JavaScript is disabled
Our website requires JavaScript to function properly. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser settings before proceeding.
Here she be
C0B77A76-617A-4C2C-8C15-9B5F3E02933A.jpeg
 
There's 2 S&W 27's for sale in one gunshop I frequent, a 27-0 and a 27-2. Both appear in good condition and each is under $700.
Either would make an excellent range gun-

edited: this is why I should read to the very end of a thread before posting.....congrats on the purchase !
 
This is good advice. Save the rest of your money for ammo. If you find you really love shooting a revolver you can drop your coin on a Manurhin MR73 when you're ready.
Yes, I love shooting revolvers and ready to "drop some coin".:s0155: - Do you have a MR73 that you'd be willing to part with?
 
Last Edited:
Since you can buy a few nice revolvers for under $2000, and since I'm a bit north of you near Bellingham...

I'm going to be selling a very nice 1984 Ruger Security Six 357 6" barrel in blue. No box but very nice lightly-used condition. Need to take some pics of it and list it here. PM me if you're interested. Thanks!
 
Ruger makes a decent revolver,but I've never shot any Ruger that was as accurate as S&W.
There is a reason why after over 100 years S&W has stuck around.
S&W's always have better triggers too in both double action and single action.

First .357 mags I'd recommend to a new revolver shooter would be S&W Model 66(the old pre-lock model) or the 686 either will last most folks a lifetime.
The 66 is on the K frame and the 686 uses the larger L frame, I prefer the balance of the K frame. Either one can be carried easilly in the 4" or shorter models but all versions of the 686 will weigh more if that is a factor for you. Both models in 4" are very easy to control with full power .357 magnum loads.(at least to me but I started shooting .357 mag at 13 so take that with a grain of salt)
 
I have never owned a revolver but feel That it is time to change that. I am thinking of going the .357 route and looking for some suggestions. Price point would be sub 2k.

Thanks

Do you reload? It's way easier and cheaper to reload 10mm and 40sw than 357mag or 44mag/44 spl.

I really like my GP100 in 10mm with a 4" barrel. With a Simply Rugger holster on your hip, its a great street/woods carry and range/comp gun.
 
Do you reload? It's way easier and cheaper to reload 10mm and 40sw than 357mag or 44mag/44 spl.

I really like my GP100 in 10mm with a 4" barrel. With a Simply Rugger holster on your hip, its a great street/woods carry and range/comp gun.

Please show your math.:s0092:
 
I'm a S&W sort of guy. Yes, I used a K frame S&W while on duty for about half my career. The other half was with a semi-auto S&W. So, I'm biased.

K frame for the lighter weight.
L frame for more durability.
N frame if you just like "Bigger".....consider her as a BBW. And, there ain't nothing wrong with a BBW. Ohhhh Yeah!:s0123:

Aloha, Mark
 
Just curious, what was your semi-auto service weapon?
4006?

S & W 5906- Stainless Steel because Hawaii (Rrrrright, salt air corrosion problems).
S-W-3rd-Gen-008.jpg Only the hammer was flat (no spur) and the trigger guard didn't have that hook on the end. Sort of like:

Aloha, Mark
 
Last Edited:
Rugers have cast frames so some believe they have to be heavier to be as strong as a forged S&W. Ever hear of a S&W frame failing? That said, both have forged cylinders and the Ruger is about as beefy as they get. I maintain that while both are good for a lifetime or more of shooting, the Smiths are the thoroughbreds and the Rugers are the draft horses.
I own both but there is no Ruger that can compare to the smooth lockwork and action of a S&W. Since you may compete someday that should be a strong consideration. A S&W revolver with a little polishing of the action and a spring set is a formidable competitor at a steel match and a pure joy to shoot any other time.
 
Do you reload? It's way easier and cheaper to reload 10mm and 40sw than 357mag or 44mag/44 spl.

I really like my GP100 in 10mm with a 4" barrel. With a Simply Rugger holster on your hip, its a great street/woods carry and range/comp gun.

Yes, I am confused by your first statement as well. I reload both revolver and semi-auto, and I find the cannelured bullets and roll crimps on revolver rounds to be easier to do than the taper crimp on semi-auto rounds. Plus, C.O.A.L. is a bit more forgiving as well, because of revolver rounds headspacing off of the rim. Granted 9mm is a smaller case, so takes less powder, and the bullets are also lighter so take a bit less material, though I haven't noticed a big difference in bullet price. But I guess there is some savings on powder, but spread over the number of rounds a one pound container will fill, I'm sure it is a small fraction of a penny per round. Small.
 
Okay guys maybe I pulled that trigger too fast.

Guys, 10mm and 40SW can use the same bullets and less powder.

Maybe marginal but the point stands - reload reload reload instead of paying
 
I'm a S&W sort of guy. Yes, I used a K frame S&W while on duty for about half my career. The other half was with a semi-auto S&W. So, I'm biased.

K frame for the lighter weight.
L frame for more durability.
N frame if you just like "Bigger".....consider her as a BBW. And, there ain't nothing wrong with a BBW. Ohhhh Yeah!:s0123:

Aloha, Mark

I am right there with you brother except I started out carrying a 4" 686 for many years until the agency made everyone go to them new fangled magazine loaded critters. In our case it was Kimber TLE's.

It has been a few years since I hung up the duty belt and my two concealed carry handguns are a 686-2 snubbie or a 1911. So much easier to stay with what you know and have fired thousands and thousands of rounds through. I have not jumped on the 686 plus 7rd deal. Have at least a dozen 6rd Safariland speed loaders left over from the old days.

Even though I have been searching hard for a 625 mountain in 45 Colt for awhile.
 
Newer 686 or GP100, as several others have said. 686 may have a better action out of the box, and the Ruger is still likely the stronger of the two, but it would take you many thousands of dollars in ammo to wear either one out. .357/.38 is ubiquitous, relatively inexpensive to feed, (under normal times), and you can do a lot with them. Great for teaching someone to shoot on as well. .41's, .44's, and 45 revolvers are all fun too, and I have all of them, but I'd never be without a .357....or 10...
 
I have never owned a revolver but feel That it is time to change that. I am thinking of going the .357 route and looking for some suggestions. Price point would be sub 2k.

Thanks
I have seen some beautiful Colt Pythons lately for $2,00 to $2,700. The Python is perfection for a 357. There are 2 at a local pawn shop and I think one is a motorcycle Officers hand gun.
 
I have seen some beautiful Colt Pythons lately for $2,00 to $2,700. The Python is perfection for a 357. There are 2 at a local pawn shop and I think one is a motorcycle Officers hand gun.

I hear you. Bought two myself. But you have to watch those auctions. People seriously overpay instead of waiting for the deal (or at least a fair market price).
 
I steer clear from imports, for a lot of reasons I won't get into here, don't want to start a fight. Colts are great, just stupid expensive. S&W makes a damn fine revolver, but they too have been creeping up in price, especially recently. That leaves the robust guns of Bill Ruger, well built and durable, still a good value.
 

Upcoming Events

Tillamook Gun & Knife Show
Tillamook, OR
"The Original" Kalispell Gun Show
Kalispell, MT
Kids Firearm Safety 2 Class
Springfield, OR
Teen Rifle 1 Class
Springfield, OR

New Resource Reviews

New Classified Ads

Back Top