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checked fuses all are good the relays underhood appear fine near as i can tell the fuel pump keeps running when you turn the key on never stops making noise but seems to be pressurizing the rail. connections to ecu in pass. kick panel seemed fine no sign of problem there but could be internal to that. hoping the wife will be up when i get home tonight to help some
 
tank has fuel for sure, and im thinking not pump because i ran it when changing the fuel filter and it sprayed out fuel fine and seems to pressurize up to the fuel rail. i found some info online today indicating that the spark system pre distributor triggers spark and injector pulse as well possibly
 
Ok well let's start from the beginning.
We need to check
Fuel
Spark
Timeing

To check the timing belt/ chain turn the crank with a wrench to see if you have compression and hear the valves working. If it spins like a pin wheel we're in trouble. If it's all good move on.

Check to make sure the distributor is tight see if it loosened up and rotated or backed off. Might as well make sure the coil wire or equivalent is tight too.

If that is all good, take the plastic intake junk loose at the throttle body and poor aprox 1/4 cup of gas in there. Re assemble and crank the engine for a solid 30 seconds or so. If the engine sputers or starts and then dies we now know the problem is in fuel delivery. If not the problem is probably is the ignition. So check spark at the coil wire.(if there is one) or a plug wire If you have spark, fuel is good, and all the valves are working then is probably something really odd. Normally a bad sensor will kick the car into idiot mode and it will still run so I think your looking for something obvious. I mostly suspect the computer and the efi system. But could be a sheared distributor shaft or something freaky.
 
have you pulled the distributor cap and watched the rotor move while turning it over?

He mentioned that he put a new cap and rotor in it.

but, this is the first place I always start! I did all kinds of troubleshooting on a 22re... then it ended up that Schuck's gave me the wrong rotor, it was just tall enough that it was clipping the contacts on the bottom of the cap. ithe rotor eventually broke, and I was stuck at a stoplight :(
 
putting a cap and rotor on still doesnt mean his valve train is working.ie: broken timing chain or belt. if the rotor doesnt move in time with crank rotation you may have a problem
 
timing is fine near as i can tell and distro is spinning. checked a few things more and found the check light does not come on when putting the key in on position before starting which indicates the ecm is most likely bad because it is getting power due to the diag block having power. other option is ignitor being dead which would cause a no fuel/no spark issue like im having. anyone local ish west side of beaverton have a 89-95 v6 toyota anything with manual trans that wants to let me test the ecm on their vehical send me a pm...... thanks
 
fuse is good power to both sides no clutch work recently. and no spark or injector pulse its at the mechanic now he thought it would be semi easy but got stumped by it too. once have a solution will update.
 
appears to be fixed as of now. mechanic found a short out in the air meter that was causing the no fuel and no spark issues and caused the distributor to fail as well. wife is on the way to pick it up now. :D thanks for the feedback and help
 

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