Newbie AR-15 building question...

[uberguy]

Yeah, I'll probably never shoot another Spikes because some web dudes are fixated on phake phallic symbols. /not

 

[gryghin]

All of my AR builds have been with PSA lowers. When my kids turned 18, I taught them how to build their own lower. So, a few pistol builds, >6 rifle builds with no issues. All but one of our uppers are PSA complete uppers.

If you decide to build your upper, you'll need to make sure to check the head space. Either buy the gauges or bring it to a gunsmith to get checked. That's why I buy complete uppers from PSA, they do a function check before selling.
https://palmettostatearmory.com/

If you're looking at different barrel length, Classic Firearms has a good article that explains it. AR-15 Barrel Lengths Explained

Here's a good video that explains barrel material.

Good luck, welcome to the forum.

 

[ron]

I just put together a 16 " upper with this Stoner barrel. Mid length gas system, medium contour, fluted SS Barrel for $140 from Midway.
I like Magpul K2 grip and M-Lok handguards. Yankee Hill Machine, flip up rear sight, gas block flip up sight and flash hider. Shoots great
with the cheap Stoner barrel.

AR-STONER Barrel AR-15 223 Remington (Wylde) Medium Contour 1 8 Twist

This AR-STONER™ AR-15 223 Remington (Wylde) Barrel is perfect for competition where accuracy and reliability are imperative to a successful match....

www.midwayusa.com

 

[2thdrglock]

Building ARs is pretty easy. No particular need to get the same brand upper/lower. That's the beauty of mil-spec - it all fits together, leaving you with other attributes for the purchase decision, vs. locking into one brand.

Spikes Tactical is good, for lowers around $100 +/- Aero is fine too. (Spikes in stock below)

AR15 Lower Receivers | AR Lowers Online

The AR15 lower receivers are the most essential part of your custom AR build. Browse our selection of AR lowers and get your next build started off right.

www.cheaperthandirt.com

Suggest something like the XTS .223/5.56 1/2"x28 Forward Sounding Muzzle Device - 3.25" ($25)
that projects the sound forward, especially helpful in a home defense / close quarters situation.

You might want to consider buying a completed upper, it's less tricky to put the lower together as a newbe than an upper from parts. Here's one from Davidson Defense, 16" mid-length, MLOK.

Davidson Defense "Peridot" AR-15 Upper Receiver 16" .223 Wylde 4150 CMV 1-8T Barrel 13" M-Lok Handguard ($190 Unassembled + $20 assembled); comes with a decent muzzle device.

Welcome to Davidson Defense INC. -

The 223 Wylde barrel shoots .223/5.56 with arguably greater accuracy than military std. When buying an AR upper, you purchase the BCG (Bolt Control Group) and Charging Handle separately.

The ALG ACT trigger mentioned above is an excellent choice, in stock at Brownells.com

The parts I mentioned are all in stock available for ordering.

That Davidson Defense complete upper makes a lot of sense. I just give up the sexy Aero Atlas R-one hand guard (that BTW costs as much as the complete upper!).

 

[Member 5605]

Hello All,
I am new to guns in general although I am 58 yrs old. We have a few pistols purchased within the last year or so (3 Glocks, 1 Walther, 1 Sig), have done our basic training and have put several hundred rounds through our small collection. Of course I recently got the bug for the AR style pistols and rifles and ended up recently purchasing a complete AR pistol in 10mm for my first one. Can't speak to it yet, it hasn't even been shipped. So I started thinking about building my own (actually just putting together with parts) an AR-15 chambered in 5.56. Started searching around last night and have come to the conclusion that right now this is an impossible endeavor...There are no parts available. Is this just a temporary thing, or is it common to have almost all the parts out of stock and you just have to sign up on waiting lists? Again, I am a total newb and just trying to educate myself of what to expect. Thanks!

Just remember we will ruin you on this forum. You'll end up broke, happy and wondering when the next ride is.

 

[2thdrglock]

Just remember we will ruin you on this forum. You'll end up broke, happy and wondering when the next ride is.

I think I'm figuring this out. After you run out of your own money, you continue to build rifles vicariously using other people's money. Have I got that right? I'm on my way...ugh.

 

[PiratePast40]

With LaRue triggers still dirt cheap, no reason not to put one in any build where you want to add higher quality for a low price. With shipping, they're $87!

 

[4x401]

If you're not looking at the Palmetto State Armory website, you're spending too much money....

