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I have a brand new Trim Mate II that refuses to trim consistently :mad:. I'll get it set, then after just a few cases, it starts cutting shorter and shorter. I finally gave up in disgust and went back to my Frankford Arsenal prep center, a bit harder on the fingers, but at least I get consistent results. Is this a common issue with the RCBS unit, or am I just being an idiot o_O? Thanks.
 
Perhaps a "Trim PRO" ?? (I think the trim MATE is the multi-head "finisher" that deals with primer pockets, chamfering necks, etc.). On the Trim PRO, there are THREE areas that need to be cinched down with set-screws and the like:

1) The three black plastic knurled screws that actually hold the engine to the platform (this is your first area of adjustment and dictates the initial "crude" setting for whatever case you are dealing with).

2) The larger "stop ring" on the shaft of the lathe (your second area of adjustment that gets you very close to the length you are striving for).

3) The thinner "stop ring" that is your fine-tune, and is in tandem with the larger stop ring.

Verify all these are solidly locked down. When I have experienced "travel" (as I call it, resulting in cases being produced shorter and shorter during the process), it is most commonly #1 that I have neglected to tighten sufficiently. One or more of the three knurled hand-screws holding the entire engine assembly to its platform has not been cinched. (This takes only moderately firm finger pressure and I have never had to put pliers or anything else on them, but all three must be anchored with that finger "torque"). Rarely it is the stop rings that are "traveling" due to insufficient tightening of the allen set screws.

The "malfunction" is (or was) always at my end. NOT characteristic of the tool at all.
 
Last Edited:
Perhaps a "Trim PRO" ?? (I think the trim MATE is the multi-head "finisher" that deals with primer pockets, chamfering necks, etc.). On the Trim PRO, there are THREE areas that need to be cinched down with set-screws and the like:

1) The three black plastic knurled screws that actually hold the engine to the platform (this is your first area of adjustment and dictates the initial "crude" setting for whatever case you are dealing with).

2) The larger "stop ring" on the shaft of the lathe (your second area of adjustment that gets you very close to the length you are striving for).

3) The thinner "stop ring" that is your fine-tune, and is in tandem with the larger stop ring.

Verify all these are solidly locked down. When I have experienced "travel" (as I call it, resulting in cases being produced shorter and shorter during the process), it is most commonly #1 that I have neglected to tighten sufficiently. One or more of the three knurled hand-screws holding the entire engine assembly to its platform has not been cinched. (This takes only moderately firm finger pressure and I have never had to put pliers or anything else on them, but all three must be anchored with that finger "torque"). Rarely it is the stop rings that are "traveling" due to insufficient tightening of the allen set screws.

The "malfunction" is (or was) always at my end. NOT characteristic of the tool at all.

Yeah, Trim PRO 2, guess I should take the time to read the box instead of trusting my memory :oops:. We part ways at 1, mine done NOT have those screws you're referring too, maybe because it's a 2 instead of the earlier version? Or are they on the bottom? I have mine screwed to a piece of plywood so I can clamp it to my bench when needed, so I haven't looked at the underside. That said, the shell holder head does flex, I assumed it was designed that way to allow it to self center, but I guess I better pull it off the plywood and check it out. Will do so and get back to you, thanks.
 
Yup. mine's an older one (when these Sweet Peas first came out I couldn't wait to quit being a galley slave behind the hand-cranked Forster).

Um...if you overlooked reading the box is there a remote possibility the instructions received your equal attention?

(Yeah, I'm being the whiney-voice wife in the passenger seat asking you to vicariously cut off your KAY-HONIES by pulling into a gas station and ask directions.)
 
Yup. mine's an older one (when these Sweet Peas first came out I couldn't wait to quit being a galley slave behind the hand-cranked Forster).

Um...if you overlooked reading the box is there a remote possibility the instructions received your equal attention?

(Yeah, I'm being the whiney-voice wife in the passenger seat asking you to vicariously cut off your KAY-HONIES by pulling into a gas station and ask directions.)

