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There are really only 2 classes - open and base. If your gun and scope msrp for, I think, 1200 or less than you can go base. If not, welcome to open.
If you don't have a bag, just ask to borrow one from someone in your squad - it's a nice group and your shoot one at a time anyway. Bipods are nice to have for some courses but not required.
It's all in good fun, don't worry about skill. You'll get better as time goes on and you do more matches.
I'm zeroed at 50yds and have no adjustability to go below that. But, NRL cof will push you to just use holdovers anyway for the time savings.
I would worry that 7x magnification wouldn't be enough to help me hit, say, a 5" target at 175yds. But, my philosophy has always been: mo scope mo bettah. (I use a 6-24).
Unless things have changed, the cof at TCGC was usually the nearer option. But, it's been awhile now since I've been out there. @Reno would know better.
If you don't have a bag, just ask to borrow one from someone in your squad - it's a nice group and your shoot one at a time anyway. Bipods are nice to have for some courses but not required.
It's all in good fun, don't worry about skill. You'll get better as time goes on and you do more matches.
I'm zeroed at 50yds and have no adjustability to go below that. But, NRL cof will push you to just use holdovers anyway for the time savings.
I would worry that 7x magnification wouldn't be enough to help me hit, say, a 5" target at 175yds. But, my philosophy has always been: mo scope mo bettah. (I use a 6-24).
Unless things have changed, the cof at TCGC was usually the nearer option. But, it's been awhile now since I've been out there. @Reno would know better.
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I can bring a spare bag you can use. As well as a bipod. Do you have a rail section our way to mount a bipod? You can get away with a large front bag and a rear bag too. This month there are two prone stages where a solid set up might be crucial.
NRL is usually two types of stages.
Lots of targets and no movement, or a few targets down to only 1 and lots of moving.
The Jan stages are pretty easy looking from my experiences. That does not mean they are easy. There are 3 moving stages and 2 prone. The prone sound easy, but they aren't. One of the two simply has 4 targets at 100 yards. The 1" being worth the most. IE if your gun can't shoot a 1" group or better, you may choose to shoot at the bigger targets that your rifle can actually hit. Be it for less points overall though.
Your gear is fine. You should be able to get by in base class with it. More rules on what classes are in the first pages of the COF.
Print this. Bring it with. Practice if you can. I practiced the ladder and chair in the garage. A little muscle memory won't hurt once it's your turn. It helps having an idea how you'll rest the gun and move it. Mine weighs a bunch so I like having an idea of how I'll be moving it and placing it on the obstacle.
Being semi. You'll need to transition with the safety ON and call out SAFE when moving. Being Tri County, moving means muzzle stays flat and pointed down range at all times. No raising the muzzle above the berm. Your squad will assist with this and no one usually gets DQd on their first offense unless the person chooses to make a deal out of it type thing.
Zero at 50. That's the usual. Learn your FPS if possible and download a ballistic app for your dopes. I use one called shooter. If you don't have a chronograph you can simply zero at 50. Then shoot to 100 on paper and you'll know your drop. Math, or a ballistic app can help you determine the speed and BC. Temperature changes this too. Your drop might change as it gets warmer. The wind can be a fun thing at times too. Those things come later. Don't worry too much about all that the first go.
Otherwise, if you haven't already, get signed up over at practice score. There is no cost to sign up, the match is only $5 cash at the time of the match. I'm currently on squad 1 which looks to be full, but if you can get in on 1 come find me. I'll have the only red chassis on the entire line.
Just checked. Only 3 spots open for the January match. So sign up fast if you want to shoot.
NRL is usually two types of stages.
Lots of targets and no movement, or a few targets down to only 1 and lots of moving.
The Jan stages are pretty easy looking from my experiences. That does not mean they are easy. There are 3 moving stages and 2 prone. The prone sound easy, but they aren't. One of the two simply has 4 targets at 100 yards. The 1" being worth the most. IE if your gun can't shoot a 1" group or better, you may choose to shoot at the bigger targets that your rifle can actually hit. Be it for less points overall though.
Your gear is fine. You should be able to get by in base class with it. More rules on what classes are in the first pages of the COF.
