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The thing I'd worry about is how brittle the metal might become after its initial use. The force and pressure primers are subjected to is different than the brass casing.
 
The thing I'd worry about is how brittle the metal might become after its initial use. The force and pressure primers are subjected to is different than the brass casing.

You could anneal like many do for cases. You would obviously have to improvise a bit. I also wonder if spent 22 brass could be formed into a primer?
 
:s0140:

I am having trouble finding the headstamps on my primers. They must be really small.

Federal AR-Match (GM205MAR) are headstamped! lol

gm205mar.png
 
...
I'm really not meaning to denigrate the work of the OP, I looked into the idea of reloading primers, too. Decided my chemistry skills weren't up to the task of producing non corrosive priming mixture. If you can make it work, at least you'll have primers!

Yeah -- I can measure things and hammer stuff, but I don't have any chemistry. I merely bought a package of .22 reloading compound at my LGS a while back -- they've done all the hard chemistry work. There's a link upthread to another brand that looks to be packaged the same way.
 
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The thing I'd worry about is how brittle the metal might become after its initial use. The force and pressure primers are subjected to is different than the brass casing.

I have the same worry. Getting them made will be half the battle -- seeing if they're good for anything but powder puff plinkers will be the other half.
 
I have the same worry. Getting them made will be half the battle -- seeing if they're good for anything but powder puff plinkers will be the other half.
I look forward to the project results! Should be interesting.

I'll start saving my "once fired" primers moving forward!

Who knows, may be a market for those after you get the ball rolling!
 
I merely bought a package of .22 reloading compound at my LGS a while back -- they've done all the hard chemistry work. There's a link upthread to another brand that looks to be packaged the same way.
Do you know if that priming material is non corrosive? That could be a useful tyhing, if it doesn't require me to immediately clean the gun within a few hours of shooting.
 
Do you know if that priming material is non corrosive? That could be a useful tyhing, if it doesn't require me to immediately clean the gun within a few hours of shooting.

No I don't. The package I have makes no mention of it ("AMG Repriming Compound") and the .22reloader site is silent on the issue. I'm going with worst case scenario and believe it is corrosive.

There is this comment on the video:

as a black powder enthusiast it is handy to know how to make #11 caps, the tap capper device and aluminum cups will work, toy cap gun fillers will not. those really interested in making this work should study the art, don't even think to use fulminate mixes because it will amalgram with Al and quickly corrode. I believe Mr Nixon's formula is based on the well proven WW2 FH-42 priming compound, Winchester used to it to load billions of rounds, quite easy to make but suffers from souring when moisture is absorbed, thus the bicarb but it's going to deactivate anyway. Erwin Ott's 1921 patent for Sinoxid is a clue for those of you that want to get after it


Following up using "FH-42" as a search term, though not always found exactly, there is some interesting reading, including right here :




I don't think the guy is correct -- FH-42 wasn't a WWII formulation, but I do thank him for the search term which lead me to this on page 44 of "Chemical Analysis of Firearms, Ammunition, and Gunshot Residue" -- the 22reloader stuff and the stuff I have is a four component mixture, which may help narrow down what it's made of:

page44ChemAnalysisFirearmsAmmoAndResidue.png
 
You could anneal like many do for cases. You would obviously have to improvise a bit. I also wonder if spent 22 brass could be formed into a primer?

Not primers, but part of their process is to unfold the 22 rim so it can become the base of the bullet. They might be able to make a custom dies for the different primer cups.

 
As far as hardening of the cups, an anneal cycle would remedy that.
I have about 10# of spent primers in a jar. By accident, found they actually work pretty good in a wet tumble. It sure cleans the primers and anvils too!
Buddy did an automation project at a munitions factory, I think in MT. They hand filled artillery shell primers with priming compound in an explosion proof room, kept at 35°F. It was called "The Boom Tomb".
 
I made some test holes and nubs to make sure that between measurement error, software issues, machine error, and tool variability, the design matched reality. Good thing too because it didn't, as usual.

I also realized that blind holes for the primer cups is a bad idea -- they're hard to get out. So I'm going to make a primer cup grate so I can push them out when completed if they hang up a bit.
 
Pack of 1200 for $8 available on amazon. Some assembly required.



I have parts cutting and while killing time, I figured I should probably test out the cap-gun cap method too. Amazon is out of roll caps! There's this "bargain" on the plastic ring caps: https://www.amazon.com/Super-Bang-R...1&keywords=cap+gun+caps&qid=1606083428&sr=8-2

That works out to 10.2 cents per cap.

There's these plastic strip caps: https://www.amazon.com/Parris-Pull-...&keywords=cap+gun+caps&qid=1606083506&sr=8-28

A bit better at 5.6 cents per cap.

And that's it. Nothing else shows up in my search. It's kind of worrisome that toy caps are disappearing.
 

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