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Outboard Motor Flywheel Removal Help

Discussion in 'Off Topic' started by RVTECH, Apr 24, 2013.

  1. RVTECH

    RVTECH LaPine Well-Known Member

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    I am attempting to remove the flywheel on my Force 50 HP outboard and it will not budge! I have a puller, have tried heat, penetrating oil all the normal and proper procedures but I probably have a 150 Ft. lbs on the puller bolt and it will not move. If anyone has specific experience with outboard flywheel removal and has experienced anything like this please advise. I have disassembled many tapered shaft mechanical parts and never had them remain this tight and resist movement, especially when using a puller and heat.
     
  2. xlsbob

    xlsbob coos county Platinum Supporter Platinum Supporter

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    It's been a long time but I remember get tension on it and hit the side of the flywheel with a deadblow hammer somewhere it wont do damage. The shock usually makes it pop loose.
     
  3. Bigbaddude

    Bigbaddude West linn Oregon Bronze Supporter Bronze Supporter

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    Let it soak in penetrating fluid over night. I prefer Blaster. Then use a 1/2 impact on it and it should move. Sometimes if you use heat throw some cold water on it and the shock will break it loose.
    Good luck
     
  4. RVTECH

    RVTECH LaPine Well-Known Member

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    I got it off! Thanks for the replies. I was taking the extremely safe route but I did some reading up on it and I was on the right track but just needed to be a little more aggressive. The trick is to leave the puller cranked on tight, apply light heat to the area and an occasional 'firm' - but not too heavy rap on the puller bolt. I was avoiding this part due to the possibility of bearing damage but it seems it is usually necessary. Most people get impatient and start wailing way on the end of the crankshaft (and don't have a puller) and cause bearing damage.
     
  5. jbett98

    jbett98 NW Oregon Bronze Supporter Bronze Supporter

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    Another "Force" motor factoid, is never ground one of the spark plugs against the engine block and crank over the motor to check for a spark.
    Apparently it destroys the electronic ignition system and they are hard to find and not cheap when you do.
    Cost me over $285.00 to learn that lesson.
     
  6. michaels

    michaels oregon Active Member

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    jbett, thanks for the lesson.

    I'll try to sneak in under the "memorial eis" scholarship.

    I could fill this whole site with mechanical lessons I learned the hard way.

    But I don't have the guts too.
     
  7. jbett98

    jbett98 NW Oregon Bronze Supporter Bronze Supporter

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    I winterize my 85hp Force a couple of years ago, instead of letting my boat mechanic do it.
    When I put the engine cover back on, I accidentally bent the brass rod that connects the choke on all three carbs.
    I went fishing the next spring, and it would run fine until the motor warmed up and it would dog down like it was flooding.
    That's when I decided to check the plugs spark.
    What I didn't know was that you have to use an arc gap tool that you hook your plug wires to, then attach the other leads to your spark plug.
    There are carbon points that the spark jumps across and gives the right amount of resistance to the coils.
    My mechanic just loves it when I try to repair my motor without his guidance. He says that I am his retirement plan.
     
  8. RVTECH

    RVTECH LaPine Well-Known Member

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    Well my problem turned out to be the one piece magnet inside the flywheel was loose, must likely the cause of my intermittent spark problem. Fortunately mine is only loose and not destroyed so I can glue it back in. Seems to be a common problem and not with just outboards but almost any flywheel with glued in magnets.
     
  9. Sling Blade

    Sling Blade Yamhill County Well-Known Member

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    What kind of glue do you use for this? Thanks!