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Discussion in 'Ammunition & Reloading' started by warren57, Apr 12, 2013.
can anyone tell me if copper plated bullets load from the chart for lead?
Consider them jacketed when searching for loads.
From my experience plated bullets fall between lead and jacket load data.
The plating thickness varies from different makers, and most say to start with lead data.
Myself I start low and work up.
The cartridge your loading makes a difference. Sooo what are you loading with plated bullets ?
Most of the plated bullets I've used have a "speed limit" from the manufacturer. I agree with "jib" that they're neither lead, nor jacketed, when it comes to selecting loading data.
I've contacted the bullet makers in several instances and they've either e-mailed or snail-mailed load data for their bullets.
I've stopped using plated bullets after a long bout with "wrinkled jackets". It appeared that the maker was trying to cut costs of the expensive copper and not applying as much as was necessary.
Today? You takes what you can get
As far as I have been able to see, plated bullets are to be loaded like lead (in one case the makers waffle and say to sorta kinda load like lead, maybe, it's up to you) and only one company who make plated bullets I know of publishes actual load data on the internet.............
I have only dealt with Berry and Rainier in the past, and loaded a few thousand of their bullets, so my experience may be more limited than some other posters on the site. I've recently begun loading some HSM plated .357 bullets I bought because my usual Berry 158s were not available. I load a jacketed 158 in my carry gun and have had to load the same expensive bullet with which to practice, as the plated offerings I have found had no cannelure and that caused problems in my little J frame Chief's Special. I have no problems when shooting the same un-cannelured bullets in a heavier 686. The HSMs have a cannelure--not much of one but enough to keep the bullets seated when shooting my J frame for practice. Crimping the plated un-cannelured bullets did not work for me as a light crimp was not sufficient to keep the bullets seated and a heavy one deforned the bullet.
You may find these links to be helpful:
Rainier Ballistics, LLC | Load Data
Berry's Frequently Asked Questions â?? FAQ's
http://thehuntingshack.com/catalog/retail/Load Data Plated and Cast bullets.pdf
I have bought some few items from HSM besides these bullets in the past and have been very happy with them. I have all the bullets for pistol and revolver use I need for this year and on into the next since the rainy season is about to let up and I'll be shooting at the rifle range only for a while, but when I go to order more bullets for the handguns next fall, I will be looking at the HSM offerings first, I think.
I'll throw in with the "Load Plated As Lead" crowd. I really like the HSM brand plated bullets BUT - after shooting many in 9MM, .38/.357 I really do not see any specific advantage over un-plated hard cast lead other than appearance possibly. I guess the argument could be made they prevent leading but I get no leading from any of the Laser Cast brand I have been using for years.
For certain calibers I tend to prefer plated (9mm, 40) however, much of their performance depends on how thick the plating is, in general I always load plated near the bottom of the scale. Every time I start to load them even slightly hot, accuracy really suffers.
Load them as lead, or low range jacketed data and do not apply maximum crimps as the plating is thin and overcrimping can tear the plating as it comes out of the case and then you suffer loss of seal as the bullet travels down the barrel with the expanding gasses. What are you loading for?
I agree, I taper crimp all plated bullets for revolver and pistol. A roll crimp will easily cut the plating and leave bits of copper in the cylinder/forcing cone and bore.