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awshoot

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I have code that will print standard die threads. I made a digital counter with a sensor that threads into a die location. I can provide the code or modify my design and make you one for whatever size metal insert you would need.

View attachment 816635

Wow -- that's cool!

I'm interested in the files, though not for making a primer press so much (I bought an arbor press and so I'm going to stick with that) but I'm sure I'd find a use for it. Maybe the primer cup making set mentioned up thread would be easier to build as a hybrid plastic/metal project.
 

awshoot

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Aye i got one to go off! woooop

[UWSL][UWSL][UWSL][UWSL][UWSL][UWSL][UWSL][UWSL][UWSL][UWSL][UWSL][UWSL][UWSL][UWSL]TLDR -- 1) Compression force matters a lot for these to go bang and, 2) wet priming compound pops.[/UWSL][/UWSL][/UWSL][/UWSL][/UWSL][/UWSL][/UWSL][/UWSL][/UWSL][/UWSL][/UWSL][/UWSL][/UWSL][/UWSL]

I made a new batch of reprimers today to continue with the testing that failed ( https://www.northwestfirearms.com/threads/primer-recharging-project.345930/page-7#post-2822798 ). It'll probably be a half to a full week before I shoot them. These use Grate B, cups reformed at 60 ft pounds, 3x slow, priming compound compressed at 40 ft pounds, 3x slow (the idea being maybe I extend the life of my tools -- but considering the below, maybe you get more oomph at higher compression).

Compressed Vs. Non-Compressed (probably H-48 Priming Compound)

I had some compound left over after filling my test reprimers, so I filled a cup with loose compound to the rim, and used the flat end of a wooden Qtip to compress it, just hand tight. Put in an anvil, hit it with a hammer. Nothing. It just squashed.

OK -- I think to myself, maybe the compound is still too wet from the 70% isopropyl alcohol (*) even though it looks pretty dried out, but maybe compression is an issue. So I fill a cup with compound the same way, but this time I use my arbor press to compress it to 40 ft pounds, three times slowly. Put in an anvil, hit with a hammer: POP.

Maybe I did a lousy job with the first hand compressed test, so I repeat like the first test with the compound hand compressed. Hit it with a hammer: nothing, it just squashed. So I hit it with the hammer again, and there is a bit of a "poof". I hypothesize that the first hammer strike compressed the priming compound to some degree (though it may also have broken it into separate reservoirs of compound) and the second strike ignited some of that more highly compressed compound.

(*) My assumption was that wet compound would not pop. I've never tested this. So I made a fourth one after re-wetting with isopropyl alcohol, compressed to 40 ft pounds 3x, hammered: LOL. the pop was a little louder than normal (maybe trapped steam) and I forgot to put in my ear plugs. Anyway -- this stuff will go off wet. It was wetter than the consistency I use in the grate (I'd say like playdough) -- this wetter one was like cream of wheat. Still popped.
 
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awshoot

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TEST #2 RESULTS

Load, .38 Special:

  • Fiochi brass
  • 4.5 gr Accurate #2
  • MT Golden Bullet 125 gr. JHP
  • COAL: 1.446"
  • Reprimers, compound measured with Grate B (* grate thickness) (** priming compound weight)
Velocity:
836​
757​
773​
804​
857​
807​
834​
752​
ES:
84
AVG:
794.7
SD:
34.7

Accuracy, 15 yds, from a rest, single action. (The shots are numbered in order except I forgot to record shots 3-5, those are marked "A"):

test2Results.png

Initial Conclusion:

These results compare well with the Fed 100 reference test (***). This test has a velocity about 40 FPS less than the Fed100 reference, almost identical ES between them, but a bit worse SD for these reprimers. Accuracy is about 2.6" for this test, and 1.99" for the Fed 100 reference, but it isn't reasonable to think this reprimer would want the exact same powder weight as the Fed100 reference either. A 2.6" group at 15 yds from a rest is basically where my ability and revolver accuracy is at, so I think this test validates the effectiveness of reprimers compared to commercial. The next logical thing to do would be to work up a load tailored to these reprimers.

About Grate B and Seating Issues:

When I was seating rollCap primers, one or two of them popped as I seated them. I certainly did not seat them hard, it's just the compression set them off. The cups in reprimers are a little out of spec and are hard to seat. With this last batch, there was initial resistance, and then they seemed to sort of crunch into place. I will segregate these reprimers later to look at when I deprime. It's sort of anxiety provoking -- that crunch -- and I was constantly expecting one to to pop. Anyway, I could make a slightly thicker compound grate, but at some point, I worry the priming compound will start popping under compression against the anvil like the rollCaps did, and because I'm satisfied with the velocity from this test, I think I'm going to stick with Grate B for the compound measurement rather than increase it any.

