Nickel brass

[awshoot]

I use this method when sorting mixed brass of the same diameter .380/9mm and .38/.357:
...

My edits are done for today, darn it -- I have blocks that I've made specifically for my different cartridges and the brass doesn't fall all the way down in the tray as in the video example. Once the tray is full it's very easy to tell which is which because the 9s and .357s are taller. Then I just pick out the one or the other (whichever is fewer) and toss those in a tub. The rest in the tray go into a different tub.

 

[HighlandLofts]

I load a lot of 38spl & 357 mag.
I bought hundred & hundreds of used cases. Many were nickel plated. I load a hundred at a time and have two hundred 38s and two hundred 357s that are up to about a dozen loads. I am getting case mouth splits from what I think is caused from flaring and crimping.
My nickel cases are almost brass color now. I haven't noticed that much more failure in the nickel cases over the brass cases.
When I get case failures I toss them in the recycle bucket and grab new cases and start them on their life cycle.

 

[Snip]

I have some 308 nickel plated brass. I'm really not a fan. It's hard to resize, hard to deprime. Just kinda junk all together.

 

[Crazyeye24]

Not a fan of nickel plated brass...have had too many split cases after 1 or 2 loads.

 

[Phred]

I've had pretty good luck with nickel cases. However, all my nickel cases are for straight walled calibers. I'm on the third reload with some M1 Carbine nickel cases which are almost straight walled.

 

[crossbow5]

I've also had good luck with the nickel cases, especially with the 38 super and 357 mag. The nickel wears off after cleaning the cases several times. I have had a few case splits, but fairly rare occurrence.