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Okay guys maybe I pulled that trigger too fast.

Guys, 10mm and 40SW can use the same bullets and less powder.

Maybe marginal but the point stands - reload reload reload instead of paying
Yes and Yes, but ya ever hear of the 38 Special - .357 Mag interchange? :D

Very little in costs, similar results. The 44 Mag and Special is a good one too, just more money.

I've always had a revolver or two, both SA and DA. In the last couple of years my interests have turned back towards DA revolvers.
I had a Mod 69 4". Great L-Frame 44 Mag. Near Nasty with 44 Mag. Pure pussycat with 220 gr cast in 44 Special.
Picked it up because I thought it would be a neat replacement for a 686+ 4" I'd sold a few years before.
Still looking for a 686+. I think it's nearly the perfect "do it all" revolver.
In general, I think the S&Ws are a little more graceful than the Rugers, but a Ruger is as tough as nails and the best route to go if interested in a Singe Action.
 
I think revolvers more than most gun depends on your hand size. I have really big hands and many K frame and small revolvers feel from uncomfortable to downright unsafe in my grip- when the handle gets so small you it ends 3/4 of the way down your palm it is hard to aim well at all. That being said the GP100 I just got my wife loved so much she commandeered it from me. She has large hands for a woman- about the same glove size as the average man, and I liked it too. So it would get my vote as a gun that seems to fit most people.

If you have a range that rents guns it might be good to go check some out before buying.

Great now you had me looking and found this: https://ruger.com/products/superGP100/models.html. One more thing I can't afford but want.
 
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Looks like we're pretty late to this party, OP bought his sixgun in May, 2020. As a follow up, @Esam85 , how do you like it? Do you still shoot it? Ever shoot Steel Challenge, yet?

Having shot revolvers in competition, I would recommend for Speed Steel/ Steel Challenge, that one might prefer an eight-shooter, like a Ruger Super GP or the S&W 929, which are both available in .38/.357 and 9mm with moonclips. On the other hand, your skills will improve drastically, if you regularly use a sixgun at those matches; you can only miss once, or you have to do a reload on the clock. So you learn not to miss as much, and how to speed up your reloads. :p
 
You won't go wrong with the SW 686+ or 586 L-comp.

Ruger's GP 100 is another very solid choice.
586 comp L is one of my 11 favorite revolvers

Resized_20210203_110850_965.jpeg
 
Looks like we're pretty late to this party, OP bought his sixgun in May, 2020. As a follow up, @Esam85 , how do you like it? Do you still shoot it? Ever shoot Steel Challenge, yet?

Having shot revolvers in competition, I would recommend for Speed Steel/ Steel Challenge, that one might prefer an eight-shooter, like a Ruger Super GP or the S&W 929, which are both available in .38/.357 and 9mm with moonclips. On the other hand, your skills will improve drastically, if you regularly use a sixgun at those matches; you can only miss once, or you have to do a reload on the clock. So you learn not to miss as much, and how to speed up your reloads. :p

unfortunately covid has really put a damper on my shooting. That said I haven't had much time to really get to know the gun but the couple hundred rounds I have put in it has been problematic. I wish I knew more about revolvers but the main issue is while pulling the DA trigger pull it sticks frequently. It seems to be stemming from the cam that rotates the cylinder. If I oil it there it works for a box or so and then starts locking up. I haven't braved the inner workings of it yet to see what is going on.
 
Sounds like you need to get some snap caps and just action the revolver a whole bunch of times.
That'll wear it in and the problem will go away.
 
I think revolvers more than most gun depends on your hand size. I have really big hands and many K frame and small revolvers feel from uncomfortable to downright unsafe in my grip- when the handle gets so small you it ends 3/4 of the way down your palm it is hard to aim well at all.

The advantage revolvers have over semi-autos is that grip size isn't dictated by grip frame size. On most semi-autos the grip panels stay within the area defined by the grip frame. On a revolver - especially those with a "stub" type grip frame (Ruger D/A's, Dan Wesson's) the grip may totally encompass the grip frame giving you plenty of latitude to fit the gun to your hand by using different grips. Herrett's will make you a grip to fit your specific hand by submitting an outline of your hand to them (and yes, they are still in business). So revolvers are actually more flexible in accommodating different size hands on the same gun.

