tearing down AR Uppers or changing Rails you really don't want the Reaction Rod. The Reaction Rod is NOT good for trying to remove seized or overtorqued Barrel Nuts. Think about how the Reaction Rod works. It holds the Barrel in a static position but does NOT lock the Upper Receiver in place. If you have a stuck/seized Barrel Nut, the Upper Receiver will try to spin with the Barrel Nut. What keeps the Upper Receiver from spinning? The Barrel Index Pin does, and it will break off if you add too much force. Seen this countless times. This is why the Midwest URR is best tool for the job, it has a sail that locks into the charging handle slot, and teeth that lock into the barrel extension. These two features prevents the Upper Receiver and Barrel Extension from spinning. The Midwest URR is a gauge of sorts as well. If your upper is twisted, or the Barrel Extension is not timed properly, the tool won't go into the upper properly. I have a video showing this issue from a few weeks ago. Clamshell Upper Receiver Blocks are great for removing a stuck/seized Barrel Nut, but the Clamshell Blocks won't work on some billet Uppers Receivers, and you can't use heat on the Barrel Nut without melting the Clamshell Blocks.
-PRI Gas Block Punch Block
Great for installing Gas Tubes in a Low Profile Gas Block
-Wheeler Bench Block
Works great for installing Roll Pins in the Trigger Guard, Charging Handle, and Bolt Catch. It can be used for removing FSB Taper Pins, but I don't use it for that feature.
-Sinclair Bolt Vise
For removing Bolt Ejector and Reinstalling it.
-Sharpening Stone
For resurfacing/decking a Gas Key
-M-Guns MOACKS or Brownells - Gas Key Staking Jig
I suggest you avoid using striking tools to stake from the side of the Gas Key. Doing so will stress the Gas Key Screws.
-Bondhus Metric & SAE Ball Tip Allen Drivers
-Trigger Pull Gauge
-No-Mar or Brownells Hammer Drop/Dryfire Block
-.061-.250 Pin Gauge Set
That set will allow you to check the following:
Barrel Gas Ports, GO Spec for Bolt Firing Pin Hole (NO GO .070 requires a Taper Plug Pin Gage), GO Spec for Lower Receiver Hammer & Trigger Holes (NO GO.163 requires a Taper Plug Pin Gage), FCG Hammer & Trigger Holes, Carrier Key Bore, Cam Pin Bore, FSB/Gas Block Gas Tube Bore, GO Spec for Pivot & Takedown Bores (My NO GO Spec is .253, so that is outside the range of this Set).
You can't do the following with this set:
Gas Block/FSB Barrel Journal Bore, and Bolt Carrier 3 Bore.
-Selector/Safety Bore
-Brownells Screwdriver (Best) or Wheeler Gunsmith Screwdriver Set (Good)
The Brownells has a lifetime warranty which means if you break a bit, Brownells will replace it with no questions asked. Using Gunsmith Bits are a MUST if you don't want to hack up you AR, or your other firearms.
-Inch Pound Torque Wrench
I like the Wheeler FAT Wrench (Non Digital). The best prices are usually on Amazon. It does forward and reverse torque and clicks/breaks when it reaches it's setting. These are great for mounting Rails, Optics, and Gas Key Screws. I own 5 of these and they have held up at my Work Bench and in Classes.
-Cheap Steel & Brass 17pc Punch Set
You can get these from Amazon. The kits come with a Spring Loaded Center Punch which can be used for Castle Nut Staking, or "Field Staking" the top of the Carrier Key.
-Tape Measure
For measuring Buffer Springs.
-.080 Weed Eater Line
-4 to 8 Ounce Ball Peen Hammer
You don't want a roofing hammer or a claw hammer. A 4 Ounce Ball Peen is my favorite.
-Harbor Freight Rubber Mallet
Great for moving stubborn parts without damaging the material or finish.
-Harbor Freight Plastic Dead Blow Hammer
Great for moving stubborn parts without damaging the material or finish.
-Digital or Analog Calipers
These are for basic checking of parts and for doing a crude a Firing Pin Protrusion check. You can buy a budget models but you can't always trust them. In my opinion, it's better to have a Harbor Freight Caliper than nothing, but if you can afford it a good Mitutoyo will give a lifetime of reliable service.
-1.4646 Forster 5.56 GO Headspace Gauge (Brownells)
-Obsidian Arms Punch Set
-Little Crow Gunworks Bolt Catch Tool
-Brownells Magazine Catch Install Tool
-Brownells Chamber Reflector Tool
-Starrett 117c (Best) or Mayhew 5/32x4 1/2 punch (Good)
These are for staking the Castle Nut if you don't like using a Spring Loaded Center Punch
-Pivot Pin Install Tool
You can use an Exacto Knife, Magnet, ¼" Clevis Pin & Punch, Real Avid Tool, or other specialized Tools made for this job. The Real Avid is one of the easiest to use and cost effective.
