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Recommend me a big revolver caliber
- Thread Starter moroza
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.500 S&W Magnum
A colleague nicknamed his Viagra.
www.americanrifleman.org
A colleague nicknamed his Viagra.
An Official Journal Of The NRA | The .500 S&W Magnum: Most Powerful Handgun Round In The World
In 2002, Smith & Wesson developed the .500 S&W Magnum, the most powerful handgun round in the world. Here's how it was done.
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We took a 10 year-old up in the Blue Mountains one year for our August archery hunt for elk. (Camping trip for him.) Never before having "lived in the woods", he was awe-struck and full of questions, especially about Bears.
We kept assuring him that even though there was a very good chance he might see one, that he should not be afraid, and the Bear would be more scared of a human than vice-versa. He went on to ask about guns that might be adequate for Bear.
Coming down the trail back to camp one day, he stopped and picked up a piece of brass. He handed it to my partner for inspection, and wiping the dirt off the headstamp revealed it was a .454 Casull.
My partner handed it back to the youngster saying, "Now THAT'S a guy REALLY afraid of Bears."
We kept assuring him that even though there was a very good chance he might see one, that he should not be afraid, and the Bear would be more scared of a human than vice-versa. He went on to ask about guns that might be adequate for Bear.
Coming down the trail back to camp one day, he stopped and picked up a piece of brass. He handed it to my partner for inspection, and wiping the dirt off the headstamp revealed it was a .454 Casull.
My partner handed it back to the youngster saying, "Now THAT'S a guy REALLY afraid of Bears."
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For people with weak hand and wrist strength.
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Hello @moroza ---
You don't need a 357 since you already have and like your 10mm. The most powerful loads in .357 mag and the most powerful loads in 10mm are comparable. To get more power you need .41mag up. You mentioned not reloading. I think that cuts out .41mag and .480.
The SW.500 represents a huge jump in power from .357/10mm. Most people would suggest getting good with a .44 or .45 revolver before taking on a SW.500. In addition, the SW.500 doesnt shoot multiple calibers. It just doesn't have the versatility of other options.The SW.460 is good for shooting big game at distances of 100 yards or somewhat more. SW ad I saw says you could shoot out to 200 yards with no correction for bullet drop. The SW.460 is very heavy and highly specialized. The ammo is very expensive.
I would suggest that the basic decision for most people will be between the .44sp/.44mag/.44mag+P/.44mag+P+ series and the .45Colt/.45+P/.454 Cassull)/((SW.460)) series. In power range, the .44 and .45 Colt power ranges are roughly equivalent. not counting the .460. The 45 series has the advantage of fatter bullets. But in 45 I couldnt find much or even anything in the middle of the range-- about 800 - 1000 ft lbs. That matters because its the upper end of what I can shoot with one hand, with strong or weak hand. Garrett has convinced me that revolver SD against bears requires being able to control the gun with one hand and do fast followup shots. (Bear attacks are often so fast the bear is on you before you even have your gun out and maybe is chewing on one arm.) Garrett designs his bear loads as fat deeply penetrating hardcast flat nosed bullets with exactly the power I had found was the most I could control easily with one hand. These are either high power .44 sp loads or low power .44mag loads. https://www.garrettcartridges.com/defensive.htm
Most over-the-counter .44mag ammo ranges from 1,000 to 1200. The ,44 mag ammo sold by various other ammo manufacturers as bear loads also usually are 800-1,000 ft lbs. Deer hunting ammo is usually 1,100-1200. I not only need both hands for it, even in the heavy guns I shoot, but it stings my hands too. For shooting just a few shots or hunting I don't mind. but I wear light cotton mittens in practicing. YMMV.
The Ruger Redhawk is also available in.44mag and 45 (but not Cassull). However, lots of luck getting grips that fit your hands; unlike for the Super Redhawk, there are few grip options.
The Colt. Anaconda 44mag can also shoot the +P stuff. But it tends to cost twice as much or more than the guns mentioned for comparable quality.
