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I have a M-LOK rail on my AR pistol so I have a Magpul light mount and have an inexpensive Streamlight TLR-1s light. If I have it in my vehicle then I take my sling off. I have my mount on the left side but I am thinking of buying a tape switch and mount my light on the right side instead.
 
First thing is to decide how far you want to cast a beam. Guessing not far on a pistol type build. Do you have a front sight base? I've seen several guys run pistol lights at 12 o'clock on ARs w/o front sight bases. I use a Streamlight ProTac 1 with a tale switch. Light on the right, switch at 12 o'clock.
 
Streamlight TLR-7 & 8 fit Glocks really well....I've used the big TLR-1 & 2 on carbines because they're not super expensive and have a lot of throw. I'm also really liking OLights too.

Having a laser as a back up with your light is a good idea, and I've heard LEOs talk about using a laser on bad guys to help de-escalate a potential deadly force situation.
 
TLR-1 would be my first choice on a pistol, but my HD AR has a "normal" tac light on it (Fenix, I have a SureFire G2 LED somewhere, but I haven't seen it since we moved over a month ago, when it turns up it goes on the gun, wifey can have the Fenix as her purse light) - I actually like this setup more than the TLR-1 (which I used to use on an AR) because of where the light activation button sits compared to my thumb.

AR15 pistol setup (1).png

AR15 pistol setup (2).png

AR15 pistol setup (3).png

I mounted the light ring between the front sight and the rail sling adapter - my thumb rides on the RSA which puts the button on the tail cap of the light in the perfect spot. Light does momentary or click on.
 
The light needs to be as capable as the firearm its being placed on.

In other words, don't put a pistol light on a rifle, it doesn't have the throw or distance to PID that a rifle is capable of hitting.

I'd go with a Surefire Dual-Fuel or Modlite PLH or OKW.

For a pistol light, go with the brightest you can find...that usually means Streamlight or Surefire.

Please do not start with the...if the light is overly bright it will cause you problems in small areas.

I never yet had anyone say...wow, I see too much...or I wish my light was dimmer.
 
Pistol strong hand, flashlight support hand reverse hold the way they taught in the military.


Seriously, though...

Bedside pistol, 92FS A1 has a Streamlight TLR on it.
 
If your pistol has a rail, I recommend the Streamlight TLR-1. It's a very good value $$ and the switch is easier to work than the Surefire X300 (which the Streamlight is a copy of). Plus it has an integral rail mount, so no need to buy additional parts. I've had both the Streamlight and the Surefire and no regrets selling the Surefire.

I no longer have a light on my AR because it was getting too heavy with all the junk on it.
 
First thing is to decide how far you want to cast a beam. Guessing not far on a pistol type build. Do you have a front sight base? I've seen several guys run pistol lights at 12 o'clock on ARs w/o front sight bases. I use a Streamlight ProTac 1 with a tale switch. Light on the right, switch at 12 o'clock.
Get a Mossie Mount from Arisaka and you can run at 12 even WITH an FSB. The Briefcase Monster has an Olight PL-1 mini positioned for thumb control as a dazzler, and a Princeton Switch Rail on top of an upside-down Lasermax riding a Mossie as a "get around" light.
 
If your pistol has a rail, I recommend the Streamlight TLR-1. It's a very good value $$ and the switch is easier to work than the Surefire X300 (which the Streamlight is a copy of). Plus it has an integral rail mount, so no need to buy additional parts. I've had both the Streamlight and the Surefire and no regrets selling the Surefire.

I no longer have a light on my AR because it was getting too heavy with all the junk on it.

I run both of these lights and find them to be great on pistols and AR pistols. I agree the TLR-1easier to manipulate. X300 feels more burly to me but I'm not worried about either getting the job done.
 
Steve, I will probably be your first on that... light-sensitive eyes can be as much a curse in some situations as they are a gift in others. :(

There are techniques to dim a light, but there are none to make it brighter.

Going from inside a building where the light is covering very well, to outside where the vastness swallows up even some of the most brightest lights because their beam is not well designed...there's more to the light than lumens.
 
Personally, my dream light for a "top-rail" AR would be something like the frontal profile of a TLR but the length of a Protac or G2, with an integral front-sight just behind the laser emitter.
 

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