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Loaded some bullets for my ar-15 and finally tried some out today but have some questions. When using loads on the low end I was hearing the firing pin hit before the round went off. Not a big delay but just enough that I could hear it. Kinda threw me off. As the powder increased it seemed to happen less and my accuracy improved. Using wc-844 powder with 55 gr fmj and cci 41 primers. Used reloading data for h335 powder loading 10 each starting at 24grains working up to 26 grains. First question why the delayed ignition. primers seated properly and flash holes clean. Question 2. My Speer reloading manual shows a max load of 26 gr with h335 but hodgen says max load for a 55 grain bullet is anywhere between 22.7 to 25.3. Am I safe with this powder at these loads. There were no pressure signs. Thanks in advance for any help
 
What you're probably hearing is a delay while pressure is building from an under loaded cartridge. If too little powder is loaded, it takes a few miliseconds to build enough pressure for the whole to ignite. Under power loads can be dangerous. Best to start just a bit higher.
 
Umm... if there's a "hang fire" (the condition you describe) there is something else going on here...

I would check first: contaminated primers (did you clean the lube off the cases? Off your fingers before handling primers?), also primers that are simply no-good.

The rise-time from click to pow, should be measured in milliseconds, it takes even the best people 100ms to react to a changing light. If you are noticing this, it is not an "underloaded" round, and an underload doesn't happen unless you're at 50% of a normal load (12grs?)

As far as H335 in .223 with the 55gr FMJ's I typically load 24 grains, it cycles well, and is perfectly accurate for what I need. I never felt the need to put 2 extra grains in, when you load as much ammo as I do that 2 extra grains starts to add up pretty quick. Also, if for some reason i get a bit of drift on the progressive, I'm not getting into the danger zone in either direction.
 
24gr h335 is just about perfect for performance and being accurate. How old are the primers? And make sure you don't touch the primers with your hands(oil). You can load up if you chrono and check for pressure signs. But for me when i use h335 it's 24 gr. with good primers and if you are setting up the cases good its a good mix.
 
Primers were never touched. Went right into tray from package. Primers were seated below flush. I have some wolf 223 primers. Maybe I will try that. Also my reloading manual says to use magnum primers with that powder but most people say not required.
 
I typically use CCI#400 or CCI #41 arsenal primers, however I'm often stuck using winchester, when that's all I can get my hands on. You don't need a magnum primer for that load. Especially at 24grs.

As MA pointed out... you do want to seat your primers deep enough, typically .003-.007" below flush.
 
Some shooters have had "problems" with WOLF primers.

I believe that WOLF has expanded their line up. It's no longer just SR standard or SR Magnum.

SMALL RIFLE PRIMER (part # QQQSR) - Used as a standard small rifle primer. Perfect for the 30 carbine and 223 standard loads. Many people use this primer in bench and other loads for the 223. This primer is a copper colored primer.

SMALL RIFLE MAGNUM PRIMER (part# QQQSRM) - This is the primer we had before for use in the 5.56 loads and hot 223 loads. A thick cup for the higher pressure. We sold a lot of these primers earlier this year. The new lot is brass colored instead of nickel.

SMALL RIFLE 223 (part # QQQSR223) NEW NEW This is the newest primer available in the Wolf line. It is ever so slightly hotter than the small rifle magnum primer and it comes with a brass or copper colored thick cup. This primer can be used in place of the SRM primer or used when a different powder is used that is hard to ignite.

Make sure you got the RIGHT primer.

For your application with WC844 I'd pick product #QQQSR223.

Aloha, Mark
 
You've done yours "slightly below flush" and you're correct (for rifle ammo).

But, some folks still do it incorrectly. So, let me just post this.....

From the Speer manual..........


Repriming is a simple, but critical, step that reloaders often do not give enough attention to. In order to gain optimum primer sensitivity, it must be seated firmly to the bottom of the primer pocket. But this doesn't mean using so much force that the primer cup is deformed. When primers are properly seated, the top of the primer is from .005" to .008" below flush with the case head. The purpose of this is to assure that the primer anvil legs are in firm contact with the bottom of the primer pocket. If they are not so seated, it requires an average of 59% greater firing pin blow to give reliable ignition. This much extra force simply isn't available in many firearms.

Analysis of hundreds of handload misfires complaints show that the vast majority are caused by insufficient primer seating.


You can check............by running your finger along the bottoms of your cases. You'll learn the "feel of the primers" as they should be seated below flush.


If, after completing the reloading operation, you discover some rounds with high primers, do not attempt to reseat the primer in a loaded round. To do so is extremely hazardous! The chance of a primer firing during proper seating is extremely remote. Yet, if it does, it will ignite the powder in the case and you have a home-made "grenade" right before you.

If high primers are discovered, remove both bullet and powder charge from the case before attempting to reseat the primer! There is no safe alternative.


HTH.

Aloha, Mark

Mind you that for LIABILITY sake's, I posted what the book says. How you end up doing things is your call.

And, for pistol ammo. Well, mostly I've found that the primers will end up seated flush.

Aloha, Mark
 
I have the sr223 primers so I will try the same loads with those and some loads with varget and both types of primers and try to figure out the problem. Thanks for all that replied and tried to help.
 

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