Need help bending ak flat

[caden08]

So I decided to take on the project of building my own ak! Ordered my romy g parts kit a few days ago along with the compliance parts. I'm reply I'm really looking forword to this adventure! My next task at hand is finding someone who would be willing to help me bend my flat.

APB:
looking for someone who has the equipment and able to walk me threw bending my ak47 romy g flat. I will throw some cash your way, just tell me what it is worth to you. PM me if you are interested!

Thank you
Aaron

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[Trlsmn]

Buy a nodakspud receiver the quality is much better than any bent flat. This advice is from personal experience.

An NDS3 receiver will cost you $55 shipped, by the time you buy a flat and pay some scalper $40 to bend it you will have paid more for a lessor quality product.

nodakspud home page.htm

 

[caden08]

The idea is to keep it away from big brother when shtf. I have 1 with a nodak in it
but want 1 they don't know about

 

[KomradRazvan]

So then post your plans for it on a public forum? Ok....

Back to topic, i agree with what trlsmn said. NDS make the best bang-for-buck ak receivers.

 

[coctailer]

We need someone to host a flat bending party.
Then a build party.

 

[gearhead]

i had the same plan as caden, for the same reasons. i think its wise, and after all, learning a thing or 2 can't hurt.

 

[thirtycal]

So I decided to take on the project of building my own ak! Ordered my romy g parts kit a few days ago along with the compliance parts. I'm reply I'm really looking forword to this adventure! My next task at hand is finding someone who would be willing to help me bend my flat.

APB:
looking for someone who has the equipment and able to walk me threw bending my ak47 romy g flat. I will throw some cash your way, just tell me what it is worth to you. PM me if you are interested!

Thank you
Aaron

Ok quick sanity check here. Did you buy a $99 kit from Centerfire systems? If so, do you have a barrel?

 

[caden08]

No baught a complete kit matching Numers Romy "G" from a buddy. Didnt want to hassle with anything besides the receiver

 

[thirtycal]

The receiver is a big hassle.

Thirtycal

 

[caden08]

I actualy enjoy a good project and need something to last me about
a month befor I leave for the army. And no not a
fellon. Just enjoy the process of the build gives me something to do and look forword to finishing

 

[rdb241]

Well Caden I have all the tooling and then some to bend/build what you want. All my tooling is very good quality tooling from Curtis Sebring at AKbuilder.com. I have bent prolly a dozen flats for myself and friends. I have all the riveting tooling, drill jigs, shop press, spot welder, torch. I can even do a Duracoat paint job. If you have the time to drive up north, I can walk you through the entire gig. I just got my last Romy kit yesterday and have already fitted the trunions. This will be my last one for myself. I have built 4 already. The first thing you want to do is clean up your kit. Strip it all down. Press out the barrel pin and remove the barrel so you can punch out the rivets in the trunion. Drill the rivets out of the trigger guard. Punch out the rivets in the rear trunion. The barrel has to be removed anyway to install the trunion in the receiver. It honestly is not that hard to do.

 

[caden08]

Thanks for the info rb. I have hot everything cleaned up and ready to
go! Except... The front trunnion. Ground down all the rivets but I can't get that dang barrel pin out. Tried a vise and a punch without luck. Everything else is ready to go including all compliance parts in, cleaned up, drilled out and beautiful even cleaned off the wood and restored it back to it's natural color. Received my flat last night and rivets from akbuilder.com. From this point how long will it take to finishthe bend and re riviting? Once I get that barrel pin out I can drill the front trunion rivets and will only take 2 min.

