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From, and more at:

Pre-Ruger Manufactured Rifles

We do not have the parts, equipment, or expertise required to service existing, pre-Ruger, Marlin firearms and we cannot honor any warranty offered by the Remington Outdoor Company. We hope you understand the constraints that limit our ability to service firearms made prior to our acquisition.

Bruce
 
....so the Remlins were that bad.
Some of them, yes.

Others were a "diamond in the rough" that work well when deburred, polished and re-fitted.

You never know what you're going to get with a Remlin.
Big R had them when the 336 was first introduced by Remington.
I went threw 3 of them that were not even unboxed yet, and chose the best one which still needed work.
The other two were unshootable brand new!
one had the barrel installed so the front sight was about 15 degrees canted.
The others ejector was broken at the spring and locked up the bolt mid stroke.
Yes, they were so bad, it's like Remington tried to make them a failure.
At least the metallurgy was still good.
 
Some of them, yes.
I looked at a Remlin once, and it was not too bad. Fairly decent actually and I might have bought it if it had been in .357 Mag and more of a 'standard' model as opposed to being adorned with gaudy, inletted gold washed animal cutouts & engraving and in .45 Colt.

Otherwise the fit and finish part was pretty good.
 
No, they bought a NAME and assets - and none of the liability issues.

Absolutely no reason or need for Ruger to take on Remington's prior problems. None whatsoever.

Product warranty is on the manufacturer who made the gun - and that was not Ruger.
It would depend upon the acquisition agreement.

From, and more at:

Pre-Ruger Manufactured Rifles

We do not have the parts, equipment, or expertise required to service existing, pre-Ruger, Marlin firearms and we cannot honor any warranty offered by the Remington Outdoor Company. We hope you understand the constraints that limit our ability to service firearms made prior to our acquisition.

Bruce
Which it looks like Ruger agreed not to accept liabilities.
 
I have a "JM" 444 that I bought new in the 70s. They had just switched from dovetailed front sights to screwed on sights. Holes were drilled too deep and dimpled the bore. Back it went. New barrel, N/C. But that was then...
 
IMHO, The screw was snapped off in the hole. The late Marlins I have worked on have used thread locker that REQUIRES heat to remove the screws that thread into the barrel and and magazine tube hanger.

From the looks of yours after snapping the screw the sight along with the screw head was epoxied in place.

No manufacture (or machinist) would expect a 1/32 " deep hole to be threaded, the screw hole on my Marlin is significantly deeper than 1/32"deep.

Lets think about it if the screw had a 1 in 32 inch thread (1:32 is a fine pitch) you would not have even one revolution of the screw to hold. IIRC the standard minimum is 3 revolutions for most applications.

now the remaining section of screw needs to be drilled for an easy out than the barrel needs to be heated enough to soften the thread locker to the point that the easy out can remove the remaining section of screw.

Caution, if you don't have the proper tools for the job it would be very easy to bugger the barrel.

After reading "Reno's" adventures disassembling his Marlin I went ahead and took mine apart using heat to loosen the thread locker.

So... Why did I take mine apart? Just to confirm my suspicions as to what caused Reno's problem and how to disassemble it with out damage.

Reno's thread
 
IMHO, The screw was snapped off in the hole. The late Marlins I have worked on have used thread locker that REQUIRES heat to remove the screws that thread into the barrel and and magazine tube hanger.

From the looks of yours after snapping the screw the sight along with the screw head was epoxied in place.

No manufacture (or machinist) would expect a 1/32 " deep hole to be threaded, the screw hole on my Marlin is significantly deeper than 1/32"deep.

Lets think about it if the screw had a 1 in 32 inch thread (1:32 is a fine pitch) you would not have even one revolution of the screw to hold. IIRC the standard minimum is 3 revolutions for most applications.

now the remaining section of screw needs to be drilled for an easy out than the barrel needs to be heated enough to soften the thread locker to the point that the easy out can remove the remaining section of screw.

Caution, if you don't have the proper tools for the job it would be very easy to bugger the barrel.

After reading "Reno's" adventures disassembling his Marlin I went ahead and took mine apart using heat to loosen the thread locker.

So... Why did I take mine apart? Just to confirm my suspicions as to what caused Reno's problem and how to disassemble it with out damage.

Reno's thread
Must have lucked out.
When detail stripping my Remlin, there was no locktite.
 

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