Print this. Bring it with. Practice if you can. I practiced the ladder and chair in the garage. A little muscle memory won't hurt once it's your turn. It helps having an idea how you'll rest the gun and move it. Mine weighs a bunch so I like having an idea of how I'll be moving it and placing it on the obstacle.
Being semi. You'll need to transition with the safety ON and call out SAFE when moving. Being Tri County, moving means muzzle stays flat and pointed down range at all times. No raising the muzzle above the berm. Your squad will assist with this and no one usually gets DQd on their first offense unless the person chooses to make a deal out of it type thing.
Zero at 50. That's the usual. Learn your FPS if possible and download a ballistic app for your dopes. I use one called shooter. If you don't have a chronograph you can simply zero at 50. Then shoot to 100 on paper and you'll know your drop. Math, or a ballistic app can help you determine the speed and BC. Temperature changes this too. Your drop might change as it gets warmer. The wind can be a fun thing at times too. Those things come later. Don't worry too much about all that the first go.
Otherwise, if you haven't already, get signed up over at practice score. There is no cost to sign up, the match is only $5 cash at the time of the match. I'm currently on squad 1 which looks to be full, but if you can get in on 1 come find me. I'll have the only red chassis on the entire line.
Just checked. Only 3 spots open for the January match. So sign up fast if you want to shoot.
TCGC NRL22 | PractiScore
practiscore.com
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Another thing, if you don't have an auto bolt release. It might help not messing around with the dongle on the side trying to drop the bolt on start. You can buy or modify your own to release. Your bolt must be locked back on start.
Damn, got popular! Wish I was still out there. For being "the south" - gun culture was so much better in Oregon.
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I'll bring a big front bag you can use as a bipod of sorts on the prone stages.
Most of the competitors are also super chill and will likely go out of their way to help you with anything too.
See you Sunday.
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As much as I felt NV, when I lived there (aka not blue or even purple), I thought it was a pretty good gun state. Even with its physical border with California being California's largest boarder, NV was pretty good. Then I moved to Oregon, and the culture here is quite significant if not larger.
Also, is VA considered southern? I always thought anything below NC and TN was "the south".
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If it were me, I would practice getting in and out of the 4 basic shooting positions. Standing, sitting, kneeling, and prone. Those don't have to be practiced on the range. But 15 min each day just getting in and out of those positions will have you well on your way to making effective shots and knowing which one to use for each stage. This is like dryfire practice for pistol games.
You asked about what else you can do? find a good supply of subsonic ammo that your gun will shoot well. And practice with the ammo you will use in a match. Out of my gun Federal AM is subsonic, but it has a 26" barrel. You will have to test your own gun and ammo. Good Luck, It's a fun game! DR
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- #12
What is the benefit of subsonic ammo in this scenario?
.22 LR can get a bit wobbly in transonic flight - making accuracy at distance hard to obtain. Stay subsonic and you don't have to worry about that, only the bullet drop.
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- #14
I will have to do some testing, I know some subsonic have trouble cycling in semis
It's not about choosing "the subsonic ammo" but about making sure the round stays subsonic after shooting it. Many supers won't make it that fast in most pistols, for example. I think I read somewhere that most .22LR burns up all it's powder in 20" of barrel - so for @dangerranger60 's 26", the last 6" the round is actually slowing down.
My 10/22 didn't have any issues with rounds rated for 1070fps (CCI Target Clean, SK Long, etc) - these aren't marketed as "subsonic" rounds but aren't fast enough to be supers.
Definitely give CCI Target Clean a run - my 10/22 absolutely loved them. On par with SK Long but a lot cheaper. (Note, this was a KIDD barrel)
Also, depending on how far you want to mod things…if you find a great ammo but are having cycling issues, you can pick up a lighter weight recoil spring and lighter weight bolt handle - which may help the cycling.
From my experience though, 10/22's will eat everything marketed as 1070fps and they'll stay subsonic for you.
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I hunt a lot of ground squirrels. Super Sonic ammo in my hunting gun is very accurate out to around 60 yards. But at 75 yards it spreads like a shotgun pattern. So, from my gun it slows to subsonic between 60 and 75 yards. AS long as I keep those shots under 60 yards, I get to take advantage of the higher velocity, and the extra damage it does to a ground squirrel.
