JavaScript is disabled
Our website requires JavaScript to function properly. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser settings before proceeding.
And I hope to add a pic of one of these of my own someday!
A Model 64 Deluxe in .30-30.

download.png
 
SpitPatch - ok. Ok, you convinced me you're no expert. :rolleyes:

So you're not a 10, more like a five or six - I get it. Well, consider where I'm at - 0 working up to a full 1. It'd be nice to have a real person to talk to. And besides, with a classy name like SpitPatch, I've gotta assume you're also into BP guns. I'm also just getting into those as well - and I don't have anyone to show me the ropes or give me a pat on the head. Nothing

Cool story, Zeke. The gun has some history (don't they all? - but this one's history is known) and that makes it even more special. But even without all that it's a really pretty piece.

I'm kind of afraid to talk to George at Treebone. I can see myself sliding down that slippery chute into a 400 dollar chunk of wood with a stock somewhere inside of it. I'm not sure I can afford two or three weeks solid cutting and filing and chiseling the stock out of it, because that's what happens when I get going on a project like that. Obsessed and that's all I'd do till it's done. It's bad enough bringing a 'new' gun home and messing with it for the next couple days getting everything right.

That Treebone site is a bad influence - it's already gotten me yearning for a Sharps - or possibly a cheaper alternative - a Whitworth. But then again, I've wanted a Whitworth ever since finding out about them in the late 80s. George suggests getting a Sharps action and getting one of his stocks to go with it. Of course I checked out the Sharps shop in MT, but didn't find the cost of the actions. Kinda scared to find out...
George sells 90% finished stocks. You just do the final fitting, or you hire someone to do it. A spare butt stock for my rolling block in standard grade, quarter sawn walnut at 90% finished was about $250. A few hours of fine tuning and it was near perfect. But yeah, money was not a consideration in my project so I hired the best there was at the time. Jim Dubell was a master gun maker and a member of the American Custom Gunmakers Guild. He did most of the metal work. Since Jim passed away a few years back there aren't many examples of his work available. He did send my rifle off the Jim Turnbull for color case hardening. Here are some samples of Turnbull's work:

 
Doug does some gorgeous work. I can tell just looking it's way beyond my pay grade. I am curious how the checkering is done - never thought about that before.

I attacked the sights today and really don't think the DRIFTER would have gotten the job done. Those things were IN THERE !!!! I used a piece of 3/8" copper rod, D shaped on one end. It bent the D section to the side. I have some aluminum rod - maybe 1/2" that had about 1/2" of the end turned down to about 1/4". That bent and got a bit mushed before either sight came out.

I carefully cleaned up the bashed area on both sights and re-blued the now shiny areas. Looks much better!

Cleaned up the dovetails on the barrel and the sights, plus oiled them and they went back in where they belonged. There's a white diamond below the U on the rear sight missing most of the white paint. I'll touch that up next time.

Looking better all the time.
 
Ebay has many parts for 1894 1892 Winchesters there is a nice carbine buttstock on there now. as a general rule if your gun has ramp front sight it will have the shotgun Butt plate. unless it has been re barreled. 1894 and 1892 wood is the same.
 
Thanks for the tip, Fred. Looks like a couple of those would work. I was given a post 64 shotgun stock in need of help - a crack from the lower butt plate fixing screw forward. And then there's an epoxy-looking fix at the point where the crack would finish up. Not pretty but think I can clean it up to look good and work well also. But if I can snag one of those on ebay reasonably, that would make more sense.
 
The sight drifter looks like a handy tool. What I like about it is the control of where the force is applied. When using a drift, there are many more variables, plus when holding the drift it's not held right up against the metal. I'm pretty good at doing things solo that normally require 3.5 hands, so I'll try it the hard way before springing for this cool gadget. It does look like it would work well for those pins that need to come out to disassemble the gun.

Yeah, Mike :oops: I know - and I apologize. I'll study up and try to correct this horrible outness asap. It aint no fun wifout fotos. I know...:(
what works for sight driftng is plastic handle screw driver,if it is a good one. hold plastic head on sight and hammer on the pointed end of screw driver. wont mark or damage the sight.
 
also have 5 model 1894 rifles one new and 4 old. my oldest one is 1897 25 35. newest one is cabelas 38 55, it was so pretty i couldn't pass it up. my favorites are half round half octagon. 1 30wcf 1 32 spc. one was 30wcf octagon rebored by JES to 38 55 it had holes drilled for scope mount so i thought it was OK to modify. my old 25 35 will ring the 200 yard gong at the range 3 out of five shots, it is old weathered with almost all bluing gone round barrel and shortend mag tube but it still has a nice bore. like it was carried a lot, but shot very little.
 
That's what I've done - drift the sight over with some hardwood dowel or hard plastic rod. No need for a special tool.

I was just down your way in Cottage Grove last week picking up a Browning (1886 Winchester commemorative). Big, heavy, beautiful gun!

Sounds like you've got a Winchester addiction. :)

Mine originally had a Carbine butt, but was cut back to within 1/2" of where the heel of the butt plate was inletted. That's how I can tell. Then a piece was added to return the LOP to original with a rubber recoil pad. I really want to replace it with another carbine butt stock.
 
Ok ok - I'll study up on posting photos.

I finally found an unfinished (raw) carbine butt stock on ebay for $50. Helluva deal!

Then the search was on for a butt plate. Found a reproduction at the gun store in Forest Grove, but wasn't real excited about it. It didn't fit all that close and felt a bit like a stamped piece of steel, which it was. A week later I bought an original in very good condition for ten bucks more on ebay. Now it's waiting for me to start the carving, fitting and finishing process. I haven't done anything like this before, and after all it took finding the wood, I don't want to screw it up.

I hate the idea of spending ten to twenty bucks for two screws. As is my style, I'll figure out how to reproduce something original. Looks to me like a standard domed slotted screw with the edge of the head cut down a little. I have measurements for the diameter, length and width of the head. Just need to find the screws - none at the Forest Grove Ace. (or is it True Value?) I'm sure Parkrose Hardware would have them but I don't get out that way very often.
 

Similar threads

Upcoming Events

Tillamook Gun & Knife Show
Tillamook, OR
"The Original" Kalispell Gun Show
Kalispell, MT
Teen Rifle 1 Class
Springfield, OR
Kids Firearm Safety 2 Class
Springfield, OR

New Resource Reviews

New Classified Ads

Back Top