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Machinegun brass...:s0124:

Im half-way through an 18 pound 5.56 range-brass project now; small base resized and de-primed.

Trimming them to 1.760"; 100 cases at a time...

One thing I notice when decapping civilian .223 brass for the first re-use; where the milspec brass has very little resistance when the decapping pin is raised out of the case, the civilian brass has much, much-more resistance on the internal sizing component of the pin....

Maybe milspec brass is easier on the decapping pin withdrawl because of the anealing...:s0092:

Fun
I heard the pressure for the newer "green" (not green-tip) 556 is off the chart hot and would likely open up primer pockets.
 
I heard the pressure for the newer "green" (not green-tip) 556 is off the chart hot and would likely open up primer pockets.

Wow, news to me. Handloading milspec is getting more complicated; before long, we will need a multi-meter or some other electronic gizmo...

There are some sealed milspec 5.56 primers that break my decapping pins every time; cases with primers with a wide-dark red sealant go straight into the scrap bucket.

:s0109:
 
I don't own one. But......

I thought that the Dillon trimmer could trim and resize rifle cases at the same time. If so.....why separate the two steps?

OK, Ok, ok.......I can see if it's just how you like to do things.

Aloha, Mark

So....it left me thinking....
1) Initial wash to get the dirt off. Dry.
2) Decap. Using a universal decapper.
3) Lube.
4) Run through Dillon resize/trimmer.
5) Wash again to de-lube and get rid of metal shavings. Dry.
6) Continue as usual.
 
Last Edited:
Edit: I usually lube inside the case necks of civilian brass with a q tip; 1 case neck of every 5.
I used to try that, a very light film of wax inside necks. Then changed to wiping the actual expander ball. I became paranoid that I was leaving wax inside the brass and it would affect my powder. Since switching to coconut oil/isopropyl, where I wipe the expander ball every 20 or so cases, I do not worry at all about my powder.

There are some sealed milspec 5.56 primers that break my decapping pins every time; cases with primers with a wide-dark red sealant go straight into the scrap bucket.
Yeah, I hate that! Nothing like breaking your last Lee or RCBS decapping pin. Used to tighten the Lee then back it off, thinking it would release and slide instead of breaking a pin. Delusional.
Over the years, have learned that I don't need to reef on the press ram - finesse it. I'll find a highly resistant primer, apply a slightly higher force, and if it give, pull the case and toss. If it has given some, I won't be able to slide the brass out of the shell holder. Then I know for sure it's not Berdan primed, and slowly apply more pressure until the primer cup is ejected.

OK, Ok, ok.......I can see if it's just how you like to do things.
Yep, Zen and the Art of Reloading.
 
Since you guys are going into detail about your method, I'll throw mine out there (what's worked well for me).

Decap the rifle brass

Throw into the Frankford Arsenal wet tumbler with SS pins and cleaning solution (your choice)

Separate pins from brass (your method)

Lay brass out on a towel and roll it back and forth to remove excess water

Place brass on a cookie sheet in the oven for 20-30 min @ 200 deg

Remove from oven and allow to cool

Squirt a few squirts of lube into a shot glass (not for drinking :D )

Dip the necks into the shot glass of lube to ensure the inside of the necks are getting proper lubrication

Grab a big zip lock bag throw 100 or so into it, spray it with a few squirts of my home made lube mixture (99% iso and liquid lanolin your choice of ratio)

Roll brass around to make sure cases are 100% covered

Dump out into an open container and let sit for 30 min to overnight to allow ISO to evaporate leaving the lanolin only on the cases

Resize (use your choice of expander)

Throw back into the Frankford Arsenal wet tumbler with cleaner to remove lubricant

Separate and dry as before

Trim if necessary

Anneal if necessary
 
I've experienced and measured crooked necks and seen the runout caused by lack of proper lubrication when pulling the expander ball back through the neck after it's been resized.

When properly lubed, there is little to no runout caused during the resizing process.
 
My process for rifle brass.
1. Clean brass in tumbler.
2. Lube with home made case lube. Works better than Dillon lube. Lay brass out in a tray and spray.
Make sure most case mouths pointed to get some lube inside case mouth. Let dry 10 minutes.
Make Your Own Case Lube – Ultimate Reloader
3. Send through Dillon 550 size and decap. Lay on towel spray with water and wipe off lube.
4. Trim with WFT trimmer. Very little material left to chamfer and deburr.
5. RCBS prep center. Clean and uniform primer pocket. Chamfer / deburr case mouth.
Brass is now ready to load. Since it is already sized when it goes into the Dillon 550
I skip sizing the brass. Match grade ammo. :rolleyes: Some powders I will weigh each charge
other powders that meter consistent I use powder thrower. Process has changed through the years. I have been reloading since 1979.:eek:
 
de crimping primer pockets is what i dislike the most

I hear ya, I hate seeing all the brass shavings on my Lyman case prep center... that pile there is from about 400 rounds of 223/556.

20180316_174745_001.jpg

Going to check our the RCBS primer pocket swagger VERY SOON.....
 

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