Rabbit muzzleloader

[jordanka16]

I am looking to try out muzzleloader hunting, and since 90% of what I hunt is rabbits, that's where I'm going to start. I would like something inexpensive, since I have never tried it before and can't bring myself to spend $1000+ on something fancy (pretty as they are). I'm looking for recommendations on brands, and any other info that would be helpful. I figured .32 would be good to start with unless there are good reason for others.

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[Mark W.]

.32 cal is a terrible caliber to start out with. The small bore is very fussy about having to be cleaned often. I strongly suggest .40 cal or larger as a small game caliber in a Muzzle loader. Though personally I would go with a 12 ga side by side shotgun in percussion. 2 shots and a slightly better chance of a hit. With only a single round unless your shooting cotton tails that are holding a single shot with a 30 second reload is going to be frustrating with jacks.

You want a round ball barrel with as deep of rifling as possible My 50 cal has a Green Mountain target barrel on it and the rifling is about .010 deep. with a very slow 1-72" twist. On a stock Thompson Center .50 cal its about .004" deep with a 1-48" twist good for Maxi Slugs and deer hunting terrible with a patched round ball. A decent round ball twist is 1 in 66"


I've been out of the Muzzle loader buying world for a long time now so will let others advise on models to look for.

 

[aflineman]

Take a drive down to "The Gunworks" in Springfield. Worth the trip. Great folks, with a large selection to see what fits you (both budget and use).

 

[Andy54Hawken]

A big Like on the suggestion to visit the GunWorks.

I also agree that many .32 caliber rifles are fussy and not the best choice for a first gun.
That being said I have and use an original rifle in .32 and use for small game.
Please feel free to PM me if you are set on going this route.

I do most of my shooting and hunting with a .54 caliber rifle.
For grouse and other small game I just aim at the head.
I have had many years of practice with this rifle , so I know it very well.

Hunting guns I use are:
A .38 caliber longrifle by Royland Southgate.
A original combo gun in .44 /.12 gauge circa 1850-60's
A original flintlock trade gun in .20 gauge.
A .45 caliber flintlock longrifle built by Loren "Doc" Brown
My .54 Hawken Copy by Loren "Doc" brown
An original "Ohio" longrifle in .32 caliber (Circa 1850-60's)
A original .50 caliber Leman trade rifle ( late 1830's -40 )
A original flint Derringer smooth rifle in .56 caliber (circa 1800 - 1820's )
As well as a original Colt Navy and Colt Army revolver ( for small game )

For new made guns its had to beat a Pedersoli shotgun for small game.
As for rifles , I like the Thompson Center guns and unlike Mark W. have had good luck with round ball ...
But also as he said a deep slow twist is indeed best for round ball.
The Lyman Great Plains rifle is also a great place to start.

With these bigger calibers ( .45 and up ) I suggest lots of practice and just aim for the head and neck.
My biggest problem with most new made guns is that they aren't really a copy of any historic gun.
Not that , that really matters for most folks when hunting.

I do most of my shooting and hunting with various muzzle loaders both new made and original.
Again please feel free to PM or ask me any questions...
Andy

 

[jordanka16]

Currently I use a .17 HMR and aim for headshots, so that's the style of shooting I'll continue. Since everyone seems to agree that a .32 is not the best choice I will look at something larger. A .54 would be nice because then I could use it to hunt other larger game if I wanted without having to buy another rifle. So unless there is a good reason to go with something in the .40-45 caliber range I will look for a .54, thanks guys!

 

[Andy54Hawken]

A .54 caliber rifle is a great choice for all around hunting.
Many states hunting rules differ.
With a .54 caliber rifle you will have less worries about being legal for big game most anywhere.

Again the .32 is a neat caliber , but can be a bit more fussy than others.
There are ways and means of making it work well.
If this is truly the way you want to go I'd be happy to help in this regard if needed.
Andy

 

[jordanka16]

Would a .36 be much better than a .32? I just like the idea of using almost 4 times less lead and half or less of the powder for each shot.

 

[Andy54Hawken]

I like the .36 caliber better than a .32.
The Thompson Center Seneca rifle was once offered in .36 caliber.
Pedersoli makes a rifle in .36 as well ...but that's around $800
Andy

 

[Andy54Hawken]

Right now for sale at The GunWorks is a Uberti Hawken in .54 caliber that I put together.
It is item # P-24-95 and its $495.
If you are looking for a Nice shooting .54 rifle ...
Andy

 

[jordanka16]

Right now for sale at The GunWorks is a Uberti Hawken in .54 caliber that I put together.
It is item # P-24-95 and its $495.
If you are looking for a Nice shooting .54 rifle ...
Andy

That is really nice but I forgot to mention that I'd like a flintlock, it seems more traditional and I usually like things that are more challenging anyway.

