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Very interesting thread. Your reloading tools for primers are pretty cool. I might try something similar.

I've been studying this issue for a few months, mostly following this as a guide.


There are several primer recipes that are non-corrosive included if you don't mind dabbling in some chemistry. I didn't see this link posted in this thread, but I know it's mentioned in the cast boolits thread earlier.
 
Very interesting thread. Your reloading tools for primers are pretty cool. I might try something similar.

I've been studying this issue for a few months, mostly following this as a guide.


There are several primer recipes that are non-corrosive included if you don't mind dabbling in some chemistry. I didn't see this link posted in this thread, but I know it's mentioned in the cast boolits thread earlier.

Yes that's good info, though some of his later guides actually have less info than earlier ones. Personally, I'm not a chemist and I doubt it's a smart to order some of the stuff you'd need to make primers in today's climate, so I'm going to stick with the pre-packaged compound and just accept the extra cleaning required. Hopefully, by the time I get something perfected, we'll all be able to buy commercial primers again.

My next step, which I've been procrastinating on because I do my web surfing in the shop and the CNC is loud as heck, is to make a slightly thicker compound grate. Every primer I made worked, but I had some really high ES numbers, and the velocities were really slow (minus 130 to 200 FPS for the grate measured primers compared to standard and magnum primers). I'm thinking I need more compound in the cup. One thing the failed roll cap/stuck bullet debacle taught me though, is that if there is too much material in the cup, the primer will pop when being seated.
 
any update on stl's? I'd like to give this a try.

Definitely give it a try -- I'd love to see other's experiences. But I'm going to be slightly lazy -- I'll give you the hard stuff but honestly, my files aren't worth the bother to either of us.
  • I made an eight hole grate and it's too small. I think 20 or 25 would be a better balance between safety and efficiency. I'm still testing primer compound weights so I haven't drawn anything more useful than the 8 hole grate.
  • In any event, the drawing is basically a rectangle with circles inside. There is nothing unique or special about my rectangles and circles -- it's a super simple project.
  • Also, I didn't do this as a a 3D project, it's a 2.5D project, so I wouldn't have any 3D file types such as STL. It's just a DXF line drawing I open in CAM software and then set up the cuts for my CNC.
The only important part about this project and the part that took some effort, was getting the dimensions of the holes and the thickness of the grates. Here's what I got for that:

Part (SPP)Thickness (*)Hole Diameter
Primer Cup Holder2.84 mm4.75 mm
Primer Compound GrateA: 1.24 mm
B: 1.74 mm
3.4 mm

(*) Measured -- leave a little extra when cutting these parts to account for sanding.
A: This is the first grate that lead to the results noted above. I felt that the velocity figures I obtained were indicative of too little primer, so I have made a thicker grate.
B: This is the second grate and I have NOT YET TESTED primers with this amount of compound. Could be too much priming compound, don't know yet -- beware!
 
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70% isopropyl alcohol

I mixed up a new batch of compound and made new reprimers with the B sized grate noted above. The alcohol gave me ample working time. It is a much better choice than acetone.

Also, in the first batch I made, I let them dry for 24 hours in the grate before adding foil and anvil. That's sort of inconvenient, especially if I wanted to make more than eight per day, so this time I put the foil/anvil in place while still damp. I'll let them dry for a while -- probably until the weekend.

hotPrimersMaybe.png
 
I'll be doing it 3d printed first, Then I'll move onto CNC once i get it dialed in. If you have the 2d file that'd help alot so i can turn it into 3d and go from there. If not no biggie.

My main concern is metadata in my file which I don't know how to remove. But it's just cubes and cylinders in 3D CAD or rectangles and squares in 2D. Sorry to be a butt! ;-)
 
New test. Eight shots. Same load as above except using more priming compound with the B grate.

Weight of priming compound after allowing it to dry since last Monday (see attached picture of grate): 0.30, 0.32, 0.24, 0.30 Unfortunately when I filled the grate I felt like one hole was not packed as much due to running out of materials but I forgot to make a clear note of it and a week later couldn't say for certain which one it was. I think that is the 0.24 gr one though. Nice thing though, the material sticks in the grate very well.

filledGrate.png


Results: NO DATA -- I Effed up.

I had wanted to dry the reprimers outside the holding grate but my holes in that grate must have had a slight taper because I was not able to push them through. I did not want to flip the grate over and push the primers through from the bottom in case any priming compound would get lost somehow. So I put a light chamfer on the underside of the grate holes, tested so the primers would just squeeze through with mild force and went to work.

Today I was trying to load my primer tube with the now dry primers and the first one seemed to get stuck -- anyway -- long story but my hand is bloody from trying to get that primer out of the primer tube and my primer tube is in the garbage.

When I put that chamfer at the bottom of the holes, it made room for the primer cup to form to that space and now the primers won't fit the priming arm or priming tube. So I will need to redo this test with the holder grate flipped over.


fdup.png
 
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On a positive note, since I can't load these I hit one with a hammer. It popped -- clearly the isopropyl doesn't affect functionality. It also made my ears ring (the ones made with Grate A popped, but did not make my ears ring) -- so it's got more oomph at least, which stands to reason given it has 50% more compound.
 
Will my order of 10,000 primers at ten bux per 1,000 still get there by Christmas?

After reading this thread, it looks as if Christmas delivery can be easily guaranteed. For prepaid orders ONLY, you can choose a guaranteed delivery date for any Christmas between Christmas of 2057 to Christmas 2063, which ever you prefer. Non-prepaid orders can not be guaranteed for Christmas delivery We apologize for the inconvenience. Our guarantee is simple: If your order does not arrive by the guaranteed date, you are basically SOL and we don't want to hear about it. No refunds, period. Additional charges may apply.
 
After reading this thread, it looks as if Christmas delivery can be easily guaranteed. For prepaid orders ONLY, you can choose a guaranteed delivery date for any Christmas between Christmas of 2057 to Christmas 2063, which ever you prefer. Non-prepaid orders can not be guaranteed for Christmas delivery We apologize for the inconvenience. Our guarantee is simple: If your order does not arrive by the guaranteed date, you are basically SOL and we don't want to hear about it. No refunds, period. Additional charges may apply.

Don't knock it -- I'm thinking the primer shortage might go on past 2063!
 
I work at a plastic manufacturing shop with cnc and mill tooling. Is there a reason that you need to use aluminum? Could you use other materials?? Maybe I can help if so. I have access to very stable and high temp plastics...
 

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