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I just got back from the range where I brought my S & W 686 plus, and used the range's magtech .38 special ammunition. It was a little frustrating because 2-3 rounds out of seven would not fire. the gun just clicked when it got to those non-firing bullets. is it the gun's fault or is it the ammunition? This was my first time firing this gun. I went through 50 rounds this way, having to pull-out and throw-away the ones that did not fire.
 
Sorry to hear about your issues. Had my 686 for almost 27 years and never had a problem with any kind of ammo. I am sure S&W will sort it out and you will love the gun.


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Agree - try different ammo, and if same problem, send back to S&W. They have good warranty service (or at least, that's been my experience).

I have a 686 and haven't had these kinds of problems with it.
 
thanks for the input. 4" barrel. I think I made a mistake buying it used.

Nothing wrong with a good used gun.

Were the primer strikes light on the rounds? If so, check the strain screw for the mainspring under the grips and be sure it is screwed in all the way tight. It will sometimes get loose or someone will loosen it to get the trigger pull lighter. I would have rotated the cylinder back onto the fired rounds that didn't go off and try firing on them again.
 
Check the strain screw for the mainspring under the grips and be sure it is screwed in all the way tight. It will sometimes get loose or someone will loosen it to get the trigger pull lighter

excellent advice ! the 686 is considered by some..me included..to be 'IT' where 'Smith revolvers are concerned.don't be in a hurry to sell it.
 
Good suggestion. I've had this happen with a mainspring strain screw on the loose side. Drop on a bit of blue loctite and tighten it down.

If tightening the main spring strain screw does not work, I will add my support for going to the S&W shop. Great service.
 
ack. I'm not sure about all that technical stuff, but thanks for your advice. No, it is an amazing shooting machine. I brought it back to the dealer today to send it to S & W for repairs. I want it to shoot reliably any type of .38 rounds like TOVO's or Sun195's experiences. I was lucky... I brought it in on the 30th day of a 30-day warranty policy, so I am expecting the best. I will let you know in a few weeks how it goes.
 
Nothing wrong with a good used gun.

Were the primer strikes light on the rounds? If so, check the strain screw for the mainspring under the grips and be sure it is screwed in all the way tight. It will sometimes get loose or someone will loosen it to get the trigger pull lighter. I would have rotated the cylinder back onto the fired rounds that didn't go off and try firing on them again.

This is good advice. I have decided to leave it to the experts.
 
What's the barrel length?

... try Federal 158gr semi wad cutter round nose.

Are semiwadcutters considered lead ammo? I am not so much concerned about barrel fouling, but my range doesn't allow "lead ammo." I would love to try some Buffalo Bore 158 in my Model 10, but I am not sure that's okay.
 
as stated above - it was most likely the loose screw - also could be a failed attempt at a home trigger job. I've never had any issues with my 686 running .357 or 38special. While I don't feel my 686 is an ideal daily carry gun, I would have to say its definitely my favorite handgun and a true pleasure to shoot. I hope yours comes back working correctly - it will serve you well for years to come.
 
Are semiwadcutters considered lead ammo? I am not so much concerned about barrel fouling, but my range doesn't allow "lead ammo." I would love to try some Buffalo Bore 158 in my Model 10, but I am not sure that's okay.

Buffalo Bore's 158gr is a copper jacketed bullet - if the range allows jacketed bullets they should be fine - however they also load a lead free 125gr. The 180gr are hard cast lead. The buffalo bore rounds are all near the top of the accepted pressure ranges but still within industry standards and are deemed safe in any gun in good working condition - they only say that they do not suggest shooting them in lightweight (scandium/titanium framed) guns as the light weight combined with the increased recoil from a hot load could lead to the other bullets in the cylinder "jumping crimp" which could lead to unsafe pressures.

I shot some 200 grain doubletap out of my .357 yesterday - more recoil than standard .357 but not uncomfortable to shoot.
 
Actually, dealing with the main spring is simple. You will want to take the grip off to clean the revolver and as soon as you do the mainspring and set screw are right there in front of you and pretty obvious as to function.
 
Yah could be the ammo! Or the mainspring is weak. Mainspring is $12.00 from gunsprings.com , and would save you the hassle of boxing and shipping, and waiting for your pistol to return.
 
ack. I'm not sure about all that technical stuff, but thanks for your advice. No, it is an amazing shooting machine. I brought it back to the dealer today to send it to S & W for repairs. I want it to shoot reliably any type of .38 rounds like TOVO's or Sun195's experiences. I was lucky... I brought it in on the 30th day of a 30-day warranty policy, so I am expecting the best. I will let you know in a few weeks how it goes.

It's super easy to tighten the tension screw on the grip frame.. you may have to remove the grip if it covers the screw
 
ack. I'm not sure about all that technical stuff, but thanks for your advice. No, it is an amazing shooting machine. I brought it back to the dealer today to send it to S & W for repairs. I want it to shoot reliably any type of .38 rounds like TOVO's or Sun195's experiences. I was lucky... I brought it in on the 30th day of a 30-day warranty policy, so I am expecting the best. I will let you know in a few weeks how it goes.

Depending on when your Smith was made, (after1991 I am thinking) your gun may have S&W's lifetime warranty.
Best,
Gary
 

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