Need Guidance on Oiling Parkerized 1911 Frame and Slide

[washagonian]

Okay, the 1911 neophyte is back.

Last October I picked up a low-end Citadel (by Armscor), 1911 Officers model in 9mm. This was my first 1911, even though I'd been shooting for four decades.

In February I got a lot of help from you guys in this forum about how to completely change out all of the frame and slide internals. The pistol didn't need anything done to it, but it was/is my 1911 learning platform and everything got replaced except for the barrel, trigger, hammer and grip safety.

NOW - I need guidance on working with the Parkerized finish.

The research I've done suggests that oiling a Parkerized finish is important. You don't just leave it untreated. Also, it seems that any type of oil will work - like Remington or Hoppes gun oil.

But I wanted to check in with you 1911 guys, and maybe you milsurp guys, to get some guidance on how to oil and care for the Parkerized finish.

Any feedback is appreciated because I am a Parkerized finish neophyte.

Thanks in advance.

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[K-22]

Okay, the 1911 neophyte is back.

Last October I picked up a low-end Citadel (by Armscor), 1911 Officers model in 9mm. This was my first 1911, even though I'd been shooting for four decades.

In February I got a lot of help from you guys in this forum about how to completely change out all of the frame and slide internals. The pistol didn't need anything done to it, but it was/is my 1911 learning platform and everything got replaced except for the barrel, trigger, hammer and grip safety.

NOW - I need guidance on working with the Parkerized finish.

The research I've done suggests that oiling a Parkerized finish is important. You don't just leave it untreated. Also, it seems that any type of oil will work - like Remington or Hoppes gun oil.

But I wanted to check in with you 1911 guys, and maybe you milsurp guys, to get some guidance on how to oil and care for the Parkerized finish.

Any feedback is appreciated because I am a Parkerized finish neophyte.

Thanks in advance.

Eezox is my first choice..
Best,
Gary

 

[GOG]

Motor oil or 3 in1, gun oil or most any decent oil will work. Over time it will change color as more oil is absorbed because it's a somewhat porous finish.

 

[Knute]

Okay, the 1911 neophyte is back.

Last October I picked up a low-end Citadel (by Armscor), 1911 Officers model in 9mm. This was my first 1911, even though I'd been shooting for four decades.

In February I got a lot of help from you guys in this forum about how to completely change out all of the frame and slide internals. The pistol didn't need anything done to it, but it was/is my 1911 learning platform and everything got replaced except for the barrel, trigger, hammer and grip safety.

NOW - I need guidance on working with the Parkerized finish.

The research I've done suggests that oiling a Parkerized finish is important. You don't just leave it untreated. Also, it seems that any type of oil will work - like Remington or Hoppes gun oil.

But I wanted to check in with you 1911 guys, and maybe you milsurp guys, to get some guidance on how to oil and care for the Parkerized finish.

Any feedback is appreciated because I am a Parkerized finish neophyte.

Thanks in advance.

I like to keep mine really soaked and use Ballistol...works like a charm

 

[Andy54Hawken]

CLP works really well for this.
Andy

 

[jbett98]

I used military grade axle grease for my freshly re parked Remington Rand right after Velzey took it out of the tank.
It soaked right in and it now is moisture repellent and looks good.

 

[washagonian]

I used military grade axle grease for my freshly re parked Remington Rand right after Velzey took it out of the tank.
It soaked right in and it now is moisture repellent and looks good.

I'd read elsewhere on the web that folks have used grease and motor oil and transmission oil. From what I understand, motor oil was the go-to in WWII for firearms because it was the lubrication most accessible to soldiers.

The last thing I would have expected when I started looking into this was that slathering a Parkerized frame/slide with motor oil was a viable option. Darned if you don't learn something new every day!

 

[Kruel J]

Honestly with that firearm why not cerakote it? No more greasy slide........

 

[OldTengu]

Honestly with that firearm why not cerakote it? No more greasy slide........

That's the great thing about these inexpensive 1911s, generally good quality and the low price allows for modifications like that while still staying below the price of a new Kimber or Colt, with the added bonus of an increase in overall quality.

 

[Sbarton]

For what it's worth, a couple years ago I started treating all my modern firearms with eezox, which is a rust preventive. Works on stainless, park, blue, or bare metal. It does have a dry finish, which is nice, but it doesn't lubricate.
As for lubricant, pick your goop. There's a bunch of options, I've used a number of them and they're all slippery. I've gravitated towards the less expensive options over the years because snake oil is just as slippery as motor oil!

 

[washagonian]

while still staying below the price of a new Kimber or Colt, with the added bonus of an increase in overall quality.

You're right on the money. A great platform to learn on. I'm not afraid to F-Up with this pistol while I'm working on it. I'd be less likely to mess around with a $800-$1000 or more 1911.

I've gravitated towards the less expensive options over the years because snake oil is just as slippery as motor oil!

That is soooooo true!

 

[Red98422]

I used rem oil on my rock island parked finish, works well I live on a boat out in the salt water and it kept the corrosion at bay

 

[Pops1911]

Hoppe's all the way

 

[washagonian]

Reporting In:

First, thanks everyone who posted to the thread. Really got me going in the right direction.

So, on Friday I simply coated the frame and slide of this Parkerized 1911 with Hoppes gun oil. It's what I typically use, and given that folks said just about any oil will do, I figured I'd use what I had. Let it sit overnight and wiped it dry on Saturday morning.

Let it sit all day Saturday, the gave it another coat of oil Saturday night and let it sit overnight. Wiped it off this morning (Sunday).

WHAT A DIFFERENCE in appearance. Really took this hoo-hum, hunk of metal and made it almost handsome.

It's getting a nice rich, dark color. It's not quite a patina, but way better than the flat matte gray of the untreated Parkerized finish.

I'll do that a couple of more days to get more oil to soak into the finish. Then I'll just give the frame and slide a light oil and wipe down every time I clean it after a range trip.

Once again I get a glimmer of understanding how 1911s can get people hooked.

Again, thanks everyone.

 

[No_Regerts]

I use a natural paint brush and use it to evenly coat the gun with oil. Great for keeping the finish free of dust, lint, and fingerprints.

 

[nammac]

If I feel the exterior needs oiling then it's CLP hands down.

having said that, I prefer silicone cloths for the final wipe down... Have never had an issue with finish preservation...