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When mounting a new scope on a rifle or just adjusting one that came with it, is it enough to only gauge if the horizontal axis of your scope is aligned with the horizontal axis of your rifle using your eye? Or is a better precision method needed to avoid throwing off accuracy? It feels like no matter how much I play with it; its ever so slightly off.

The one I had included with my new Remington 700 ADL does not even appear to have the vertical crosshair aligned with the top turret but I would still like to know because I plan to replace the scope.
 
Having your scope out of level will throw your windage and elevation adjustments off, especially at distance. The way I do it is I level out the rifle, typically via the scope mount rail. Then use a plumb bob and line up the vertical hair with the string.
 
I always level a rifle in a vice both side to side and butt to muzzle using a machinest spirit level ( any good bubble level will also work) across the receiver mounts or rails. As I install the scope in the rings and gently snug them down, I put the level on the top turret and level the scope to the rifle! Once the scope is secure in the rings, I then check the rifles level again and check to see that the scopes horizontal stadia is also level, you can also check the vertical stadia as Krujil recommends with a plumb Bob! :D
 
I vote for as precise as you can get it. using cribs of known accuracy ( levels, plum lines etc)
You must start with a tool in proper order since most of us will inadvertently cant the rifle anyway from time to time in free hand mode, especially if you are on uneven ground whilst hunting. So having confidents on the correctness of the tool gives you a better chance of reckoning, then correcting, any human error possibly giving you grief in the field.
 
Since people are "visual".... guys in particular. ;)


Indeed. This fella is resorting to using a toothpick to align his crosshair..

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Lots of good, bad and indifferent videos on how to do this. It all depends upon the application. Slapping a 4x32 on a Ruger 1022 might be easy. Exactly placing a very good optic on a very good AR15 will take some more time.

Mounting that expensive high end optic on a 1000 yard shooter will be very time consuming. But none of the above is difficult. I try to zero the adjustments out on the scope then attempt to get all the rest of it very very close elsewhere.

Easy to zero the optic adjustment. Just like it sounds. Spin in both directions completely then go back 50%. Zeroing the rail or mount takes some more doing. I like having all of the optic adjustment to make the final adjustments.

Bench vise. Firearm level. A good laser bore sighter to get you close. A pocket calculator. Then a good 100 yard bench rest to get you closer. Then 300 yards for a good AR15. You get the idea. 1000 yard shooting centering difficult.

That is why good gunsmiths are expensive. Time is money. Exactness takes time but it is nothing like rocket science. Midway Supply and Brownells sells everything you will need plus some very good videos. A fun hobby indeed.
 
If you're trying to return a used scope to factory zero settings without rotating the adjustment knobs all the way from right to left (some scopes don't take kindly to this), try placing the scope against a bathroom mirror with the light on above and look into the eyepiece.
You will see two sets of cross hairs.
Adjust windage & elevation until both cross hairs align together.
 
Lots of great advice above. If you don't know how, get a good gunsmith to mount it. Worth every penny.

:s0013: Rant time:

One thing I find irritating about scope mounts is the lack of precision alignment built into the design.
For example, with the typical receiver, for every 1/1000th inch you are misaligned in your mounting, your natural pointing is off by 3/4" at 100 yards.
This may be moot considering the adjustment in scope crosshairs until you go for long distances. The mount is a controlled variable that, IMO, should be dead-nutz to start with.
Then take into consideration the cumulative effect of the recoil. The only manufacturers I recall that have recoil control built into their scope mounts are Ruger and CZ. If you have mounted it correctly but your torque settings are too low, that sucker will walk over time. This is also why you don't buy cheap parts for optic mounts. If you buy a one piece Chinese knock-off, the screws included for mounting will most likely NOT be rated for the torque you need to tighten to for proper mounting, e.g. Grade 1 screws when you need Grade 5 or better.
If I had a mill, on all my rifle receivers that didn't have integral Picatinny rails, I'd mill in dowel pin alignment holes and do the same for the scope mounts or 1-piece rails. Zero recoil effect, always aligned -- even if screws loosen a little.
 
Again this is the included scope I plan to replace but figured I would level it for practice. Thoughts?
(You can see the string hanging from the chair near the bottom of the crosshair)
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