The cold hammer forged FN barrels they use in some of their kits are second to none...built 30+ over the last few years. Not a one disappointed me. BUT
STAY AWAY FROM THEIR STAINLESS STEEL BARRELS!

 

[2thdrglock]

OK, well after watching videos, shopping for parts, and going back and forth on what to do, I did this:

1. Kinda pussed-out and went with some other's recommendations and ordered a complete barreled upper assembly from PSA. I did this because I couldn't find the combo of stuff I wanted (16", mid-length gas, 223 wylde quality barrel, normal looking M-LOK handguard), for under my $600 upper budget. Also it saves me from doing something wrong and having it go bang in my face instead of down-range. Anyway, I got this one:

https://palmettostatearmory.com/psa...pper-with-nickel-boron-bcg-ch-5165449606.html

At the point that I finally ordered it, I should have waited for a response from PSA on my questions about if the barrel was HPT and MPI inspected, but figured like other uppers that I waited on, it would be gone within a matter of hours. So I may have gotten a crap barrel, but for my skill and competence level, it will probably be fine.
2. Lower build is based on an Aero M4E1 receiver, I got from David @ HighLine, with Magpul MOE SL furniture and Aero M4E1 lower parts kit. I splurged a little on the trigger and got a JMT Saber single stage drop-in 3.5 lb trigger.
I welcome comments and criticisms on my choices. Thanks to all for helping a newb enter the fray...
Steve.

 

[Tony617]

I ordered a fully assembled upper from PSA minus the BCG and CG about a year a half ago. It is FN chromed lined barrel but there was no thread locker compound on the Allen bolts. I took the hand guard off and loosened the bolts and put loctite on them.

 

[titsonritz]

OK, well after watching videos, shopping for parts, and going back and forth on what to do, I did this:

1. Kinda pussed-out and went with some other's recommendations and ordered a complete barreled upper assembly from PSA. I did this because I couldn't find the combo of stuff I wanted (16", mid-length gas, 223 wylde quality barrel, normal looking M-LOK handguard), for under my $600 upper budget. Also it saves me from doing something wrong and having it go bang in my face instead of down-range. Anyway, I got this one:

https://palmettostatearmory.com/psa...pper-with-nickel-boron-bcg-ch-5165449606.html

At the point that I finally ordered it, I should have waited for a response from PSA on my questions about if the barrel was HPT and MPI inspected, but figured like other uppers that I waited on, it would be gone within a matter of hours. So I may have gotten a crap barrel, but for my skill and competence level, it will probably be fine.
2. Lower build is based on an Aero M4E1 receiver, I got from David @ HighLine, with Magpul MOE SL furniture and Aero M4E1 lower parts kit. I splurged a little on the trigger and got a JMT Saber single stage drop-in 3.5 lb trigger.
I welcome comments and criticisms on my choices. Thanks to all for helping a newb enter the fray...
Steve.

I would have skipped the nickle boron BCG and gone with standard phosphate but at least it is C158 steel so as long as it is done right you should be fine. I've never been a fan of cassette style triggers as they can be more difficult to remove if they get wedged up with foreign object such as a blown primer or torn case rim, but they can be a benefit if the lower trigger/hammer pin holes are slightly out of spec. I can guarantee the barrel is not HPT and MPI inspected or they would be bragging about it and charging accordingly. I would do like @Tony617 and address the gas block issue. The correct path would be to remove the handguard, muzzle device and gas block, then dimple the barrel and red loctite it. Blue loctite the handguard. If you puss out on removing the gas block at least loctite it. I would fire it first to confirm good operation but not so much that the BCG push the LPGB off the gas port. Make sure one screw is good and tight, then remove the other and red loctite it into place. After done and setup do the other one.

 

[arakboss]

I would have skipped the nickle boron BCG and gone with standard phosphate but at least it is C158 steel so as long as it is none right you should be fine. I've never been a fan of cassette style triggers as they can be more difficult to remove if they get wedged up with foreign object such as a blown primer or torn case rim, but they can be a benefit if the lower trimmer/hammer pin holes is slightly out of spec. I can guarantee the barrel is not HPT and MPI inspected or they would be bagging about it and charging accordingly. I would do like @Tony617 and address the gas block issue. The correct path would be to remove the handguard, muzzle device and gas block, then dimple the barrel and red loctite it. Blue loctite the handguard. If you puss out on removing the gas block at least loctite it. I would fire it first to confirm good operation but not so much that the BCG push the LPGB off the gas port. Make sure one screw is good and tight, then remove the other and red loctite it into place. After done and setup do the other one.

