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I have the same rifle but the shorter, 'Zouave' variant and it's accuracy is almost scary - and impresses non-ML shooters who see it and shoot it themselves.
Good luck with yours!
Good luck with yours!
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Rabbit muzzleloader
- Thread Starter jordanka16
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As for the adding tin...
You could add tin...but in my experience , most muzzleloading guns shoot best with a pure lead projectile.
Andy
You could add tin...but in my experience , most muzzleloading guns shoot best with a pure lead projectile.
Andy
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Well I got my templates all made and have gotten started on manufacturing paper cartridges, only have a few so far, and they are very time consuming to make, but it's easy to do while watching TV or youtube.
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Parchment paper , the type you use in baking is good to use for paper cartridges....
Andy
Andy
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This is just masking paper for painting, but I was thinking about that, since it is silicone impregnated it would make them slightly waterproof, very useful.
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Btw Andy, I wanted to get your opinion on this Zoli M1803 Harper's Ferry Rifle
If it's a quality maker, good price, etc. It would be handy that it is also a .58.
If it's a quality maker, good price, etc. It would be handy that it is also a .58.
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Zoil makes a fine rifle....the lines are clean , locks are quality , fit and finish top notch.
That said...the caliber and sights are not correct for a 1803 rifle....
I do like the price however.
Andy
That said...the caliber and sights are not correct for a 1803 rifle....
I do like the price however.
Andy
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The rear sight looks like they just took it right off a marlin .22, lol
Hmm, I will think about it, it's not exactly what I was looking for but I would like to finally get a flintlock.
Oh yeah it's also in my price range.
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What I do for hunting is make some 'Speedloaders' from sections of 1/2" cardboard tube. I cut several sections to the approximate length to hold 60 grains of powder and a bullet about halfway pushed in.
Then I cut several 1/2" circles of thin cardboard and glued them onto one end of my tubes. When the ends are dry I fill my tubes with 60 grains of powder and pushed a bullet into the open end. Friction from the .54 cal bullet held it tight and these were my 'speedloaders' for hunting and I kept three in my shirt pocket when hunting.
Pull the bullet, pour the powder down, seat the bullet and a few percussion caps in my pocket make for a quick reload.
Then I cut several 1/2" circles of thin cardboard and glued them onto one end of my tubes. When the ends are dry I fill my tubes with 60 grains of powder and pushed a bullet into the open end. Friction from the .54 cal bullet held it tight and these were my 'speedloaders' for hunting and I kept three in my shirt pocket when hunting.
Pull the bullet, pour the powder down, seat the bullet and a few percussion caps in my pocket make for a quick reload.
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Caliber choice thread! Oh goodie
Ive shot 32, 36, 40, and 45. I gave my EX the 54, no need for such a boomer.
32 is hard to deal with loading. fun gun, too darn picky. If I want picky, Ill talk to the mother in law.
36 is not as hard to load, real accurate, and fun to shoot. About as picky as the wife
40 is the all around favorite for flinters. Easy to load, and very accurate. Not picky at all.
45 is the least caliber you can hunt with in WA, so instead of getting s 40, I got a 45.
Still want a 40
OH my now we have gone to the which rifle is better thread.
There are two types of muzzleloader ignitions. Cap and flint. You first rifle may not be a flinter, but your last one will be. Avoid the expense, and build a flinter.
There are also two types of rifles: Third world production guns, and built ones. I had two high value production guns. Both broke, the last one I named ole fence post, that what it was gonna be, lucky the EX got it in the divorce.
Anyone that buys production guns is already looking for their next one.
ANYONE can build one. Here in WA there is an entire builders organization.
The best kits out there are Jim Chambers, Track of The Wolf, and The Muzzleloader Supply Co, (where I got my stuff from).
CVA kits are garbage, and have been since the 70s when we built them then.
Oh yeah whom ever was addressing the Harper's Ferry 1803. Thats one of the two production guns that broke on me. The ONLY word in 1803s is Jess Melot's Rifle Shoppe. He schooled me when we thought we were going to start building them. They are way to be caliber for this thread.
Ive shot 32, 36, 40, and 45. I gave my EX the 54, no need for such a boomer.
32 is hard to deal with loading. fun gun, too darn picky. If I want picky, Ill talk to the mother in law.
36 is not as hard to load, real accurate, and fun to shoot. About as picky as the wife
40 is the all around favorite for flinters. Easy to load, and very accurate. Not picky at all.
45 is the least caliber you can hunt with in WA, so instead of getting s 40, I got a 45.
Still want a 40
OH my now we have gone to the which rifle is better thread.
There are two types of muzzleloader ignitions. Cap and flint. You first rifle may not be a flinter, but your last one will be. Avoid the expense, and build a flinter.
There are also two types of rifles: Third world production guns, and built ones. I had two high value production guns. Both broke, the last one I named ole fence post, that what it was gonna be, lucky the EX got it in the divorce.
Anyone that buys production guns is already looking for their next one.
ANYONE can build one. Here in WA there is an entire builders organization.
The best kits out there are Jim Chambers, Track of The Wolf, and The Muzzleloader Supply Co, (where I got my stuff from).
CVA kits are garbage, and have been since the 70s when we built them then.
Oh yeah whom ever was addressing the Harper's Ferry 1803. Thats one of the two production guns that broke on me. The ONLY word in 1803s is Jess Melot's Rifle Shoppe. He schooled me when we thought we were going to start building them. They are way to be caliber for this thread.
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Friend, you are allowed to use a 40 caliber for deer hunting in WA.
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