i am preparing to load some all brass shell 10 gauge to shoot in my 1886 LC Smith. I usually use real black powder in all my antique guns but was curious about loading it with Pyrodox. I read an off comment somewhere that Pyrodox was as corrosive as black powder? I probably should have just asked Andy...........but now I am curious. Anyone know about this?
Thankyou.......too bad it isn’t cleaner. I always have a few lbs of FFG around but these 10 ga shells take 90 grains. Guess I better order some more. I can shoot up a Lb at the trap range on Saturday morning.
Yup, I ruined a barrel shooting Pyrodex, Bad advice from a gun store commando and I didn't clean it right after shooting, just the humidity after a 24 hour stretch put some pretty good rust and pitting in the bore and worse, rusted the breach plug solid! It's a wall hanger now, and a reminder that all B.P. Arms must be cleaned each and every time!
A bit about the use of the word "Corrosive"...
Yes black powder is corrosive...but your gun will not start to rust away , just after shooting it.
It has a bad reputation for sure....
There are times that I can not fully clean my guns new or antique after a display for a few days...I'm talking 3-4 days here...and I have yet to see the harm in it.
Yes I do try to clean right away....it only makes sense to do so...but as I said , your gun will not die a rusty pitted death if you don't get to it right after shooting.
Water ( cold , warm , hot ) with or without soap...down the bore ...over the lock ...lightly on the stock where the powder residue is at...then dry...followed by a cleaning like a modern gun... I use Hoppe's #9 or CLP ...oil the stock...presto...done...Just check in a day or two for left over oil or if you have rust....
Please note that the above is for black powder only....Pyrodex as noted in Ura-Ki's post # 5 can cause rust to form within hours....
Hodgdon triple 7 Gold and Silver are very good powders ( supposedly a powder substitute like Pyrodex) they measure very well, and are about the least corrosive, but they will still allow corrosion over time! I find they are pretty equal in terms of burn rate and load pressures! IF they say FFg or FFFg, they are very very close to actual B.P.! I find that places that sell the Tripple 7 usually have Goex, so I usually just buy Goex and call it good! @AndyinEverson may have more experience with these that he can share!
My experience with triple 7 is kinda like Pryodex...
Works best in percussion arms and cartridge guns....Not for flintlocks....
Alliant 's Black MZ works good....Good enough for me to say even in flintlocks...I haven't used it much...so that may change....
The worst in my experience has been "Clear Shot".... I can't say anything good about this product other than "Good Riddance"... I would quit shooting before using this again....
Good to know, thanks Andy! I have never tried the 7's in a flint, makes sense to me why it wouldn't work that well!
Forgot about the MZ, good stuff in the percussion arms! Haven't tried it in any thing else, YET! I think I still have a couple pounds of it, should get it out and see how it runs!
I just bought a new Uberti Walker replica and have been doing some BP-substitute research. Alliant Black MZ sounds like the best substitute going. Functionally closer to real BP than any of the others. Anecdotal evidence from several people about leaving guns for months without corrosion problems. Smokes like BP if that's your thing. Haven't shot it yet to see, won't until it rains a bit.
Lots of comments about Pyrodex and Triple 7 as well as others being corrosive.
Blackhorn 209 needs shotshell primers to be reliable.
Glad to see @AndyinEverson 's endorsement of Black MZ!!
Per Alliant, Black MZ is NOT being discontinued, contrary to internet rumor.
Here in Europe I've been shooting Pyrodex since it came to the market in the early 80's. Living in Berlin at the time, it was a real boon, since black powder was prohibited for civilian use under the terms of the Four-power Agreement, and Pyrodex, of course, is just another propellant.
I agree with everything so far spoge about the corrosive properties of ALL the subs, regardless of the claims of the makers - a read of muzzleloadingforum.com over the last fifteen years on the subject should convince even the most hardened sceptic of that fact.
It all boils down to doing something that the vast majority of us shooters take for granted - shoot 'em, then clean 'em - quick as you can.
I concur in that Pyrodox is as corrosive as BP however it is my experience the buildup while shooting is thinner and allows more shots between a bore mopping than BP. Also I find Pyrodex gives me better accuracy in my percussion repros with conicals.
@AndyinEverson I just wanted to confirm - Windex makes a good cleaner, especially if you can't clean right away? Though I recall you have to be sure it has ammonia, so it will dissolve and remove the salts that cause the corrosion? Would this help with the Pyrodex issue too? I've considered carrying a bottle with me to the range to at least do an initial cleaning/rinse that may hold me over a bit if I can't do a thorough clean right afterward.