Some people believe that the best handgun self defense against bears possible requires as much power as possible, with size of bullet and power mattering more than being able to shoot one handed or do fast follow-up shots. These people may choose a .454 Cassull or even a SW 500 for bear self defense.
If you are going for a DA revolver most of us stick to Colt, SW, and Ruger. Some people have a Taurus they like. Many of us say friends do not advise friends to buy a Taurus.
Two obvious DA revolvers to consider are the Ruger Super Redhawk in .44mag and in .454 Cassull. The .454 Cassull version comes in 7.5" only. The .44mag version comes in 7.5" and 9.5". Both have slots in the receiver that let you mount a scope on the frame without removing the rear sight. The .44 version lets you shoot .44sp, .44mag, .44.mag+P, and .44mag+P+. (Most .44mag revolvers including SWs can't handle the +P stuff.) The Cassull version lets you shoot .45 Colt, .45 Colt+P, and .454Cassull. The low power end of 44sp and .45 Colt are less powerful than your 10 mm. The high end of each series is so powerful that most people can't shoot it accurately because they flinch. One approach is to just shoot one or two shots of the really hot stuff at a time and spend nearly all your practice on less hot stuff. That helps you avoid developing a flinch.
SW has many fine .44 mag revolvers. And they usually have lighter DA trigger pulls than the Rugers. However they can't shoot .44mag+P. And if there are scope mounts they either require removing the back sights or the scope is mounted on the barrel, which unbalanced the gun. For most people, by the way, a scope on a handgun is no advantage shooting from offhand. You need a more stable situation for the scope to be useful. The Super Redhawk have grooves in the frame that allow attaching or detaching a scope without interfering with the rear sight. And the scope is positioned almost over your hands instead of on the barrel where it off balances the gun.
You don't need a 357 since you already have and like your 10mm. The most powerful loads in .357 mag and the most powerful loads in 10mm are comparable. To get more power you need .41mag up. You mentioned not reloading. I think that cuts out .41mag and .480.
The SW.500 represents a huge jump in power from .357/10mm. Most people would suggest getting good with a .44 or .45 revolver before taking on a SW.500. In addition, the SW.500 doesnt shoot multiple calibers. It just doesn't have the versatility of other options.The SW.460 is good for shooting big game at distances of 100 yards or somewhat more. SW ad I saw says you could shoot out to 200 yards with no correction for bullet drop. The SW.460 is very heavy and highly specialized. The ammo is very expensive.
I would suggest that the basic decision for most people will be between the .44sp/.44mag/.44mag+P/.44mag+P+ series and the .45Colt/.45+P/.454 Cassull)/((SW.460)) series. In power range, the .44 and .45 Colt power ranges are roughly equivalent. not counting the .460. The 45 series has the advantage of fatter bullets. But in 45 I couldnt find much or even anything in the middle of the range-- about 800 - 1000 ft lbs. That matters because its the upper end of what I can shoot with one hand, with strong or weak hand. Garrett has convinced me that revolver SD against bears requires being able to control the gun with one hand and do fast followup shots. (Bear attacks are often so fast the bear is on you before you even have your gun out and maybe is chewing on one arm.) Garrett designs his bear loads as fat deeply penetrating hardcast flat nosed bullets with exactly the power I had found was the most I could control easily with one hand. These are either high power .44 sp loads or low power .44mag loads. https://www.garrettcartridges.com/defensive.htm
Most over-the-counter .44mag ammo ranges from 1,000 to 1200. The ,44 mag ammo sold by various other ammo manufacturers as bear loads also usually are 800-1,000 ft lbs. Deer hunting ammo is usually 1,100-1200. I not only need both hands for it, even in the heavy guns I shoot, but it stings my hands too. For shooting just a few shots or hunting I don't mind. but I wear light cotton mittens in practicing. YMMV.
The Ruger Redhawk is also available in.44mag and 45 (but not Cassull). However, lots of luck getting grips that fit your hands; unlike for the Super Redhawk, there are few grip options.
The Colt. Anaconda 44mag can also shoot the +P stuff. But it tends to cost twice as much or more than the guns mentioned for comparable quality.
