Polish the feed ramp

[Kimber Custom]

Is there any trick to polishing the feed ramp?

It sounds straight forward but there's always that fear of screwing something up.

Any tips or suggestions you all willing to share?

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[LCspeedsteel]

mothers wheel polish and a dremel... and if you ever have issues with a gun being too tight... put that polish on the tight contact points when you go to shoot. it will break it in for ya

 

[wichaka]

Noooooooooooooo! Uh, did I make my point?

The best thing one can do with a dremel is throw it on the road and run it over a few times with a vehicle of your choosing!

Very few 1911's these days don't come with the feed ramp ready to go. Kimber and many others come polished and ready to go.

The 1911 is a controlled feed process, and it also relies on some resistance to get that job done reliably.

If one looks over the feeding process in detail, you'll find if the 1911 in question is feeding properly, the round will hit the frame ramp about the top 1/3-1/4 only. It does not hit that low on the frame ramp, thus most polishing is all for not. But in some cases polishing can change the ramp angle, or shorten the frame-barrel gap enough to cause problems that weren't there before.

I find very few 1911's that ever need a polished feed ramp, and that includes original Colts dating back to the early years.

So proceed with caution. I can't remember all the money I've made from people with dremels.

If you still feel the need to polish the ramp. Take a standard pencil, wrap some fine emry cloth around it (400+ grit) and give it a few swipes, going with the direction the round feeds.
You need not take out the machining marks. If they are deep, then you will end up changing the ramp angle. Just smooth things up, that's all it takes.

What's more important, is the barrel ramp and throat. Smooth that out, and just...and I do mean 'just' take the sharp edge off where the barrel ramp meets the chamber.

 

[HappyRoman]

Great advice. Sometimes, even, or better yet.. check out the magazines you are using, no the one's your reading.. the lips on them might be bent or misshaped. If one mag works better than another compare closely. Good Luck

 

[Kimber Custom]

Thanks for a caution. I'm glad I asked

I've been noticing 1-2 FTF for every 50 rounds or so. I just replaced the recoil spring thinking that might help. My last trip the range I tried a brand new mag and still had issues.

 

[LCspeedsteel]

a dremel with a buffing head is perfectly safe... they use them on womens fingernails afterall

 

[wichaka]

The FTF could be caused by an improper tuned or too tight extractor, or a number of other things. But find the extractor the most often cause.

Does it have an internal or external type?

 

[wichaka]

mothers wheel polish and a dremel... and if you ever have issues with a gun being too tight... put that polish on the tight contact points when you go to shoot. it will break it in for ya

I didn't mean to step on your toes with your post here.

Have had many a explanation from people saying..."Well, I didn't exactly have what they said I should use, so I went with what I had."

So I just avoid the dremel thing with people as much as possible. Anything that can be ruined, will be ruined faster with a tool spinning at several thousand RPM's!

 

[Kimber Custom]

The FTF could be caused by an improper tuned or too tight extractor, or a number of other things. But find the extractor the most often cause.

Does it have an internal or external type?

Not sure I know the difference. It is a Kimber Compact 4" 1911 .45. The extractor is on the right side of the firing pin and runs the full length of the firing pin housing.

Didn't even know the extractor wasn't a part of the forged frame until I replaced the firing pin spring and couldn't figure out why I couldn't reseat the plate that holds the firing pin in place. The extractor was out of alignment just enough to keep the plate from sliding back in place.

It does extract 100%. I just have to coax the next round in from time to time.

 

[wichaka]

There's too much pressure pushing on the case rim as the round from the magazine slides up underneath the extractor hook.

If I was closer I would say drop by and I'll get ya fixed up, no charge...but am up river 60+ miles.

But if ya don't mind the drive, a border collie and my turbo coffee...you're welcome to drop by the shop.

 

[wichaka]

Here's a pic of a Kimber, with an external extractor. But yours sounds like the original designed internal type.

<broken link removed>

 

[Kimber Custom]

Mine does not look like that. I assume that would make it internal.

I may take you up on that offer. I travel to Sumner for work upon occasion and I may just find an excuse in the next week or two

 

[wichaka]

Up river, I mean th Columbia River east of you...across from Hood River.

 

[bnr32gtr]

To the OP, what mags are you using? I did not see that covered anywhere.

I have a 4" Kimber that will feed with any mag but is dead reliable with Wilson mags. Just for that, I do a majority of my practice with junk mags so I have practice clearing malfunctions and use the Wilson's for carry use and 25&#37; of training.

 

[Kimber Custom]

Up river, I mean th Columbia River east of you...across from Hood River.

Even easier, I go to Yakima more often than Sumner

To the OP, what mags are you using? I did not see that covered anywhere.

I have a 4" Kimber that will feed with any mag but is dead reliable with Wilson mags. Just for that, I do a majority of my practice with junk mags so I have practice clearing malfunctions and use the Wilson's for carry use and 25% of training.

I have two factory mags and one that I picked up at a gun show. The two factory are shooting star. The gun show was a bulk mag.

 

[9mmD]

Not sure I know the difference. It is a Kimber Compact 4" 1911 .45. The extractor is on the right side of the firing pin and runs the full length of the firing pin housing.

Didn't even know the extractor wasn't a part of the forged frame until I replaced the firing pin spring and couldn't figure out why I couldn't reseat the plate that holds the firing pin in place. The extractor was out of alignment just enough to keep the plate from sliding back in place.

It does extract 100&#37;. I just have to coax the next round in from time to time.

I have a kimber ultra carry II and it does the exact same thing as yours does. Try'd few different kinds of ammo and didnt change. I called kimber and they said it is still to new and needs 500rnds to "break in". You would think for as much $ as kimbers are they shouldn't need a break in period.
For the record mine has gotten better from 20 rnds to 200rnds. Seems better using kimber "pro" 8rnd mags instead of the factory 7rnd. Still haven't got to the 500 yet.

 

[bnr32gtr]

Even easier, I go to Yakima more often than Sumner



I have two factory mags and one that I picked up at a gun show. The two factory are shooting star. The gun show was a bulk mag.

Toss the gun show bulk mags and sell the Shooting Star mags. You'll thank me after buying some Wilson's. I tried them all, including the Kimber Tactical mags and still had issues.

Tried two Wilson Combat mags and have never looked back. They aren't super cheap but what's your life worth to you?

huntpotter here on the NWFA forum usually has some in stock. I've picked up several from him.

 

[SSG]

The beutifull thing about owning a 1911 = Everyone has to become a gunsmith eventualy.