Fair question, but yes, I did read the instructions BEFORE all else had failed ;). That said, color me stupid, mine has a single Allen head bolt holding both the headstock and tailstock to the frame, the headstock bolt, the one that has the shellholder, was loose, not even finger tight. Guess I should have looked it over more carefully when I first got it, like I said, I assumed it was meant to be that way, and yes, this proves, yet again, what happens when you assume something :oops:. I haven't given it a test run, but I'm betting the problem is solved, so my thanks. Later.
 
I always wonder why people post stuff like this. The first thing i would do is call up RCBS customer service. They are great.
To get different ideas and opinions?

I agree a lot of these reloading companies have great customer service! Some times after hours or weekends can delay an answer though, and if you're set on getting things squared away quickly often a thread on a forum like this can solve a problem, or give other ideas and views especially if someone has had to deal with a similar issue in the past.

It's also a great learning source for others who read about these things.
 
I like RCBS products and love their customer service. Like every manufacturer they make certain products people do not like.
Fo me it is their rife/pistol hand case trimmer. It hascthe step up collets that hold your case. I hate it.
I like the Lyman hand case trimmer that hasvthe cam lock case set up. I have two of these, one to trim by hand and the other I had the handle taken out & drilled & tapped for 10/32 and then took a small piece of six sided steel. Hand it turned down and threaded to 10/32. Screw it in and hook up my cordless screw driver to it and go.
 
I always wonder why people post stuff like this. The first thing i would do is call up RCBS customer service. They are great.

Wonder no more. I am HOH and I do not call for help so email is my only option, IMHO email might as well be named "snail mail"...
Plus, on forums with posts like this help me enormously with a way to interact with Gurus for further questions that will always arise.

I thank @ageingstudent, @Dyjital, @DizzyJ and @Certaindeaf because they are walking encyclopedias in the reloading world!!!:s0104:

CD has his own hilarious twist on things so a follow up may be needed to get the real dope.;)
 
Wonder no more. I am HOH and I do not call for help so email is my only option, IMHO email might as well be named "snail mail"...
Plus, on forums with posts like this help me enormously with a way to interact with Gurus for further questions that will always arise.

I thank @ageingstudent, @Dyjital, @DizzyJ and @Certaindeaf because they are walking encyclopedias in the reloading world!!!:s0104:

CD has his own hilarious twist on things so a follow up may be needed to get the real dope.;)
I'm a one page encyclopedia!
 
Since this taken on a life of its own, I figured I'd better get in a final update. And yes, I like RCBS products, too, this was never meant as a slam at Big Green. That said, I'm not married to the brand, I like my Hornady powder measure more than my Uni-flow. I did do a test run after tightening the head stock down, works as advertised, but I still like my FA Prep Center better, so this sits on a shelf as a backup in case the FA goes down. Thanks again for all the helpful suggestions and amusing comments. Later.
 
I have the RCBS Electric Trim Pro, multiple trim dies that require a flat bastard file, The L.E. Wilson hand crank on a Sinclair platform and a WFT that i use a corded drill for mounted to my vice.

The L.E. Wilson is by far the most accurate of all.

The WFT is by far the fastest.

Trim dies and hand files is about as much fun as cleaning another mans bathroom.

The RCBS electric trim pro is nice because you can trim for a multitude of other calibers for a lower cost once established.

My dad swore that perfect case trim aided in accuracy. Who am i to argue with that..... he loaded for 45 years as a primary hobby. Unfortunately or Fortunately in all the years i have been loading i have not found one lick of difference in accuracy, velocity spread or anything else performance related with these 4 trimming methods.

So i normally pick which ever is the fastest and easiest. If there is a few thousandths of variance on each side... I could care less. Your miles may vary. That is the beauty of it all.
 
I started with a RCBS manual trimmer. Didn't like it. I won a Ruger 10/22 at a DU banquet and traded it for a Lyman power case trimmer. Greatest thing I ever did. But I gave it to a nephew when he started reloading. I bought one of these off of ebay. If you don't have a lot of different calibers, it's economical and works slick as can be. All you need is a drill to run it.
Brass Trimmers
 

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