Some people believe that the best handgun self defense against bears possible requires as much power as possible, with size of bullet and power mattering more than being able to shoot one handed or do fast follow-up shots. These people may choose a .454 Cassull or even a SW 500 for bear self defense.
If you are going for a DA revolver most of us stick to Colt, SW, and Ruger. Some people have a Taurus they like. Many of us say friends do not advise friends to buy a Taurus.
Two obvious DA revolvers to consider are the Ruger Super Redhawk in .44mag and in .454 Cassull. The .454 Cassull version comes in 7.5" only. The .44mag version comes in 7.5" and 9.5". Both have slots in the receiver that let you mount a scope on the frame without removing the rear sight. The .44 version lets you shoot .44sp, .44mag, .44.mag+P, and .44mag+P+. (Most .44mag revolvers including SWs can't handle the +P stuff.) The Cassull version lets you shoot .45 Colt, .45 Colt+P, and .454Cassull. The low power end of 44sp and .45 Colt are less powerful than your 10 mm. The high end of each series is so powerful that most people can't shoot it accurately because they flinch. One approach is to just shoot one or two shots of the really hot stuff at a time and spend nearly all your practice on less hot stuff. That helps you avoid developing a flinch.
SW has many fine .44 mag revolvers. And they usually have lighter DA trigger pulls than the Rugers. However they can't shoot .44mag+P. And if there are scope mounts they either require removing the back sights or the scope is mounted on the barrel, which unbalanced the gun. For most people, by the way, a scope on a handgun is no advantage shooting from offhand. You need a more stable situation for the scope to be useful. The Super Redhawk have grooves in the frame that allow attaching or detaching a scope without interfering with the rear sight. And the scope is positioned almost over your hands instead of on the barrel where it off balances the gun.
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These are just my observations, worth what you paid for them. I like heavy for caliber bullets propelled by slower burning powders. I feel the recoil more in my shoulders than in my wrist. Up to a point. I find the full house loads in the 454, 460 and 500 to be more than I care for. My 41 Mag and 44 Mag are tamed by the use of Houge Mono grips. The 41 can still have a bit of a bite because it's such a fast bullet in a light gun and in that regard isn't one I care to shoot all day so to speak. I really like my Plain Jane Ruger Redhawk 44 Mag. It's 7 1/2" barrel points very naturally for me and with the 300gr TC bullets at about 1200 fps is very accurate. The 480 Ruger is a de-tuned 475 Linebaugh to have less punishing recoil. Still my load is a 410gr WFN bullet at 1200 fps and feels like the 300gr 44 mag recoil but in a heaver gun. I do have a scope on the super Redhawk 480 and will caution to go no bigger than a 2X scope if you go this way. For me any higher magnification makes it too hard to look thru for field use.
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Actually, SW has a number of .44mags that are so light or barrels are so short that I think they probably work a whole lot better limited to .44sp:
L frame 5 shot .44mag 34.2 oz. Barrel 2.75". SS. Model 69
L frame 5 shot .44mag 37.4 Barrel 4.25. SS. Model 69
N frame 6 shot .44mag 42.8 4.13. SS
N frame 6 shot .44mag 26.3 4.13 Scandium. Model 329PD
N frame 6 shot .44mag 40.2 3.0. SS
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I liked my 460V (.460 mag with 5" barrel - it is actually about a 4" barrel with a built in comp that you can switch out between two different inserts).
The nice thing about the .460 Mag is that you can shoot .45LC, .454 Casull and .460 Mag. You can have the cylinder cut for moon clips and shoot .45 ACP/.45 Super/..460 Rowland too.
It is a big heavy powerful revolver, and with the comp is very controllable - much more so than my 329PD (Scandium .44 mag).
I sold it because what I really wanted was a .45 ACP revolver (and I got one) that was lightweight and handy. But if I were to go where there are polar bears or other similar large dangerous game, the 460V would be what I would choose to have as backup. You can also get a lever action in .460 or .500 mag.
The nice thing about the .460 Mag is that you can shoot .45LC, .454 Casull and .460 Mag. You can have the cylinder cut for moon clips and shoot .45 ACP/.45 Super/..460 Rowland too.
