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I've had Tula 38spl stick in my cylinder from the wax on the case melting. I don't shoot steel cased ammo in my Ruger SP01 anymore for that reason. Works fine in the 50's CDS tho. Looks like you're shooting brass tho...

Edit: guess I should have read the update. I think a light oil with CLP or even MPro-7 would be fine. However too much gunk will definitely make things stick in your cylinder.
My stepdad and some of the old vets he was around would either soak lacquered steel case rounds in gasoline to get the lacquer off or make me clean them with a bit of 0000 steel wool and paint thinner. Otherwise that waxy lacquer is a pain.
 
Happened to me today on the third cylinder of rounds out of my new to me 1982 Python. Almost certainly due to old dried oil varnish, as this was present on the low visible section of the hammer. Gave it an oversized chamber brass brushing with ballistol and it's super shiny clean in them cylinders now. Just have to remember to remove the ballistol before I take her out again; fortunately ballistol is water soluble and a hot water rinse and brush pass will do it.
 
Late to the party but Glad you figured out the issue. I have a King Cobra that's got very tight chambers. Some of my reloaded ammo that drops into my Ruger's won't chamber in the Colt. The King Cobra also has a relatively short chamber as well. The cylinders are short too. These guns need good ammo loaded to proper lengths and even then some bullets will not chamber due to the ogive too far forward on the bullet.

The tight chambers are great for accuracy but not so great for cases dropping free. I run speed loaders and the Colt has to have the cases plucked out by hand....not an ideal situation for self defense. I picked up this Colt for a second ccw gun and while the first six rounds are great the slow reloads have made me not carry it. I have given it to my wife to shoot and she really likes it.
 
LOL. Coming up on an IA inspection for the SGs in the arsenal, I was asked to ensure that they were clean. Well....using one of those Hoppe #9 cleaning kits I got to work and finished up the task with the included oil.

Yeah.......by the time the inspection rolled around the oil had congealed and the firing pins were stuck.

Learned my lesson. From then on only CLP was used.

For me personally......
Nowadays it's axle grease for the M1 and M1a where the grease is needed and some 0W-20 syn motor oil where oil is needed. Or CLP if available. Mind you that, it's a very light coat of oil being used here (almost like using dry rag/patch) to keep rust from forming on the exterior surface. Parts that move get a little more love.

Aloha, Mark
 
Last Edited:
LOL. Coming up on an IA inspection for the SGs in the arsenal, I was asked to ensure that they were clean. Well....using one of those Hoppe #9 cleaning kits I got to work and finished up the task with the included oil.

Yeah.......by the time the inspection rolled around the oil had congealed and the firing pins were stuck.

Learned my lesson. From then on only CLP was used.

For me personally......
Nowadays it's axle grease for the M1 and M1a where the grease is needed and some 0W-20 syn motor oil where oil is needed. Or CLP if available. Mind you that, it's a very light coat of oil being used here (almost like using dry rag/patch).

Aloha, Mark
I only use the Hoppie #9 cleaner and oil on my one and only revolver. I have not noticed any congealing of the oil either. Not sure when I bought the old probably but is mostly like in the early 1990s.
 

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