Oiling Springfield M1A stock

M_in_NW · Feb 22, 2010

Hello,

I am new to the forum and have few questions to start things off. I have a NM Springfield M1A and was interested in putting a new oil finish on the stock. First, any ideas on whether I should go with the boiled linseed or Tung oil. I would rather not have a glossy finish but instead more of a nice flat/satin finish that would bring out alot of the dark grain in the wood and still maintain the GI spec look.

Also, because this is a NM rifle, I would rather not remove the barrel action from the stock and therefore possibly damage the bedding. Should I have any concerns about attempting this with the barrel action in place? Has anyone tried this before? Thanks in advance for the feedback.

Natty Bumpo · Feb 22, 2010

I can't speak to the removal of the barrel, etc.

But I can speak to finishing wood. If the wood you have has a film finish (like varnish) it must be removed prior to applying another finish. Typically the varnish is stripped or sanded away down to bare wood. Start sanding with about 120 grit (maybe a tad coarser) and progress to 150 and then maybe to 180 or 220 before applying a finish. The idea is to remove any varnish and to create a uniform texture to which to apply the finish. Then you apply the finish of your choice to the bare wood. If you don't know if you have varnish (many mil-rifles do), pm me and I will explain how to perform a varnish-test.

Boiled linseed oil tends to darken wood. It will darken it much more than it already is. Tung oil less so. Any oil will dull- out over time and will need to be renewed with more oil from time to time. Pure oils also take forever to dry and to cure. And that is their major disadvantage. Their advantage is that they are very easy to apply. Just wipe on oil and that's it. Over bare wood or over a previously oiled surface. But not over a film finish. That won't work.

Oil finishes, such as BLO and pure tung oil (not tung oil blends) do not create "glossy". Oil/varnish blends can. Film finishes, such as varnish, lacquer, shellac, etc do.... unless silica flattening agents are added to the mix to make them "satin". You can also achieve "satin" by rubbing down any glossy finish with 4/0 steel wool.

Oil finishes offer very little "protection" to the wood from "the elements", although unless you are subjecting the stock to hard outdoor use (like the military used to do when wood stocks were standard), I wouldn't worry about it too much.

If you want something out of a can that affords modest protection with decent good looks that is also easy to appy, I recommend a wiping oil/varnish blend such as Minwax Antique Oil, which consists of tung oil, a long-oil varnish and mineral spirits as a thinner. It has the better characteristics of both oil and varnish and the disadvantages of neither. It is more or less boob-proof and can be hand applied with a rag. Follow the directions on the can. Wipe on/off multiple coats (3-6) until you like what you see. Do not let it tack up, but wipe it dry. Apply multiple Light Coats, rather than fewer Heavy Coats (like many do). If it ends up drying too glossy for your tastes, go over the entire stock with 4/0 wool and knock down the gloss. If you de-gloss it too much, add another coat or two. The gloss will creep up on you so you can quit whenever you want.

Bon Sauvage · Feb 22, 2010

I would go with the CMP recomendations:

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Natty Bumpo · Feb 22, 2010

ogre said:
I would go with the CMP recomendations:

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Good info at this link. I would concur with most of it.

Ding · Feb 22, 2010

tape up the upper and barrel with some blue tape if you don't want to remove it.use BLO,if you want it satin or dull that is just buff it with 0000 steel wool when done and dry.you control the finish shine or lack of with the steel wool .