Adios,

Pizza Bob
 
I have never owned a revolver but feel That it is time to change that. I am thinking of going the .357 route and looking for some suggestions. Price point would be sub 2k.

Thanks
A friend was recently in the same boat.
He opted for a Smith 686 6"
Beautiful revolver.

The Ruger fans will yap about frame strength, blah, blah.
Ruger can't match the Smith for smoothness, trigger quality, looks and you can argue accuracy.
Ruger/Smith = Ford/Chevy at the end of the day.
 
I haven't braved the inner workings of it yet to see what is going on.

It may just be dirty in the wrong places. The cylinder can bind so badly it feels like there's a mechanical problem, when it's actually just gunked up. With the cylinder open, does it spin freely? If it does, then it probably is the real inner workings - smith time. :confused:

But if it doesn't spin freely it's a no brainer to remove it and clean is all so it does spin freely. This video shows how to remove and install it.

 
Lots of good advice here.

Mine would be to find a place with a few revolvers in stock, and just go hold/fondle them. Don't try to make it fit, find the one that fits you naturally.

38+P is pretty stout out of a little j frame. 357 is not fun, comfortable, nor practical for me to shoot out of basically a mouse gun.

Something to think about, lots of revolvers can shoot multiple types of ammunition. I recently got a 610 with a 3" barrel, 10MM with moon clips. BUT it also shoots 40. Think 44 special and 44 mag, or 38SP and 357 kind of difference. My 460's shoot 460, 45LC, 454 Casull.

I like revolvers. Still getting used to them, and I probably should train more.
 
Lots of good advice here.

Mine would be to find a place with a few revolvers in stock, and just go hold/fondle them. Don't try to make it fit, find the one that fits you naturally.

38+P is pretty stout out of a little j frame. 357 is not fun, comfortable, nor practical for me to shoot out of basically a mouse gun.

Something to think about, lots of revolvers can shoot multiple types of ammunition. I recently got a 610 with a 3" barrel, 10MM with moon clips. BUT it also shoots 40. Think 44 special and 44 mag, or 38SP and 357 kind of difference. My 460's shoot 460, 45LC, 454 Casull.

I like revolvers. Still getting used to them, and I probably should train more.
I Love Revolvers and have since childhood. Haven't seen much .357 for quite a while. Where is it all? I've been shooting 38 and its drying up. I sure don't want to dip into my stash for a little R and R.
 
I adore my 6 inch Ruger GP-100. I was told when I purchased it that there had been a trigger job by Velzey on it and it is absurdly wonderful. Somebody performed magic on that trigger. Probably the only handgun I can ring steel with iron sights at 100 yards. I recommend them. I own a few rugers in 357. The redhawk with it's 8 shot capacity is pretty cool too.
 
It may just be dirty in the wrong places. The cylinder can bind so badly it feels like there's a mechanical problem, when it's actually just gunked up. With the cylinder open, does it spin freely? If it does, then it probably is the real inner workings - smith time. :confused:

But if it doesn't spin freely it's a no brainer to remove it and clean is all so it does spin freely. This video shows how to remove and install it.

It spins freely it is definitely the cam from the inner workings that rotates the cylinder. It seems to be fine until I shoot a box of ammo and then it seizes up and I have to open the cylinder and oil the little cam. I'll take a picture tonight
 
If I drop oil there every few cylinders shot it runs ok but I definitely wouldn't depend on it for a duty or carry gun that's for sure
8DDDFD5B-8580-4DAD-BA03-F4E6D643E804.jpeg
 
Make sure the gun is unloaded. Not a gunsmith but it's the first thing that's always said! :cool:

That point is depressed when the cylinder is closed by a spring loaded pin in the middle of the cylinder; when it's depressed the trigger can be pulled, when it's not depressed the trigger can't be pulled. You can see this by - with the cylinder open - moving the cylinder release back and forth and pulling the trigger.

Is the spring loaded pin in the middle of the cylinder firm, meaning hard to push w/ your finger? If it's not I guess it could get stuck retracted into the cylinder, thereby making that point not depressed and locking the trigger. But I'm at a loss as to how oiling that point would free it up anything in the cylinder.
 

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