Sorry if this is a dumb question, can I just load them up without resizing? What is the right way? Does it even matter? This ? is for pistol and rifle new brass.
If you're asking that question it sounds like you haven't convinced yourself that they are to size which is reason enough to size them. If you're in a hurry (you shouldn't be reloading) but you could check using a case gauge or by dropping them in the chamber of your firearm. But I haven't been reloading long enough to trust that I'd be getting consistent neck/mouth tension so I would error on the side of caution. What's fresh in mind is that I just saw a recent post on another forum of a new reloader KB! his Beretta 92.
I figure its new so it should be within spec? I have reloaded 7.62x39 new brass w/o resizing or trimming without issues, but I just wanted to make sure if what I'm doing is right. But, its also not hard to resize so I'll just do that. Thanks to all
Case neck tension on the bullet is the question. Example: if the new case didn't grip the bullet tight enough and it was pushed back into the case during loading.....in a 9mm you could have an "extreme pressure excursion", and blow up your gun. Enough tension can be checked by loading one bullet w/o powder into a case using what ever steps you will do and push the bullet of the sample loaded round against the edge of your stable bench. Does the bullet move into the case? Push fairly HARD! No movement is acceptable, ANY movement is not. You are reducing the volume of the case and less volume means an increase in pressure. Easiest solution to all this: at least neck size all brass and use a case gauge. STILL, check your neck tension...ALWAYS!
I must be out of touch. I almost NEVER resize my new brass. The only thing I will do to factory new brass is to run an expander mandrel through the neck to make sure any deformation from handling is removed. AFTER I have fired my brass once I then size (FL or Neck, depending on use), trim, and neck turn if for super accurate loads. Pistol brass rarely needs anything at all unless you can see a deformed case mouth. Most powder station dies will expand and bell enough to remove all but the worst. The more you work the brass the harder and more brittle it will become. Why unnecessarily size it and harden it unless you like to anneal a lot? Just remember, factories don't size the new brass before they load it.
Everything said above is true, I resize everything that hasnt been through my gun. Then necks on rifle brass and F.L. everything else. I only have bolt action rifles. The one time I tried to cut a corner. I ended up having to pull 20 bullets . Not to mention the disruption in my day of shooting. The time I saved cuting a corner cost me more time than the proper procedure. Not to mention the cutting of corners in some areas can result in catastrophic Failure. Just my 2 cents worth, Good day all. Mica
I just run through the neck sizer to get the neck opened up to get things more consistent, but sometimes I don't. I check the whole lot and if it's mostly good, I don't. If there are many that need sized, I do the whole batch. It all depends on the brass I get... if I buy it in a bag like Winchester (like I usually do), the brass gets banged around and beat up quite a bit. When I buy a box of nice brass, there isn't nearly as much deformation on the case mouth because they aren't handled as rough (they're in a bag, in a box), and I just fix the few cases that have a little ding in the mouth. I don't think it's a big deal with way. The best brass is the once fired from my bolt gun anyway. It's only then that I really look to count my accuracy. Even then, I'm not off by much if any by not resizing the new brass.
For factory rifles I've never bothered to resize new brass unless the mouth is all dinged up. For custom chambers where I have to turn necks I run them over a mandrel to uniform inside diameter so the neck turning on the outside is even. All I ever use is Lapua and some Winchester brass; both usually arrives in pretty good shape. Never had any issues since new brass is factory sized to a spec smaller than factory chambers. I don't shoot for accuracy until I have at least one firing on the case. For pistols I don't size...just expand the mouths and load as normal. Never a problem with pistols brass done this way either and I only shoot semi-auto pistols.
Depends on what type of brass it is. Straight wall pistol? Bottleneck rifle? Pistol you could probably get away without resizing. Bottleneck rifle I would just resize without even trying without. I learned that lesson with my 458 SOCOM. Always resize new starline 458 SOCOM brass.
I love new brass! Full length size Tumble to remove lube debur inside/outside case mouth Square up primer pocket debur flashhole Load it up and go shooting Then... Set up to neck size Tumble if needed check case length and trim to uniform length Debur case mouths clean primer pocket Load again Happy I'm out shooting well prepped carefully loaded ammo It is a relaxing hobby..I treat the 1st round exactly the same as the last round...If I'm distracted or have crap on my mind I stop until I can focus on loading safe accurate ammo
