Newbie trying to buy a scope

[ConcreteJungle]

I'm trying to expand my shooting capabilities and have finally decided to try scoped shooting as well.
Up to now, i've only used iron sights or a red dot on my rifles.

Been looking at some inexpensive scopes to get my feet wet. Don't want to spend a bunch of money on a scope and figure out that long range shooting is not for me. It's going to be going on one of my semi-auto rifles that are chambered in .223/300aac/308win
The longest range I'd probably shoot is about 250yds.

Looked at the Nikon Buckmaster (3-9x40) since Cabela's has it on clearance for $100.
The other one I looked at was the Cabela's Alpha Series (3-12x40). On clearance also for $60.
$100 won't hurt the wallet if i decide long range isn't for me.

Any thoughts?


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[edslhead]

The Nikon's are good scopes. I have 2 and both have been great. If you don't mind spending a little more you can get a Leupold from this guy. I ordered one and had no problems. Great scope too.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Leupold-VX-...304?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5418c97350

 

[soberups]

If you can find a way to pony up an extra $100 or so you can get into a Leupold that will last you for a lifetime and that you wont have any trouble re-selling if you decide you don't need it. Leupolds have a lifetime warranty and are made here in Oregon. The cheaper scopes are made in China and in a few years you will regret buying one.

 

[ConcreteJungle]

thanks for the input.
I stopped by cabelas yesterday and looked at the Nikon, the Luepold and the Cabela's branded one. I'm going with the Nikon mainly because of cost.

 

[jbett98]

Are you going to mount it yourself, or have the counter guy install it?

 

[ConcreteJungle]

Are you going to mount it yourself, or have the counter guy install it?

Going to install it myself. it's going on a semi-auto rifle with a weaver rail so installation should be straight forward, adjustments and fine tuning it might be a long drawn out process. Been doing a lot of reading on the topic and even found some videos that seem pretty detailed.

 

[Darkker]

Here is some rambling, honest info for you.
First thing, let's be honest with ourselves; you NEVER get what you don't pay for.
That Leupold/Vortex/etc forever warranty?? They agent giving it to you for free, you pay for a certain number of calculated replacements up front when you buy it. Not saying that's bad, I flew the Leupy flag a long time, just remember reality.
Next is your desire to go longer distance. 250 is nothing for those cartridges, but in case you get ambitious you need to think about adjustment range of the scope. Those all stink if you really want to stretch.
Focal plane. I didn't look at your links, but they are second focal plane. IF you want a reticle (cross hairs) with some form of markings (mill, moa hashes) I think SFP scopes are foolish. They adjustment of the turrets, and the corresponding reticle will only match at full magnification.

Either scope should be fine for general filling around/ hunting. If you want a long range scope; I vote Primary Arms.
I bought a 4-14x mil/m FFP from them for $239. Honestly it is FAR better glass than the SWFA 5-15HD. And the reason I left Leupold.
Cheers

 

[mjbskwim]

Going to install it myself. it's going on a semi-auto rifle with a weaver rail so installation should be straight forward, adjustments and fine tuning it might be a long drawn out process. Been doing a lot of reading on the topic and even found some videos that seem pretty detailed.

Once you get your scope somewhat adjusted by one of the many methods on you tube,start your final adjustments at 25 yards and don't waste ammo.25 yards is where your bullet crosses the scope first in it's trajectory.So with a 223/556 and the 308 (pretty close) you dial the scope in on the bullseye and should be close at 100 yards.Mostly concentrate on windage,then do the uppsy downsy at the range you wish to sight it at.
I tried to get my friend to do this and 2 boxes of shells later,he still didn't have it sighted in at 100 yards.
Start close and then you will hit the target
I will get close by taking the bolt out and sighting thru the barrel on something at 100 yards,then adjusting the crosshairs to that object.Since the scope rides on the upper it works well with the AR
One gunsmith told me he uses a small mirror to stick in the semiautos that you can't get the action out of.
Takessome time that way but I have made it work

 

[ConcreteJungle]

Once you get your scope somewhat adjusted by one of the many methods on you tube,start your final adjustments at 25 yards and don't waste ammo.25 yards is where your bullet crosses the scope first in it's trajectory.So with a 223/556 and the 308 (pretty close) you dial the scope in on the bullseye and should be close at 100 yards.Mostly concentrate on windage,then do the uppsy downsy at the range you wish to sight it at.
I tried to get my friend to do this and 2 boxes of shells later,he still didn't have it sighted in at 100 yards.
Start close and then you will hit the target
I will get close by taking the bolt out and sighting thru the barrel on something at 100 yards,then adjusting the crosshairs to that object.Since the scope rides on the upper it works well with the AR
One gunsmith told me he uses a small mirror to stick in the semiautos that you can't get the action out of.
Takessome time that way but I have made it work

I've always done my zero's at 25 yards using the same method...
I've normally been able to zero it in about 6-9 shots.