(*) https://www.northwestfirearms.com/threads/primer-recharging-project.345930/post-2815283
(**) https://www.northwestfirearms.com/threads/primer-recharging-project.345930/page-7#post-2822798
(***) https://www.northwestfirearms.com/threads/primer-recharging-project.345930/page-6#post-2799022

(I finally did something other than post stupid memes, but it has been pouring rain for most of the week)
 
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awshoot

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Just finished cleaning the gun, started when I finished the above post, so 5:02 to 7:11. I think I'll speed up going forward for two reason. 1) I accidentally disassembled the trigger assembly more than I intended and getting it back together took a while, and 2) I think Windex seems to really cut the crud. This thing looks like new and the baked on residue from many previous firings, which despite much elbow grease and various cleaning solvents, never really went away in the past. I think I'm about totally through the gunk and future cleanings will involve less cleaning.
 
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Hi guys i'm new here but ive been working at making my own primers for some time now. I was actually looking for more info when I came across this thread and thought I could chime in. I’m not much into forums but thought I could share here.



I have been doing some research on this subject and I now am able to make very decent primer with that primall stuff. It took some testing though.

I did not read this entire thread and some of these things might have been mentioned here but here goes anyways.



The most important increase in my primers power occurred when I added a paper punch on top of the charge, between the charge and the anvil and compacted it down. The primer became very powerful and close to the power of a commercial primer. With some tinkering I got it to be as powerful.

This is my method:



I tap some compound into the cup till it is full to the top and then a little more. I use a punch the same diameter as the primer cum and press the powder down with maybe a small 5 to 10 lbs of gradual force. I pick the paper disk (just a normal punch you get from putting holes in paper to place in binders, perfect size for LRP or LPP) up with the slightly wetted end of the punch tip (centered). And press it down over the charge. The charge is now sealed in.



I press in the anvil using my lee press with a lee bullet resizing punch on the ram and an upside down reloading die with a flat top on the upper portion. The anvil self centers and presses in easily. I have since machined a better replacement for the upside down die.



The next great improvement on my primers is when I added some 100 mesh aluminum powder to the mix, it took some testing but I found that about one small scoop per mix works great. Too much and I had reliability problems, too little and I didn’t get the effect. The effect was astounding. The primers I load now are way more powerful and can easily be used for slow powders. The blast is substantially better than large magnum rifle primers, so I can likely load them a little less.



I have found numerous sources of information and I am looking in making my own dies, I have made dies for very large versions of the primer cups, high wall gas checks for my 45. The problem is the anvils, I found the plans to make them but I cant see how I can make the puch and die for anvils without special micro precision tools. See the primer section of the second reference below.



Here are some valuable resources.



http://www.aardvarkreloading.com/resources/Homemade Primer Course 2019-06-28.pdf

https://archive.org/details/AmmunitionMakingNRAByG.Frost1990/page/n7/mode/2up
 
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Be careful with that second reference, don't just go and try to order all that stuff online, alot of things there are no go and will raise flags. Dont ask!

That aardvark guy knows his stuff! he goes by mike something on YT, you can find out on his website aardvarkreloading.com
 

awshoot

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Be careful with that second reference, don't just go and try to order all that stuff online, alot of things there are no go and will raise flags. Dont ask!

That aardvark guy knows his stuff! he goes by mike something on YT, you can find out on his website aardvarkreloading.com

How do yours seat? I'm thinking of making a sort of sizing die for primer cups (just a scrap of metal with a hole drilled in it so I can shrink them down a slight bit by pushing the cups through). Mine seat with a somewhat nerve-wracking crunch.
 
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Somebody contacted me about this and he was apparently able to source used stamps for cups and anvils, he has been making hix own primers for about a decade now. I feel like i need to make those dies at some point or source them. Its about self reliance for me. This shortage caught me by surprise this time and i shoot alot, not good.
 

awshoot

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I will attempt to make primer dies this weekend, or at least start, will let you guys know if i am successful. I think i have an idea for the anvil dies...nothing is certain but hey you wont ever know unless you try.

This is a very worthy project. I wish it was in my skillset. Did you see the post earlier about a guy who made gas check dies? It might have some useful info. In my mind, a primer cup is just a small gas check. Here's a direct link to the post:


The post right after also has some other links.

Also, Amazon has metal: https://www.amazon.com/Sheet-10-0-015-Brass/dp/B0006N6WJE?tag=link-nwfa-20
 
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Yep i made different single stroke gas check dies on my lathe a few months back. I made some dies that make "high walled" gas checks for my 45 cal cast bullets. These are exactly like primer cups. i dont think the cups will be difficult to make at all, but the anvil will likely be but like i said i have an idea i want to try.
 
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awshoot

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Yep i made different single stroke gas check dies on my lathe a few months back. I made some dies that make "high walled" gas checks for my 45 cal cast bullets. These are exactly like primer cups. i dont think the cups will be difficult to make at all, but the anvil will likely be but like i said i have an idea i want to try.

Anvils can be had pretty easily from spent primers -- not a perfect solution, but a viable one. I have noticed how the reprimed cups I make do not dent under the firing pin, rather, the whole bottom caves in. I think the metal is weakened a lot in the initial firing and subsequent reforming process. New cups would make them safer I believe.
 

Lilhigbee

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I have noticed how the reprimed cups I make do not dent under the firing pin, rather, the whole bottom caves in. I think the metal is weakened a lot in the initial firing and subsequent reforming process.
On the contrary, they are probably work-hardened at the original point of deformation. Try annealing some of a batch and see if they don't dent more akin to original primers.
 
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