-M-Guns Gas Tube Bender
-Brownells Gas Tube Wrench/Vise
-Geissele Hammer & Trigger Install Pin
This helps install an AR FCG, but can be used to Oil or Abrasive Lap the bores in an AR Lower Receiver if they are too small.
-AR General Purpose Brush
-Iosso AR Nylon Brush Set
I don't use bronze or stainless brushes for firearms.
-Rapid Rod (Best) or Steel USGI Sectioned Cleaning Rod (Good)
These are not for regular cleaning. They are great for cleaning in the field and for dislodging a stuck casing.
-One Piece Cleaning Rod and AR Upper Receiver Bore Guide
-Optics Cleaning Kit
-Basic Chemicals/Solvents
Aeroshell 64 (Barrel Nuts and Castle Nuts)
Rocksett or Loctite 271/272
Blue Stick Loctite (NOT the liquid type)
Cold Blue (Steel Touch-up)
Aluminum Black (Aluminum Touch-up)
Synthetic Grease (Assembly Lube)
Kroil Oil or PB Blaster (Seized Fasteners)
Steel Wool
Loctite 620 or Permatex Indian Gasket Shellac (Barrel Bedding and for Carrier/Gas Key Installs)
Lubricant
Bore Cleaner
Birchwood Casey Barricade (Great for external wipe downs)
Next step up...
-A SOLID Work Bench
You can buy small Work Bench from Lowe's, Home Depot, and Harbor Freight, but most are very light, have very light/weak frames, and thin work surfaces. Some people are forced to use their kitchen countertops due to limited space or budget. If you mount a Vise to a flimsy or unstable Work Bench it will often move when you try to torque on things, or if you try to remove things like taper pins. If you want a good Work Bench you can get a great one for $200.00 at Walmart/Sam's Club. Their Work Benches are named Seville Classic. They have 2" Wood tops and are heavy. I have 5 in my Shop/Classroom and they are indestructible and they have a few sizes for those with limited space.
-4"- 6" Vise.
You should bolt your Vise to your Work Bench and avoid clamp-on arrangements. You can get by with just a Harbor Freight Vise, but it may not last.
A Vise is a must for Installing/Removing a Barrel/Rail System, Installing/Removing a Receiver Extension, or Installing/Removing a Muzzle Device. I use the 4.5" Yost 445 Vises from Amazon for my Shop/Classroom Work Benches and the have held up great.
Yes, people can do the above without a Vise and Work Bench, but in my experience, you're not going to properly torque things down, or do clean work without a SOLID Work Bench and Vise.
-Vise Pads
You don't want to grab a gun part in a Vise without Vise Pads. There are many options for this, but most are not great. In my opinion the best ones are made at home. I use Trex Decking material and Leather. The alternative is 4.5" magnetic rubber Vise Blocks from Amazon.
-½" Foot Pound Clicker Torque Wrench
A Harbor Freight model will work here but not for a lifetime of uses. Do your research and buy the best one you can afford. The beam types will work, but they are not easy to deal with when cranking on an AR. Torque Wrenches remove the human element from a job and create consistency in the work. I can build an AR without one, but I still use a Torque Wrench.
-Tapco Multi Tool Green Armorers Wrench
Yes, Tapco. My second choice is the Magpul Armorers Wrench. It's the most versatile wrench when it comes to aftermarket parts like barrel nuts, muzzle devices, and receiver extensions. It isn't as comfortable to use as others, but it is a great wrench with a great warranty.
-Geissele Reaction Block or Kley Zion Buffer Tube Jig
Which one you select depends on what you will be working on. The Geissele ONLY works on Milspec Receiver Extensions. The Kley Zion works on Milspec AND Commercial Receiver Extensions. So if you only own Milspec Receiver Extensions, the Geissele is best. If you will be working on other people's AR's , you have no control on what they will bring you and I guarantee there will be Commercial Receiver Extensions you have to contend with.
-Wood Block
Good for supporting Barrel when using a Reaction Rod type tool, and good for hammering on FSB Taper Pins.
-Magpul BEV Block
The BEV Block does work as a Barrel Install/Removal Tool and a Magazine Well Block. If you only need a Magazine Well Block then a NoMar Magazine Block will be a cheaper alternative.
-File Sets – Good quality – Pilar and Needle
Sometimes you need a file a part to fit. If you are not patient, don't have a steady hands, or a precise eye, then DONT buy files. Remember to always file the cheaper part.
-Mark Brown Customs Gas Tube Gauge
-Needle Nose Pliers
-Schuster Sling Staking Tool
-2# Hammer
For removing Taper Pins
-1/2" Tip Punch
For removing Taper Pins
-Propane Torch
For removing stuck/seized parts. MAP Gas is better but propane will work. Don't get items cherry red.