 

[rdb241]

If it is a military kit then the barrel pin has been in there for a long time. It takes a few tons of force to get that intitial "POP" on the barrel pin. Once it pops then it is just a ton or so of force to get it all the way out. Some guys on here say you can pound it out with a 3lb sledge. In my opinion...not a good idea. When you pound on one end of the pin and it does not want to move, that end of the pin will swell. then you pretty much have to drill it out. If you have access to a shop press that would work much better. Once you get the barrel out the rivets can be popped through with a small punch and hammer. The long rivet can be a problem sometimes. It might have to be drilled out. Same with the 2 long rivets for the rear trunion. As far as how much time it would take...To heat treat the rails and bend the flat, heat treat the hammer pin holes and the trigger pin holes, spot weld the rails in takes about 45 min or so. To install the trunions, press the barrel in and then the barrel pin and assemble the rifle...it should take about 3 hours or so total for the entire build.

 

[caden08]

Yea it is an 1986 romy g kit. Is it possable for me to heat treat the flat before bending or would bending it after heat treating it weaken it's integrity? I heat treated the rails already to cut down on shop time. And I will be needing a shop press to get the barrel pin out. I bent a few bults in my vise trying to get that bugger out. Next question is can I duracoat or use a paint that is heat resistant while my barrel and reunions are in. I would hate to bend it rivet then wait a day or 2 for paint/duracoat to dry then go back to a shop to install stuff. I guess what I'm asking is what steps now can I take since I'm at somewhat of a stand stil untll I get the darn barrel pin out, can I do to keep working on it? Can I duracoat/paint the flat? Heat treat the flat?

 

[rdb241]

If you heat treat the hammer and trigger pin holes before you bend...it will make that area brittle and could crack around the holes. Did you aneal the rails yet? After you heat treat the rails, it is wise to aneal them next. What that is, reheating the rails but not to red hot temps. Get a coffee can and put the rails in. Then pour some brake fluid just enough to cover the rails. then with a drop or two of gas or rubbing alcihol or something that has a low flash point. Put a couple of drops on the surface of the brake fluid. Then lite the brake fluid and let it burn completely out. Then clean off the soot with a wire brush. When you aneal the rails they are still heatreated hard but now they are silghtly flexible and not so brittle. With the bolt carrier slamming back and forth...if they are brittle they might crack or chip. You really want to wait until the gun is together before you Duracoat. To try and paint individual pieces and them assemble the rifle without scratching or chipping the parts that you have painted. You pretty much are at a stand still until you get the barrel pin out and the barrel removed. Duracoat dries fairly fast. They say to wait about 24 hours before another color or coat. I waited about 30min. before i started to mask for the next color. You do have to make sure that the rifle is at least room temp or the peel and spray stickers will not stick. They don't want to stick to a cold surface.

 

[caden08]

Ok thank you for the info. Do I need to aneal the
receiver as well?

 

[rdb241]

No...the receiver is fine just heat treating the holes.

 

[caden08]

Excelent thank you again for your infomation!

 

[rdb241]

That's too bad............

 

[AMProducts]

Speaking of heat treating...

You need to know what kind of steel the part is made out of before you decided to heat treat. Low carbon steels cannot be heat treated, but they can be surface hardened by adding carbon to the solid solution.

As far as putting brake fluid and gasoline... that's more like case hardening, but you are probably not getting anywhere near the temperatures required to change the crystal matrix, and even if you are, they are not maintained long enough to really have any effect. A typical annealing run would take you up to nearly 2000F for several hours, followed by a long furnace cooling process.

Surface hardening of the steel can be achieved by heating the whole part up to approximately 1200-1800F (depends on alloy) and then quenching in oil. I have heard some people using a technique called a "superquench" which uses high temperatures, followed by a water bath full of surfactants to very quickly carry heat away.

Before you get carried away determine what the blank is made of, if it is made of 1018 mild steel forget heat treating. If it's made of A36 (a common structural steel it is treatable). Also, common grades of alloy steels are the 4000 series (4130 et al).

If you do decide to send this out for heat treating, you want hardening, followed by tempering. This will guarantee your reciever will be tough, and not just hard. I strongly recommend a shop for this, as doing it improperly can warp the part and ruin all the good work you just did.