But in target sports where you may have targets over that 60-yard max. Sub sonic ammo does not have to pass from sonic to subsonic and that Sonic Boom [or in this case Sonic Crack]. That seems to be the point that the bullets become unstable.
From my gun Federal AM is strong enough to work a semi auto action and be sub sonic. Federal AM is advertised at 1200 FPS. If it works in your gun, it's cheap enough to practice with also. Test it at 50 and 100 yds. If you are accurate at 50, and then your group falls apart at 100, try another ammo.
At your first match you will hear a lot of talk about what ammo they use. Just remember, not every gun shoots every ammo the same. You will have to test yours in your gun. But if you see someone running a semi auto with a 16" barrel, trying that ammo might be a good place to start.
Good Luck and enjoy your first match. DR
- Thread Starter
- #17
Update!
So I decided to try some stuff last night, after looking everywhere for this box that I keep all my random bits and baubles, like swivel studs couldn't find it anywhere!. So I picked up one of those and got home and did some measuring and drilled myself a new stud.....wait LMAO
As my my mind became hungry my poor Howa 1500 started to look like a drumstick. I removed it's pic rail stud/ adapter , put those on and now my bipod will work...but I wasn't finished. Next, I went for the scope.
When all was said and done, my Ruger now has a 6-18x44 AO scope.
Gonna try to hit the range tomorrow and try it out.
What parallax do you set your scope for? If we're shooting between 25 and 200 yards should I just pick an in-between or set it for each round?
Thank you guys for all the advice.
So I decided to try some stuff last night, after looking everywhere for this box that I keep all my random bits and baubles, like swivel studs couldn't find it anywhere!. So I picked up one of those and got home and did some measuring and drilled myself a new stud.....wait LMAO
As my my mind became hungry my poor Howa 1500 started to look like a drumstick. I removed it's pic rail stud/ adapter , put those on and now my bipod will work...but I wasn't finished. Next, I went for the scope.
When all was said and done, my Ruger now has a 6-18x44 AO scope.
Gonna try to hit the range tomorrow and try it out.
What parallax do you set your scope for? If we're shooting between 25 and 200 yards should I just pick an in-between or set it for each round?
Thank you guys for all the advice.
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You are going to want to adjust parallax for each round/distance. You can always use some very small pieces of painters tape or some other easily removable marker to indicate your various positions needed for quick reference.
If you are going to be using your elevation dial to make adjustments, make sure you validate your drops/adjustments for known distances such as 50/75/100/125/150/175/200. Or do as Reno suggested and calibrate your ammo/gun to the app and then true up to real world results at say 50/100/150.
If you are going to be using your elevation dial to make adjustments, make sure you validate your drops/adjustments for known distances such as 50/75/100/125/150/175/200. Or do as Reno suggested and calibrate your ammo/gun to the app and then true up to real world results at say 50/100/150.
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- #19
Changing my elevation for each shot is not something I've ever done. Always have done holdover.
I would like to try doing that but probably not going to try it out on Sunday. Stick with what I know and learn more before next time.
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Does your scope have mil dots? They can be used to hold over, but you will need to test what dot is right for each distance. I could do this with enough time. but under the clock I would have trouble counting dots to see that I'm right for each shot. By changing the elevation, I can do it just once before each stage.
Your Parallax setting will be almost like a focus ring. You will have to refocus for each distance.
If you record these setting on a dope card, pretty soon you will have most distances recorded. Then you can just dial your drop and distance before you step up to the line. It will be one less thing to remember on the line.
Eventually you will hit a stage that has you alternating between far and near targets. On those stages you will have to decide on hold over or change settings for each shot. I will sometimes set for the longer distance and hold under for the shorter distance.
This is a game where the winners are the ones that control the details. Good Luck DR
Your Parallax setting will be almost like a focus ring. You will have to refocus for each distance.
If you record these setting on a dope card, pretty soon you will have most distances recorded. Then you can just dial your drop and distance before you step up to the line. It will be one less thing to remember on the line.
Eventually you will hit a stage that has you alternating between far and near targets. On those stages you will have to decide on hold over or change settings for each shot. I will sometimes set for the longer distance and hold under for the shorter distance.
This is a game where the winners are the ones that control the details. Good Luck DR
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