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Hey all. I did scour the list to see if some of my questions were already answered, and of course some are. But sometimes even the answers are more confusing than the questions. I hope ya'll will bear with me as i ask some things here.
1. Full length vs neck sizing (vs bump sizing) for bottleneck brass.
I've heard neck sizing (or bumping shoulder back about 2 thou) is most accurate and best for re-using in same firearm.
I've also heard that, counterintuitively, this will lower the life if brass vs proper use if full length resizing every time.
2. Pistol resizing.
I haven't seen differences for full length as compared to anything else - this makes sense, being that they're straight walled (usually). But i have heard about how some brands or types within a brand of reaizing dies "go down further" and that makes them better - and i've also heard opposite, that ones that don't go down as far are better.
3. New brass.
Heard that it's best to load standard or low pressure, fire form, then reload as appropriate, and to not treat the first firing as proper ammo until it's been fireformed first.
Also heard it's best to full length resize all new brass, and then treat it like good ammo, and just fire and reload as appropriate from there.
I mention this because i do a decent amount of benchrest and offhand "mini competition" with friends and family. It's just for fun, but still important to do the best i can. So i don't want to load and take out my new brass ammo expecting it to be as accurate - if it's really not going to be as accurate until first fire forming.
(And of course, after fire forming, see number 1 up there, and should i neck size, bump size, or full length resize...)
4. Reloading non brass cases, or non standard brass cases. LOTS of yes, no, maybe, don't ever, do sometimes, confusing and contradicting info out there. Consider this a free for all and just give opinions as you feel like.
5. Lots of back and forth about seat/crimp stations in Progressive presses vs separate seat and crimp stations - and the debate seems to differ depending on straight-walled or bottleneck brass.
My inclination, since i haven't been able to decide, is to get die sets that include seat/crimp, remove or back out the crimp portion of the die, then follow it with a Lee factory crimp die just to be covering all my bases, avoid over crimp, and maintain safety - and to open a station for a powder cop because as a new reloader i will be using a powder cop just to add to the safety factor.
Ok folks. I'm sure i had another 50 or so questions, but my brain is going daffy and i'll leave off for now and i'm sure more will come up. Thanks in advance for your great advice, and i hope some of this helps any other new reloaders, even if they're not as derpy as me.
-Mike
Oh- in case it matters, I am getting a Hornady Lock and Load AP progressive press. I already have tumbler and media for my lapidary hobby, along with scales, etc. Ooooh....running bullets through my faceting setup. Bet i could get some nifty looking projectiles that ruin all ballistic properties...hrmmm...art for art's sake?
1. Full length vs neck sizing (vs bump sizing) for bottleneck brass.
I've heard neck sizing (or bumping shoulder back about 2 thou) is most accurate and best for re-using in same firearm.
I've also heard that, counterintuitively, this will lower the life if brass vs proper use if full length resizing every time.
2. Pistol resizing.
I haven't seen differences for full length as compared to anything else - this makes sense, being that they're straight walled (usually). But i have heard about how some brands or types within a brand of reaizing dies "go down further" and that makes them better - and i've also heard opposite, that ones that don't go down as far are better.
3. New brass.
Heard that it's best to load standard or low pressure, fire form, then reload as appropriate, and to not treat the first firing as proper ammo until it's been fireformed first.
Also heard it's best to full length resize all new brass, and then treat it like good ammo, and just fire and reload as appropriate from there.
I mention this because i do a decent amount of benchrest and offhand "mini competition" with friends and family. It's just for fun, but still important to do the best i can. So i don't want to load and take out my new brass ammo expecting it to be as accurate - if it's really not going to be as accurate until first fire forming.
(And of course, after fire forming, see number 1 up there, and should i neck size, bump size, or full length resize...)
4. Reloading non brass cases, or non standard brass cases. LOTS of yes, no, maybe, don't ever, do sometimes, confusing and contradicting info out there. Consider this a free for all and just give opinions as you feel like.
5. Lots of back and forth about seat/crimp stations in Progressive presses vs separate seat and crimp stations - and the debate seems to differ depending on straight-walled or bottleneck brass.
My inclination, since i haven't been able to decide, is to get die sets that include seat/crimp, remove or back out the crimp portion of the die, then follow it with a Lee factory crimp die just to be covering all my bases, avoid over crimp, and maintain safety - and to open a station for a powder cop because as a new reloader i will be using a powder cop just to add to the safety factor.
Ok folks. I'm sure i had another 50 or so questions, but my brain is going daffy and i'll leave off for now and i'm sure more will come up. Thanks in advance for your great advice, and i hope some of this helps any other new reloaders, even if they're not as derpy as me.
-Mike
Oh- in case it matters, I am getting a Hornady Lock and Load AP progressive press. I already have tumbler and media for my lapidary hobby, along with scales, etc. Ooooh....running bullets through my faceting setup. Bet i could get some nifty looking projectiles that ruin all ballistic properties...hrmmm...art for art's sake?