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I have a Kimber Pro TLE II, and had it apart for a good scrubbing tonight when I noticed the ejector is loose. Is this normal? None of my other pistols have any play in the ejector, so I am a bit concerned. The Kimber has had about 900 rounds fired since new. Seems odd to me, but I figured I'd ask those with a bit more experience with the 1911 platform before getting ahold of the manufacturer.


Thanks,

B
 
not normal (and we are talking ejector, the part attached to the frame)....

the ejector is usually kept in place by a roll pin, either that broke or fell off... or somehow lost it's tension

you can buy a replacement roll pin for about 2$ online...
 
Yes. Ejector, not extractor :) Roll pin is still there. Ejector isn't falling off loose, but definitely not solid. Gun is still covered by factory warranty, but I'd miss her if she had to travel all the way to NY and back.
 
I'd get it fixed then... it can cause your gun to jam if the ejector moved and binds... for one, it can prevent you from disassembling the slide/frame

the notch on the ejector may be too large or shallow, or could be the roll pin is out of spec...

either way, I'd get it fixed...
 
I have a Kimber Pro TLE II, and had it apart for a good scrubbing tonight when I noticed the ejector is loose. Is this normal? None of my other pistols have any play in the ejector, so I am a bit concerned. The Kimber has had about 900 rounds fired since new. Seems odd to me, but I figured I'd ask those with a bit more experience with the 1911 platform before getting ahold of the manufacturer.


Thanks,

B

If it is a MIM part, just buy a good part and replace it.

Sometimes you can steak the ejector to remove the slop, which would hold until you get a new ejector to replace it.
 
as a short term fix, you can put some locktite in it.... is your ejector cross pinned? is there a hole in the frame channel just below the front of the ejector?

I just found this info from midway

"Notes on Ejectors:
Replacing an ejector on a 1911 is often a tricky business, and is not recommended for the home hobbyist. The traditional way of securing the ejector to the frame is with a crosspin, however some modern manufacturers of 1911 type guns do not use this method. They instead use a locking compound, like Locktite™ to secure the ejector to the frame. In these guns, there are no holes drilled in the frame to allow for the use of a crosspin. If there is no hole drilled in the frame of your 1911 in the slide rail of the frame just above the plunger tube, then your ejector is not "pinned" in place. The removal procedure for an ejector which is not pinned involves heating the frame in the area of the ejector mounting studs. Heating of a gun frame is an undertaking for only the experienced gunsmith. Over heating may cause changes in the structure of the metal, affecting integrity and possibly making the gun unsafe to use. If you are unsure of the method by which your ejector is held in place, consult a gunsmith"
 
A loose ejector isn't end of world. It'll run with no pin or glue on it- the slide holds it in place. But I would go ahead and replace it before it snaps. If glued just heat it with a heat gun until a small puff of smoke
 
A loose ejector isn't end of world. It'll run with no pin or glue on it- the slide holds it in place. But I would go ahead and replace it before it snaps. If glued just heat it with a heat gun until a small puff of smoke

Just remember if the thing snaps and the pins are left in the hole, it can be an expensive lesson if out of warranty
 
Just remember if the thing snaps and the pins are left in the hole, it can be an expensive lesson if out of warranty

Not really as that's what happened to mine. Had a front leg shear off while removing. As soon as the glue heats and puffs, the leg will fall out. If the ejector is pinned it's a matter of using the proper punch for the job.
Pin is still there- this was a production line gun and didn't have the ejector filed to fit, was a drop in and you got some play. Being in Hippyville I'm gonna guess Wichaka is a ways from you but if not take him up on his offer!! Also I would bypass a factory replacement and order a quality part if doing the work anyways
 
I really appreciate the all the advice and the offer to help install the parts!
I contacted Kimber this morning, and they are going to ship/repair it no charge. I also have felt the gun fires slightly low since new (groups are outstanding- I just have to aim high to get them where I want them). The CS rep said they would also test fire it, and if there is a problem, they will correct it while they have it.

I am going to order an extra ejector/pin for it, just in case this happens again after the warranty runs out. I figure for what this thing cost me, the manufacturer should foot the bill this time around.:)
 

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