-Canned Air
Turn it upside down and shoot liquid on parts you want to take apart or put together. Sometimes freezing a part is better than heat.
-1.4636 Forster .223 GO Headspace Gauge
-1.4736 Brownells 5.56 Field Headspace Gauge
This is made by Forster
-NoMar Rail Blocks or YHM Rail Blocks
These help alignment of Handguard Rails to the Upper Receiver when you are installing screws or tightening clamping bolts.
-½" Drive 2'+ Breaker Bar
For removing stuck Barrel Nuts.
-Firing Pin Protrusion gauge
-Midwest URR
...or the Geissele Reaction Rod or the Kley Zion Clone. If you use a Torque Wrench, the Reaction Rod type devices are fine for Upper Receiver assembly, but if you plan on tearing down AR Uppers or changing Rails you really don't want the Reaction Rod. The Reaction Rod is NOT good for trying to remove seized or overtorqued Barrel Nuts. Think about how the Reaction Rod works. It holds the Barrel in a static position but does NOT lock the Upper Receiver in place. If you have a stuck/seized Barrel Nut, the Upper Receiver will try to spin with the Barrel Nut. What keeps the Upper Receiver from spinning? The Barrel Index Pin does, and it will break off if you add too much force. Seen this countless times. This is why the Midwest URR is best tool for the job, it has a sail that locks into the charging handle slot, and teeth that lock into the barrel extension. These two features prevents the Upper Receiver and Barrel Extension from spinning. The Midwest URR is a gauge of sorts as well. If your upper is twisted, or the Barrel Extension is not timed properly, the tool won't go into the upper properly. I have a video showing this issue from a few weeks ago. Clamshell Upper Receiver Blocks are great for removing a stuck/seized Barrel Nut, but the Clamshell Blocks won't work on some billet Uppers Receivers, and you can't use heat on the Barrel Nut without melting the Clamshell Blocks.
-PRI Gas Block Punch Block
Great for installing Gas Tubes in a Low Profile Gas Block
-Wheeler Bench Block
Works great for installing Roll Pins in the Trigger Guard, Charging Handle, and Bolt Catch. It can be used for removing FSB Taper Pins, but I don't use it for that feature.
-Sinclair Bolt Vise
For removing Bolt Ejector and Reinstalling it.
-Sharpening Stone
For resurfacing/decking a Gas Key
-M-Guns MOACKS or Brownells - Gas Key Staking Jig
I suggest you avoid using striking tools to stake from the side of the Gas Key. Doing so will stress the Gas Key Screws.
-Bondhus Metric & SAE Ball Tip Allen Drivers
-Trigger Pull Gauge
-No-Mar or Brownells Hammer Drop/Dryfire Block
-.061-.250 Pin Gauge Set
That set will allow you to check the following:
Barrel Gas Ports, GO Spec for Bolt Firing Pin Hole (NO GO .070 requires a Taper Plug Pin Gage), GO Spec for Lower Receiver Hammer & Trigger Holes (NO GO.163 requires a Taper Plug Pin Gage), FCG Hammer & Trigger Holes, Carrier Key Bore, Cam Pin Bore, FSB/Gas Block Gas Tube Bore, GO Spec for Pivot & Takedown Bores (My NO GO Spec is .253, so that is outside the range of this Set).
You can't do the following with this set:
Gas Block/FSB Barrel Journal Bore, and Bolt Carrier 3 Bore.
-Selector/Safety Bore
- Messages
- 5,745
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- 18,042
Fixit Sticks are pretty handy. You can buy a set, or piece together things you need. They fit nicely in a range bag too.
store.fixitsticks.com
Hunting and Shooting Tools | Fix It Sticks
Fix It Sticks has the portable, precise, high-performance tools you need to fix and fine-tune your rifles, pistols, shotguns, bows and crossbows.
store.fixitsticks.com
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Check out Squirrel Daddy. Starter punches, gas block punches, barrel blocks, receiver blocks and more. Most, if not all, made in the USA and many by the guy himself. Small operation, most prices include shipping. If you reload, get his de-capping pins, best in the business.
Looking at one of these for barrel work: ReactionRod
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If you want a really good dead-blow hammer fro driving pins, get one of these: https://www.magna-matic-direct.com/products/precision-steel-dead-blow-hammer.html
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I don't use a vise. I have a large vise. However, I found two large heavy c-clamps, two steel blocks and my cast iron bench work better and for any flat top receiver, 223 or 308.
I use a set of roll pin starter punches and regular roll pin punches. Nothing high dollar, nothing on an AR requires much to drive pins. I do have a bent roll pin punch for the bolt release. Just a cheap punch that was modified with a hammer.
I use a set of roll pin starter punches and regular roll pin punches. Nothing high dollar, nothing on an AR requires much to drive pins. I do have a bent roll pin punch for the bolt release. Just a cheap punch that was modified with a hammer.
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