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Going to start the paperwork on this S&W 329PD later today.

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Sweet looking gun, but I'd be stuffing it with .44 Special rounds. I'm not that old and frail, but when it comes to that .44 Magnum Airlite - I am. Or maybe I've just read too many of @The Heretic 's posts on that particular gun. :D

I picked it up on a Friday and got a chance to shoot it that afternoon. Not all went well as it has an issue with light primer strikes and only fired about 1/2 of the rounds we put into the gun. We (my grandson and I) put a few rounds of both 44 Mag and Special through it. The 44 Mag ammo was 240gr at 1180fps. No slouch, but not the hottest. I don't think it recoils any harder than the Model 69 I had, however I don't doubt @The Heretic 's comments about painful recoil with heavy loads. There's just not much mass to the gun.
I'm going to reserve judgement on grips, but I may change to round butt of similar construction.
Right now the gun is going back to S&W to deal with the ignition problem.
 
I don't think it recoils any harder than the Model 69 I had, however I don't doubt @The Heretic 's comments about painful recoil with heavy loads. There's just not much mass to the gun.
I was referring to my 329 (scandium frame & titanium cylinder and has a 4" barrel) which is 10+ ounces lighter than the 69 which is all stainless steel and has a 6" barrel.

Believe me - the 329 will cause carpal tunnel with repeated shots, and will numb your hand with on shot, when using full power loads of any sort.
 
I was referring to my 329 (scandium frame & titanium cylinder and has a 4" barrel) which is 10+ ounces lighter than the 69 which is all stainless steel and has a 6" barrel.

Believe me - the 329 will cause carpal tunnel with repeated shots, and will numb your hand with on shot, when using full power loads of any sort.
I know you were, as was I. The Model 69 was listed as a comparison to the 329 which I recently acquired.
The Model 69 has a 4.125" barrel.
 
I picked it up on a Friday and got a chance to shoot it that afternoon. Not all went well as it has an issue with light primer strikes and only fired about 1/2 of the rounds we put into the gun. We (my grandson and I) put a few rounds of both 44 Mag and Special through it. The 44 Mag ammo was 240gr at 1180fps. No slouch, but not the hottest. I don't think it recoils any harder than the Model 69 I had, however I don't doubt @The Heretic 's comments about painful recoil with heavy loads. There's just not much mass to the gun.
I'm going to reserve judgement on grips, but I may change to round butt of similar construction.
Right now the gun is going back to S&W to deal with the ignition problem.
Light primer strikes many times can be solved with a good cleaning and lubricating with a light oil
 
Top is a model 19-3 born 1975. Bottom is a model 27-2 born 1976. Both 6-in 357 Magnum
Both of them have the three T's.

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Light primer strikes many times can be solved with a good cleaning and lubricating with a light oil

I'm curious, how can cleaning and lubricant potentially solve light primer strikes? I have tons of revolvers but am not mechanically minded and found your comment surprising. Thanks!
 
I'm curious, how can cleaning and lubricant potentially solve light primer strikes? I have tons of revolvers but am not mechanically minded and found your comment surprising. Thanks!
Greece and leftover gunk can slow the hammerfall. I have solved the light primer problems with lubricating and cleaning. And I have also had to change the main spring. Some competition shooters tune their revolvers so that they will only set off Federal primers.
 
I'm curious, how can cleaning and lubricant potentially solve light primer strikes? I have tons of revolvers but am not mechanically minded and found your comment surprising. Thanks!
I bought a SS Marlin XT22. I tested it and it was having light primer strikes about half the time.

So I took the bolt out and soaked in a solvent and then in some alcohol. After that it had no problems and I sprayed some light oil in the bolt and tested it again - no problems. It had some grease from the factory inside the bolt.

Same can happen to any firearm.
 
I'm curious, how can cleaning and lubricant potentially solve light primer strikes? I have tons of revolvers but am not mechanically minded and found your comment surprising. Thanks!
I know it's possible to get a crud build up under the transfer bar for those so equipped. This can cause light primer strikes and is a spot easily missed in a general cleaning.
 
I'm curious, how can cleaning and lubricant potentially solve light primer strikes? I have tons of revolvers but am not mechanically minded and found your comment surprising. Thanks!
Ron is 100% correct. The gun could indeed have a problem requiring service or it *could* easily be that you just need to strip it down and clean it. Many folks are (and certain people SHOULD be) intimidated by a revolver's internals and never have the courage to pull the side plate for a good cleaning. Others use grease (or--horrors!--WD-40) rather than light gun oil, both of which can gum up and render the action very undependable.
Check out videos on YouTube first. Once you've done it a couple of times it's really not a big deal. Just make sure you have proper screwdrivers, and do NOT *pry* the sideplate off.
 
I updated the grips on my little Charter Arms Target Bulldog .357 in order to preserve the originals. Altimont made a set specifically for the revolver so, I figured I would see how they looked. Not too shabby IMHO!

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The only time I've walked into the Cabela's gun room and left with a gun. Cimaron Pistolero in 357, $399. Today was a good day!

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The start of my wheelgun collection...
-S&W model 629 with 4 inch barrel in .44mag
-S&W model 627 with 4 inch barrel 8 shot .357 magnum
-Kimber k6s 2inch snubby 6 shot .357 magnum
-Ruger gp100 also in 357 magnum with a 4 inch barrel
-Last photo top to bottom
-kimber k6s
-S&W 686+ Talo .357 mag 7 shot 7inch barrel
-Ruger wrangler .22lr single action 6 shot
-Ruger gp100 10shots of .22lr

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