It is a big heavy powerful revolver, and with the comp is very controllable - much more so than my 329PD (Scandium .44 mag).
I sold it because what I really wanted was a .45 ACP revolver (and I got one) that was lightweight and handy. But if I were to go where there are polar bears or other similar large dangerous game, the 460V would be what I would choose to have as backup. You can also get a lever action in .460 or .500 mag.
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44 mag is a solid choice plus plenty of ammo choices and if you want to reload for it you can load mild to wild lots of bullet choices ,
going bigger ammo choices dwindle down and cost goes up , I guess it depends on what you want and how often / much you want to shoot it
going bigger ammo choices dwindle down and cost goes up , I guess it depends on what you want and how often / much you want to shoot it
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I don't know much at all about big caliber revolvers but since you prefer 10 gauge that's a really rare preference so I would be looking at bigger, not middle of the road.
If I were you I would search YouTube for hickok45 videos on those large calibers revolvers. I would guess he has videos on everything from 500 S&w on down. Seeing him shooting and giving his impressions relative to other guns I bet you would learn everything you need to know.
Edit: here is a 500 video fyi
Also I recall a thread last month about some 500 S&W early models exploding. So you may want to look for that thread if considering a used one of those.
If I were you I would search YouTube for hickok45 videos on those large calibers revolvers. I would guess he has videos on everything from 500 S&w on down. Seeing him shooting and giving his impressions relative to other guns I bet you would learn everything you need to know.
Edit: here is a 500 video fyi
Also I recall a thread last month about some 500 S&W early models exploding. So you may want to look for that thread if considering a used one of those.
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Use soft rubber grips, not wood or plastic or horn or whatever other beautiful but pain causing substances people make grips from.
One of the marvelous things about revolvers is when the gun and grips fit you, the revolver is like an extension of your hand(s). And it points automatically. Usually the grips on the gun don't quite fit you. If you handle a revolver and the grips don't fit you, check availability of many after market grips before buying. Ruger Redhawk has few after market options. If the ones on it don't fit you the odds are good there's nothing you can do about it. Ruger Super Redhawks, on the other hand, take the same grips as the GP100, their very popular .357, so there are many grips available. For SW you need to know the model number, the frame size, J, K/L, N, X, and whether the grips are for a round butt or a square butt grip frame. K and L, medium, take the same size grips. There are usually plenty of alternate grips available for the round grip variants if rack frame size. Alas not for the square butt frames.
One of the marvelous things about revolvers is when the gun and grips fit you, the revolver is like an extension of your hand(s). And it points automatically. Usually the grips on the gun don't quite fit you. If you handle a revolver and the grips don't fit you, check availability of many after market grips before buying. Ruger Redhawk has few after market options. If the ones on it don't fit you the odds are good there's nothing you can do about it. Ruger Super Redhawks, on the other hand, take the same grips as the GP100, their very popular .357, so there are many grips available. For SW you need to know the model number, the frame size, J, K/L, N, X, and whether the grips are for a round butt or a square butt grip frame. K and L, medium, take the same size grips. There are usually plenty of alternate grips available for the round grip variants if rack frame size. Alas not for the square butt frames.
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Hickok is a big man. Well over 6 feet. For perspective.
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Yea I think he said on one video he is 6' 8". He stopped short of shooting all five rounds due to pain in the hand it looks like.
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I think he did that with .454 Cassull too.
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I know there are multiple options, some quite wild, but for me, the .44 Mag does as much as I need it to, and as little as I need it to, stoked with .44 Specials.
I shot a .460 a while back. I did not notice any more recoil, but I did notice a more nuclear-equivalent muzzle flash.
I shot a .460 a while back. I did not notice any more recoil, but I did notice a more nuclear-equivalent muzzle flash.
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Yes - I saw muzzle flash from the comp during the day. Lot less recoil than my 329PD, but then the 329PD is the second worse handgun for recoil that I have ever shot.
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I have always wanted a 329PD, that was until I got to shoot one. Then I realized I need one, I really don't have much purpose for one but that's not an issue
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