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I just recently purchased a lee precision reloading kit. I am trying to gather supplies before I get started (without much luck) Anyhow, I was wondering if there is a good powder I can begin with for .40 SW and .357 sig just to have around to get me started? I was also wondering the same for .458 socom? I got a ton of reading to do but any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
 
Powder is in short supply right now. It's not like you'll have a whole bunch of choices.

Anyway.......
As for what particular powder will work?

Hint: Check your reloading manual and then see what's available on the shelf at the store. BTW....Power Pistol and Blue Dot seems to be popular (for both the 40S&W and the .357 Sig, based on the Hornady Manual 9th Edition).

Aloha, Mark

PS....Hornady has a new reloading manual out....11th Edition.
 
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Powder is in short supply right now. It's not like you'll have a whole bunch of choices.

Anyway.......
As for what particular powder will work?

Hint: Check your reloading manual and then see what's available on the shelf at the store. BTW....Power Pistol and Blue Dot seems to be popular (for both the 40S&W and the .357 Sig, based on the Hornady Manual 9th Edition).

Aloha, Mark

PS....Hornady has a new reloading manual out....11th Edition.
 
Probably the worst time to get into reloading it seems but oh well. Thanks for narrowing it down a bit. Like you said slim pickings on just about everything. Really appreciate the feedback.
 
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I've used HS6, Unique and one other discontinued powder I can't remember. Typically, I just use Mark's method of loading with what's in the book and on the shelf
 
IMHO.....Unique is like a swiss army knife for pistol reloading. Plenty of different cartridges use it. But.....some complain that it's "dirty" and some complain that there are "better choices" for whatever reason(s).

Yeah.....it's not like you can please all of the people, all of the time.

Aloha, Mark
 
I've used HS6, Unique and one other discontinued powder I can't remember. Typically, I just use Mark's method of loading with what's in the book and on the shelf
I see, thank you for your input. This is kind of a separate subject but I see that in the sample loads they show in the books they have specific bullets/casings/primers listed. If you follow the data points but don't have the exact same bullet/primer/casing but use the same powder is that going to be a major issue? In other words, are these items interchangeable?
 
IMHO.....Unique is like a swiss army knife for pistol reloading. Plenty of different cartridges use it. But.....some complain that it's "dirty" and some complain that there are "better choices" for whatever reason(s).
Unique burns cleaner when loaded on the higher ends of its data for the cartridges it's being used in.

It probably has to do with case expansion. I find handgun loads with 5 grains or less to leave pretty black cases.

My 9-10 grain loads in .30-30 leave the cases nearly as clean as they went in.
 
I see, thank you for your input. This is kind of a separate subject but I see that in the sample loads they show in the books they have specific bullets/casings/primers listed. If you follow the data points but don't have the exact same bullet/primer/casing but use the same powder is that going to be a major issue? In other words, are these items interchangeable?
Kind of. I know when I load .357 magnum, I get more smoke if I don't use magnum primers. When I load 7mm rem mag, I get pressure signs on my Hornady brass before my federal, due to internal volume. For the most part, I can't tell a difference if I'm making middle of the road loads, so long as projectile style and weight are the same as in the manual, with the same powder charge.
 
YOU might not be able to find the exact brand combinations of components (to reload exactly, like in the book) so.....the general advice is to always.....
"Start low and work your way up."

BTW.....the bullets weights and type.....also plays a role.

BUT.....YOU should also examine your personal "risk tolerance" level. Before, deciding to move further down that rabbit hole of reloading.

Aloha, Mark

PS......switching brands.
Miscellaneous Questions 4 (frfrogspad.com)
 
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If you follow the data points but don't have the exact same bullet/primer/casing but use the same powder is that going to be a major issue? In other words, are these items interchangeable?
Not a major issue as long as you work your way up and watch for pressure signs along the way, the items are interchangeable but revolve around the powder. Keep in mind even if you had all exact components you don't have their chamber... there will always be a bit of heuristic guess work to developing a load. I'm also just learning for rifle loads, but the only way I was able to get started came down to buying primers and powder from private sellers here in the forum classifieds. Make a list of different powders you want in order of preference, and scour the web or classifieds daily until you find anything on the list and buy it all and figure out a load with what you end up with. My guess is its gonna take another year to catch up production, (barring any legislative or other panic events). I saw some powder on powdervalleyinc.com today but it sold out.
 
