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It's absolutely not both. But both are acceptable because of the ol' common vernacular thingy.

The designers name, the rifles namesake, has no emphasis on the second syllable. So like the Americans pronounce garage, Vs the British pronouncing garage, it's the same thing.
 
It's absolutely not both. But both are acceptable because of the ol' common vernacular thingy.

The designers name, the rifles namesake, has no emphasis on the second syllable. So like the Americans pronounce garage, Vs the British pronouncing garage, it's the same thing.
The Brits say "rubbish". You misspelt "garbage".





J/K
 
I have a question though. What is the proper pronunciation of Garand? Guh-rand or Gairund?
I've always pronounced it Gairund, as I was taught that was the correct pronunciation and the way Garand pronounced his own name.

I read sometime later that the mis-pronunciation of Guh-rand became so popular that it became acceptable, and even Garand was ok with it. It's still a mid-pronunciation though. :)
 
It's absolutely not both. But both are acceptable because of the ol' common vernacular thingy.

The designers name, the rifles namesake, has no emphasis on the second syllable. So like the Americans pronounce garage, Vs the British pronouncing garage, it's the same thing.
CMP has a video on their website from the Garand Collectors Association where they discuss this topic. According to them, when discussing the designer, they use the proper pronunciation of Gair-und. As for the rifle either pronunciation is correct but Guh-rand is the more common. Just passing this on. Don't shoot the messenger.

-E-
 
CMP has a video on their website from the Garand Collectors Association where they discuss this topic. According to them, when discussing the designer, they use the proper pronunciation of Gair-und. As for the rifle either pronunciation is correct but Guh-rand is the more common. Just passing this on. Don't shoot the messenger.

-E-
Yup, that's what i meant about common vernacular.
 
The adjustable gas plug does not reduce the recoil, it only reduces the op rod gas pressure. The major cause of recoil, the bullet and gasses exiting the barrel, is the same with or without the vented or hollow plugs.
It wouldn't seem so, would it? The guys in the vid stated it is the only reason I mentioned it. The way I see it, recoil comes from getting that 150 grain bullet moving to 2500+ ft/sec in that 24". The op-rod hitting the back of it's stroke perhaps ads a little to the recoil too.
 
Today the CMP offered to upgrade the Field Grade I ordered in June to a Service Grade. They are out of or running very low on Field Grades. I took the Service Grade upgrade.

I also got order confirmation yesterday for the Expert Grade in .308 that I ordered in mid November. It's possible that I might be holding two Garands in a few days. ???

-E-
 
Today the CMP offered to upgrade the Field Grade I ordered in June to a Service Grade. They are out of or running very low on Field Grades. I took the Service Grade upgrade.

I also got got order confirmation for the Expert Grade in .308 that I ordered in mid November. It's possible that I might be holding two Garands in a few days. ???

-E-
Oh GOODIE GOODIE!!
 
Can someone make some recommendations for some front and rear match sights? Links will help. Not sure which ones to buy.
NM hooded aperture allows for 1/2 minute adjustments for elevation and windage. NM rear sights have to be
properly fitted to eliminate 'wobble' of rear sight. NM front sights come in different widths. As you get older
you need a wider front sight. I have 2 Miso lenses installed on a NM rear sight hood. One on a Garand and
one on a M1A. Not legal for "As Issued" matches but legal for "Service Rifle" match.
 
Can someone make some recommendations for some front and rear match sights? Links will help. Not sure which ones to buy.
The only difference in match sights is smaller or interchangeable aperture in the rear, 1/2x1/2 moa adjustment, narrower front blade width and tighter tolerance if fitted.

Most people prefer a wider front sight, like the original. The 1/2 moa adjustments don't improve much unless you have a match prepped rifle. The improvement in a typical rifle is the smaller aperture.

AmmoGarand has reproduction NM sights. The complete set is about $100 on eBay or their site. The do require fitting and quality is ok.

Original USGI NM sights can be found once in awhile at places like ebay or CMP forums. Just the rear set will be about $200. Watch out for fakes or older commercial versions.

Another option if you want to just to change the aperture size is find a original NM non-hooded aperture. They are marked NM with the aperture size.

Remember, the hooded rear sight aperture requires the NM/2A rear sight base that is also 1/2 moa threaded for the NM windage knob. If you try to put the hooded aperture on a standard or NM marked base, you will likely not be able to get a 100 yard zero.
 
Some Garands came with scopes.
I've been toying with the idea of optics mounting on my Garand. According to the NRA high power rule book;
3.1 Service Rifle—As issued by the U.S. Armed Forces, or the same type and caliber of commercially manufactured rifle, having not less than 4 1/2 pound trigger pull, with standard type stock and standard type leather or web sling. External alterations to the assembled arm will not be allowed. The application of synthetic coating, which includes those containing powdered metal, to the interior of the stock to improve bedding is authorized provided the coating does not interfere with the function or operation of safety features. The front and rear sights must be the standard or National Match design, but may vary in dimensions or rear sight aperture and front sight blade. The rear sight aperture may be hooded. The internal parts of the rifle may be specially fitted and include alterations that will improve the functioning and accuracy of the arm, provided such alterations in no way interfere with the proper functioning of the safety devices as manufactured. The rifle must be so modified as to be incapable of automatic fire without removing, replacing or altering parts. The gas system must be fully operational.
The rifle may have an optical sight (reflective sights are considered optical sights) with a maximum of 4.5X are permitted. Only commercially manufactured scopes that were produced with a maximum magnification of 4.5X and that have a maximum objective lens of 34mm may be used. If an optical sight is used, the same optical sight must be used in all stages of a course of fire (changing sights is not permitted). The centerline of an optical sight shall be no higher than 3.5 inches above the centerline of the bore.

I found this way to mount a IER scope or red dot.

 
History (NM Garand)

As for building one.....IMHO, ask a competent gunsmith. Bedding is involved (something that I don't really want to try). And, speaking of the NM sight base.....yeah......some will heat and peen the rails to get it tight. And, don't forget to remove the metal liner in the front handguard (actually, there is a little more to that). Then, never pick it up by the frt handguard, never.
Know_Your_Limitations.png

Sorry, but I can't remember where I saw the "build techniques involved" to accomplish the goal.

Or

You might just decide to move to the M1a?

Aloha, Mark
 
I was looking over my M1 last night. She was born in May of 1944. Then this morning, I found this video.

Yeah....it's been 77 years. I wonder....if only my rifle could talk.

Aloha, Mark
 
I was looking over my M1 last night. She was born in May of 1944. Then this morning, I found this video.

Yeah....it's been 77 years. I wonder....if only my rifle could talk.

Aloha, Mark
Do the receiver/barrel match years?

The American Hero's Channel, "AHC", has some great programs on WWII. Tons of original footage and archived interviews with those who were there.
An incredible read for those of us who want more depth to the M-1 is "The Rifle". It's fairly new on the market.
 
Do the receiver/barrel match years?
Actually....
That particular rifle has undergone a "going over" to make things as "correct" as far as I could/can look up and confirm stuff. It started as a service grade CMP rifle (luck of the draw). Yes, the barrel and receiver along with some other smaller parts were correct, to begin with. BUT.....as needed, other small parts were taken and bought from maybe 5 or more other rifles (all were CMP rifles). So then, it's got the "correct" barrel, op rod (w/relief cut), rear bar sight, gas plug, trigger group, etc....

IIRC....my research was done with the help from the books by Scott A. Duff.
And of course, there is the second book.

There are many other books available and "some" details might/may vary.

Good luck to anyone attempting to make their rifle....."correct".

Aloha, Mark
 

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