Why doesn't anybody stake the gas block screws? It works for the gas key, I don't see any reason it wouldn't work for the gas block.

 

[Jcon268]

Sons of Liberty Gun Works has some excellent hardware for the money and you can also grab one of their triggers for about $67

 

[2thdrglock]

I would have skipped the nickle boron BCG and gone with standard phosphate but at least it is C158 steel so as long as it is none right you should be fine. I've never been a fan of cassette style triggers as they can be more difficult to remove if they get wedged up with foreign object such as a blown primer or torn case rim, but they can be a benefit if the lower trimmer/hammer pin holes is slightly out of spec. I can guarantee the barrel is not HPT and MPI inspected or they would be bagging about it and charging accordingly. I would do like @Tony617 and address the gas block issue. The correct path would be to remove the handguard, muzzle device and gas block, then dimple the barrel and red loctite it. Blue loctite the handguard. If you puss out on removing the gas block at least loctite it. I would fire it first to confirm good operation but not so much that the BCG push the LPGB off the gas port. Make sure one screw is good and tight, then remove the other and red loctite it into place. After done and setup do the other one.

Yeah, I didn't know if the NiBo finish on the BCG was actually an upgrade over the phosphate...good to know it's not.
I'm following you except for the part about firing first before disassembly to check function not so much the BCG, but the LPGB. Don't understand LPGB? Also if I'm following, to dimple the barrel, I'm assuming I can do that with a small round burr in a dremel or a small drill bit/drill, and then the set screws will go into the dimples to prevent movement and rotation? Probably need to youtube that.

 

[titsonritz]

Why doesn't anybody stake the gas block screws? It works for the gas key, I don't see any reason it wouldn't work for the gas block.

I can think of a few reasons:
1. It would require quit a bit of material to be displaced to create an effective staking.
2. Gas blocks can be re-used, if they are being staked it will decrease it's life span. Carrier keys typical are not re-used after stalking them, RE end plate can be re-used but require they are torqued to a different location from the original stakes.
3. Staking without dimpling the barrel would do little good.

 

[Tony617]

Why doesn't anybody stake the gas block screws? It works for the gas key, I don't see any reason it wouldn't work for the gas block.

When I bought the fully assembled uppers from Troy Industries the the gas block bolt were dimpled as well. I put the Magpul AFG on my AR so it M-LOK nicked the gas block a bit. Does not affect the ability to fire my AR.

 

[2thdrglock]

Sons of Liberty Gun Works has some excellent hardware for the money and you can also grab one of their triggers for about $67

Thanks for the link. While I was doing my shopping I found it very difficult to find medium grade or better barrels (HP, MPI tested) in the length I wanted (16"), in the caliber I wanted (223 wylde, or second choice 5.56), with mid-length gas journal. Seems Sons of Liberty is the same, hardly any 16" barrels if any. I guess I just picked the wrong time to do this?

 

[titsonritz]

Yeah, I didn't know if the NiBo finish on the BCG was actually an upgrade over the phosphate...good to know it's not.
I'm following you except for the part about firing first before disassembly to check function not so much the BCG, but the LPGB. Don't understand LPGB? Also if I'm following, to dimple the barrel, I'm assuming It can do that with a small round burr in a dremel or a small drill bit/drill, and then the set screws will go into the dimples to prevent movement and rotation? Probably need to youtube that.

The problem with NiB is if not done perfectly the finish can flake off, gumming up the work. It can also create hydrogen embrittlement causing the bolt face lugs to shear more easily under stress.

LPGB = Low Profile Gas Block. The reason for test firing is to make sure the gas block is aligned and located properly and not cause short-stroking. The reason to not fire a bunch is the BCG slightly strikes the gas tube, which in turn can push a LPGB that is not properly secured off the gas port.

The correct way to dimple the barrel is use a dimpling jig to ensure proper alignment. Here is an example (there are others) .750 Dimpling Jig and a video on the subject put out by SOLGW.

 

[2thdrglock]

Thanks for the explanations. I did know that acronym, I just had a brain fart...
Also, I have an Aero BCG coming from David @ HighLine, so I may just swap it out...

 

[CLee0507]

I put the Magpul AFG on my AR so it M-LOK it the gas block a bit. Does not affect the ability to fire my AR.

Are you saying the M-LOK bolt touches your gas block? If so it can affect accuracy and should be ground down or moved.