I just recently purchased a lee precision reloading kit. I am trying to gather supplies before I get started (without much luck) Anyhow, I was wondering if there is a good powder I can begin with for .40 SW and .357 sig just to have around to get me started? I was also wondering the same for .458 socom? I got a ton of reading to do but any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
Vihtavuori n 320 and n 340 are favorites for me in .40. They meter great and burn wonderfully. Hs6, universal, power pistol, be86...all work fine in the .40. All researchable in manuals.
 
Wow, thanks guys. I was sort of figuring that things more or less revolved around the powder. I apologize for asking these questions without having done a bit more due diligence. I just feel it's first hand advice and experience from loaders such as yourselves that is just as if not more valuable than book work.
 
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get any reloading manual, not internet advice, and read the first few chapters of reloading basics. your eyes, fingers and guns will love you for it;).
The internet has a vast wealth of reloading knowledge including youtube videos, latest load data from manf, etc. Books are great but they don't answer every question and unless you continually buy the newest version and collect all the old versions, you won't have all info you can get on the internet. People often like to poo poo the internet but it is an invaluable resource imho.
 
The internet has a vast wealth of reloading knowledge including youtube videos, latest load data from manf, etc. Books are great but they don't answer every question and unless you continually buy the newest version and collect all the old versions, you won't have all info you can get on the internet. People often like to poo poo the internet but it is an invaluable resource imho.
respect your opinion and agree to some of your opinion.
imho, a "new" reloader should at least learn the basics of reloading from a reputable reloading manual. they are consistantly compatible. i have been reloading for over 50 years. nothing i have seen on youtube has happened to me.
 
Pistol calibers are a bit different from rifle. 357 sig has a shoulder so I would treat it as a rifle caliber with a shoulder. Personally, I would read a modern reloading book or two before looking at videos on the web. Two concerns:

1. Case overall length. Not so much with straight wall cartridges but having a COL too long and seating the bullet to meet overall length (OL) will create a pressure spike (throw off accuracy) due to seating the bullet deeper to compensate.

2. Set up the Lee scale in the kit correctly. When I originally set up mine, I had inserted the metal bar wrong as it was catching on something. I'd have to dig mine out to remember how it did hang up but it was off by 1.5 grains (pulled an old reload and weighed the powder.) A quick check would be to buy a simple jewelers scale to verify or use check weights. That is always a good idea anyways.
 
Pistol calibers are a bit different from rifle. 357 sig has a shoulder so I would treat it as a rifle caliber with a shoulder. Personally, I would read a modern reloading book or two before looking at videos on the web. Two concerns:

1. Case overall length. Not so much with straight wall cartridges but having a COL too long and seating the bullet to meet overall length (OL) will create a pressure spike (throw off accuracy) due to seating the bullet deeper to compensate.

2. Set up the Lee scale in the kit correctly. When I originally set up mine, I had inserted the metal bar wrong as it was catching on something. I'd have to dig mine out to remember how it did hang up but it was off by 1.5 grains (pulled an old reload and weighed the powder.) A quick check would be to buy a simple jewelers scale to verify or use check weights. That is always a good idea anyways.
Thank you for the tip. I will indeed do so just to be on the safe side. Seems there's no shortage of things that could go wrong in this endeavor at least for a newbie like me anyway.
 
Thank you for the tip. I will indeed do so just to be on the safe side. Seems there's no shortage of things that could go wrong in this endeavor at least for a newbie like me anyway.
No shortage of things that can go wrong for a long-timer either. The minute we forget that is the brief second we suffer injury. It's somewhat risky by its very nature. Pay attention to details. They matter.
 

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