 

[jbett98]

After mounting/positioning the scope and lightly tightening the ring screws, try closing your eyes and bring the scope up to your shoulder and into a firing position. Wear a coat if you plan on cold weather hunting.
When you open your eyes, the scope should be perfectly clear and focused at the lowest setting, and you're not moving your head to search for that sweet spot.
All scopes have adjustable eyepieces to accommodate your vision, but sliding the scope front to back on the rings as you're setting it up just makes it easier to dial it in to your eyesight.

 

[mjbskwim]

I've always done my zero's at 25 yards using the same method...
I've normally been able to zero it in about 6-9 shots.
View attachment 248462

"IF" you have the proper shooting station,that holds your gun solid you can do it with one shot.
Doesn't work worth a damn with someone holding the gun,lol
After you shoot the first shot,with the gun held in place,you move the cross hairs to the POI and violla!!
Second shot should hit POA
I tried it with a friend with me holding it and he just had to push hard on the turrets to turn them.
OK that didn't work

 

[ConcreteJungle]

"IF" you have the proper shooting station,that holds your gun solid you can do it with one shot.
Doesn't work worth a damn with someone holding the gun,lol
After you shoot the first shot,with the gun held in place,you move the cross hairs to the POI and violla!!
Second shot should hit POA
I tried it with a friend with me holding it and he just had to push hard on the turrets to turn them.
OK that didn't work

Just watched a demo on this technique. Holy smokes, i've been wasting ammo all this time but then again i didn't have a way to hold the rifle down. thanks.

 

[Bookmark Man]

To me the absolute best value in low priced scopes is Tasco World Class. You get a 3-12X or 4-16X and get lots of field of view and a pretty good top end. In side by side comparisons I discovered they are almost as good as mid-priced scopes.

 

[ngzcaz]

Here is some rambling, honest info for you.
First thing, let's be honest with ourselves; you NEVER get what you don't pay for.
That Leupold/Vortex/etc forever warranty?? They agent giving it to you for free, you pay for a certain number of calculated replacements up front when you buy it. Not saying that's bad, I flew the Leupy flag a long time, just remember reality.
Next is your desire to go longer distance. 250 is nothing for those cartridges, but in case you get ambitious you need to think about adjustment range of the scope. Those all stink if you really want to stretch.
Focal plane. I didn't look at your links, but they are second focal plane. IF you want a reticle (cross hairs) with some form of markings (mill, moa hashes) I think SFP scopes are foolish. They adjustment of the turrets, and the corresponding reticle will only match at full magnification.

Either scope should be fine for general filling around/ hunting. If you want a long range scope; I vote Primary Arms.
I bought a 4-14x mil/m FFP from them for $239. Honestly it is FAR better glass than the SWFA 5-15HD. And the reason I left Leupold.
Cheers

Late to the party for sure but I have to say I agree for the most part about paying up front for almost any expensive optic. They may be worth more money but sometimes the little difference they have just doesn't justify the exorbitant price tag. I've mounted a ridiculously expensive Zeiss on my son's .270 that was over double the cost of the rifle. I've also mounted Prostaff on his other rifles. Maybe its my eyes but I don't much much, if any difference. I have a Tasco Varmint 2.5x10 and a Cabelas 4x12 on two of my rifles. I'm perfectly satisfied with them. On a hunt of a lifetime ? Buy good glass... but don't think you have to mortgage the house to do it..
I still have a perfectly serviceable Valor 3 to 9 scope that came with my 760 Game Master complete with Weaver mounts, complete price $ 105 for everything back in the 60's. The scope never fogged, came loose or gave me any issue for many years and had nice thin crosshairs for accurate shot placement. Don't forget, the post said he's going from iron/red dot to a scope and nothing over 250 yards.
And its not impossible for him to not like scopes at all.. much nicer to find that out at a lower price point.