New Reloader Stupid Questions

See red.

 

'Það eru engar heimskur spurningar, aðeins heimskur svör.'

Eddas.

(There are no stupid questions, only stupid answers.)

 

I think Reno did a pretty good job answering most of your queries. However I will weigh in on the full length vs neck sizing debate. For big game hunting applications I full length size period. I have played with neck sizing and just barely bumping shoulder back and in my opinion it did not do enough for accuracy to worry about for the distances I am willing to shoot a big game animal. Full length sizing will give you peace of mind that every cartridge will chamber. I believe full length sizing shortens case life vs neck sizing but again on my big game rifles I will not shoot them enough to worry about this issue. Now for higher volume paper punching or vermin thinning at longer distances with smaller calibers, absolutely try neck sizing or setting fl die to just barely bump shoulder back. Brass life should be extended and you can eek out extra precision. I still do debur flash hole on all rifle cartridges but it is only a one time proposition when the cases are new. Have fun!

 

I’ve loaded 9mm that I have shot through a S2K, not once did I think, “Are my dies sizing far enough.”

I’ve loaded tens of thousands of 9mm.

I’d say just about any die for 9mm is good to go.

Others may interject their die brand of choice.

 

Full length sizing properly will not shorten the life of brass, it will ensure your ammo always chambers properly, and it will be more consistent.

For bolt actions the shoulder should be set back about .002, for a semi auto .004 is good. You measure this with a comparator on the shoulder (Hornady makes a good one) you cant measure on the neck. If you only neck size you will have to full length or body size eventually anyway.

Oh, and if your neck tension is good you shouldn't need to crimp rifle rounds, even semi auto. Lever actions you do need to crimp.

 

'A blautur strákur flýgur hraðar á miðnætti.'

 

osprey made a lot of good points about F/L re-sizing for rifle (bottle necked) cartridges.

Then add.....when loading for a semi-auto rifle. Yup.....you'll probably want to F/L re-size. LOL, then the next question will probably be about, regular resize dies or small base dies?

IMHO, since you're just starting out........

If you have a reloading mentor......follow his/her lead.

If not.......you got a reloading manual? Right......some, have a step by step procedure to follow.

When you're ready to go......

Go ahead and reload some rounds. Try to make rounds that will be "close enough" to a factory round. All while keeping in mind, using data published in your manual and the warnings.....start low and work your way up. Watch for signs of overpressure. Don't worry too much about the tiny bit of accuracy (or theoretical accuracy) that you may or may not see at this point. FIRST, get some experience. Then, come back and we can talk again.

Aloha, Mark

 

I've been shooting my Swiss rifles since 1989, latterly, that is to say, for the last ten years or so, with PPU/Grafs brass (it's ALL made by PPU - Wolf as well]. The current wisdom is to FLS every case, and I've followed that, despite having both K31s [tight chamber] and a K11 [not so tight chamber]. With the usually maligned Lee dies. No crimp on 168 or 175gr bullets either. I've been getting around twelve reloads out of every case so far before spotting the eventual cracked neck - and I don't anneal the necks. My loads are not squeakpips, either, as near as possible duplicating GP11, thanks to the advice from Piérre and Latigo over the years.

Same deal with .308Win - twenty reloads so far with Lapua brass. Mind you, I have the same 100 cases I bought in 2002. I know each of them by name now...

 

Benchrest is not my game and there may be validity to your findings but don’t get caught up in the weeds with these issues. Buy a loading manual or two and thoroughly read the front section on how to reload. Buy a good single stage press and a set of fl sizing dies for the caliber you shoot the most and give it go. As your experience grows you can tackle some of these techniques and theories. More importantly for a beginner are things like starting with the low end of published data, paying close attention to detail to prevent things like double charges, do not make component substitutions from published data until you have more experience. A mentor can certainly shorten the learning curve but if you are a student of the process, the knowledge can be gained on your own. Again, don’t get too bogged down with everything you read. Start by learning the basic techniques and branch out as you see fit. Enjoy!

 

I just use Lee dies for 9mm, I use all kinds of range brass fired from who knows what, and have never had any issues.

 

I would say it does matter. In my opinion being relatively new to the hab..HOBBY myself, a single stage is the best way to learn. I guess unless your already a tool and die maker, mathematician, transmission mechanic, watch/clock repairman etc. There's "Feel" to a lot of the process that's not as apparent on a progressive setup. And, all the old timey custom ammo makers say you'll always need a single stage. I'll probably never have a progressive because I like the process of the slower pace of rolling my own with single stage.

 

Mike is right.

In 1978 I bought my RCBS Rockchucker.

It's still my go-to press for rifle. I prolly shoot around 80 - 100 rounds of all kinds of rifle stuff every month.

In 1980 I bought my Lee turret press for the relatively large amount of pistol stuff I was shooting. I also invested in their nifty squeezy hand primer putter-inner. I can now pop walnuts with the thumb and forefinger of either hand.

Now I only have one cartridge-firing handgun it's my go-to pistol press again.

With a process as important as putting together a small pipe-bomb that you set off either next to your face or in your quaking hands, the motto for any noob should be KISS.

 

I have both progressive (Dillon 550B) and single (RCBS Reloader Special) stage... I load all my pistol ammo on the progressive, and all my rifle ammo on the single stage. Since my .223 reloads are for bench rest, I don't worry about mass production for that caliber that would require a progressive.

 

Fixed it!

 

Hmmm.

Lots of questions there.

How many hours do you want to read a response?

Properly full length sized brass only bumps the shoulder .001-.002”, same neck tension as neck sized only but you get perfect feeding. I bump my shoulder back .005” instead of neck sizing. Rifle doesn’t know the difference but my bolt handle sure does.

This also varies depending on if you use a semi auto, pump or bolt rifle. Only a bolt should you attempt a neck size or shoulder bump.

 

I have been reloading since 1982 and I still like reading threads like this as I am still learning
I recommend one tool and that is a good kinetic bullet puller. Think of it as a eraser. I know of no one that doesn't make a mistake once in a while.
Read the manual get your tools and components and start reloading. You will be surprised how easy it is to get started. You will run into problems and you will find what works for you and what doesn't
It is a hobby treat it like one.

Just my two cents.

 

My first press was a partner press bu rcbs
I have since acquired better tools but I still use that press for priming brass cases. I think that little press would do most of my reloading if it was my only press. You dont need to have the best equipment to start.