 

[Andy54Hawken]

Flintlocks are a fine thing!
In that case I say stay away from flintlocks that are made by:
Thompson Center
Lyman
Traditions
CVA

I know that this advice goes against the grain and makes for a more expensive rifle purchase as you will have to go custom or for an original rifle.

The flintlocks made those companies all use coil springs and have trouble with poor lock geometry and poor hardening on the frizzen.

I wish I had a nickle for every lock by those brands that I worked on....

Also be advised that if you are using a flintlock do not use Pyrodex or any other Black Powder substitute , unless you like hangfires or your rifle not firing ...
Andy

 

[jordanka16]

Good advice, thanks. I have been reading about spring weights and lock timing and such, preparing myself for having to tune whatever rifle I buy. I am tempted to just buy a kit and built it myself, since I have several months to finish it anyway. Better caliber choices that way anyway.

 

[aflineman]

For a flintlock, I would look hard at a 20ga Trade Gun. I love shooting mine. And I have a few to choose from. 2nd choice would be my 28ga smooth bore precussion. I am very fond of my smoothbores for grouse and rabbit. I would not be opposed to shooting a deer with my Trade Gun either. Just need to use a good cast ball, and mind how far I take a shot.

 

[Andy54Hawken]

I have used my flintlock trade gun on grouse and clay birds.
I have shot my trade gun and flintlock smooth rifle and 1808 dated Springfield Musket at gongs out to 80 yards and have made many hits.
I have no doubt that with a good patch and ball combo they would be just fine for deer or elk.
Andy

 

[jordanka16]

My preferred method is to aim for headshots, that's why I'm leaning towards a rifle, although I could always get a shotgun later.

 

[Saigashooter]

andy would you please post a picture of your combo.44/12ga? I have never seen one.

 

[Rocklock]

First question is, where are you rabbit hunting? If it's at EE Wilson (noticed you're from Albany) a rifle isn't going to be an option. You're also going to be restricted to non-toxic shot.

As others have said a flintlock trade gun will fit the bill as a shotgun. There aren't any real options for a double barrel flintlock (Pedersoli is rumored to be bringing out a flint double next year but it's going to be spendy).



TG's can be found in a number of different styles, barrel lengths and calibers so do some research. Most rendezvous have a trade gun shoot so that's the best place to handle a bunch of different styles. If you ask nice most people will let you try a shot or two or three.

One note on flintlocks, going super cheap, especially on the lock will be an exercise in frustration. Spend the money and get a good one.

If you're hunting out east some where in the big empty, a rifle will work. If you're planning on eating the critters then head shots are pretty much mandatory no matter the caliber. Haven't really had loading problems with my .32 but it ain't my first rodeo either. Plus it's really cheap on powder and lead. Finding one will be a pain as they're not real common.


Last comment: Not sure of your skill level but, not all "kits" are created equal. They can range from a completely assembled rifle that just needs cosmetic finishing to a rough cut wood blank and a box of rough castings.

 

[jordanka16]

It sounds like I might need to look for a used rifle, especially for a smaller caliber. Is there anything I should keep an eye out for in terms of the lock or that might be hard to fix?

 

[Ura-Ki]

I have been at this quite a while, A few things to look for in the lock and frizzen are parts quality. Materials used and fit and finish are going to make of break any project. I have seen many "Copies" using cheep cast or pot metal parts, and this is usually the first thing to fail. Brass parts instead of Steel or Iron is another area of weakness, and like Andy points out, Springs! Other then that, I would agree that a Trades rifle in .54 might be the best option going, IF you can find a good one.

 

[Rocklock]

Besides the obvious stuff like broken springs, rusty bore, cracked stock, etc.. Pull the lock and check the tumbler for worn and/or broken notches. Worn/sticking/missing fly, worn/broken sear nose and just general abuse and lack of cleaning. Touch hole diameter (1/16" to 5/64" is normal but no more than 3/32"), if its burned out the vent liner may need to be replaced. If no vent liner one will need to be installed. Frizzen face should be hard (simple spark test will confirm) with no deep horizontal gouges across the face. Note: Make sure there is no charge in the barrel, especially if a private transaction.

If the lock comes from a known maker it should be easy enough to get fixed. The more obscure the lock source the more difficult it will be to get parts.

Some issues are easy fixes that may be nothing more than over tightened screws.

Check for a ringed barrel, especially about 4" down from the muzzle. That's where balls get short started to and forgotten about. Any place that a tight fitting jag/patch snags or suddenly becomes loose is cause for concern.

Check the breech plug for burns/leaks at the joint.

Make sure the ramrod is the right length. Yeah, you'ld be surprised how many used guns come with short ramrods. You'ld also be surprised how many builders have that front lock screw blocking the ramrod channel so the gun HAS to have a short ramrod.