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Just thought to post some safety tips ... Feel free to add any. :D

How to check if your Muzzle loader is loaded.
1. Check for priming powder in the pan or a percussion cap on the tube ( nipple )
2. Slowly run the ram rod down the bore ... if you hear a "metallic" ring or if the ram rod goes down the bore to almost the end of the rod , then you have a unloaded gun.

If you have a failure to fire with your gun wait at least 30 seconds to see if you have a hang fire.

On guns with a set trigger , check the set screw from time to time , to see if it has loosened , this can cause a super light trigger pull.

If you have traveled with a loaded gun ... before shooting check to see if the load is still at the breech.
To do this run your ram rod down the bore and "tamp" down the load.

Scribe a line around your ram rod ( at the muzzle ) to show how far your ram rod extends out the bore , when the ram rod is against a full load.
This is a quick way to see if your rifle is loaded or if you "dry balled" ( loaded without powder )

Be sure to replace your powder horn plug and return your ram rod back under the gun , before shooting.

When loading , it is helpful to say to yourself : "Powder , Patch , Ball."
This is helpful when folks want to talk to you while you are shooting or loading.
It is easy to miss a step when distracted.

No smoking while shooting black powder.

Always put the cap back on the powder can ... And never shoot over a powder can.

If during hunting season you store your gun loaded , be sure to remove the cap or priming and mark your gun as loaded.
I like to use a red piece of cloth over the nipple , in the pan or run between the ramrod and barrel near the muzzle as a marker.

If the ground is treacherous while hunting , it is a good idea to unprime or decap your gun.

While hunting I like to use bear grease or deer tallow as a lube.
Crisco , T/C bore butter , bees wax , wonder lube all work as well.
Using spit as a patch lube , like I do , on the range when I am going to shoot right away is fine ... But when hunting , it can cause a rusty bore.

Only load and fire lead round balls or conical bullets out of your muzzle loader.
Forgot the "Hollywood" idea of loading rocks , chain , nails , tacks , ram rods etc ...
Your gun was not designed to fire such items ... damage to your gun or you may result.

Just a few here ... again feel free to add more and Happy Shooting!
Andy
 
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I like the Ram Rod bounce trick, I drop the rod down the bore and if it tinks and bounces, its empty. I too use the red flag to mark a charged BP firearm. Tip I use for clearing a no fire, wait several min to make sure it doesn't hang fire ( keeping muzzle facing down range) and spray WD-40 or other light oil through the flash hole and then let soak, this will also ease the removal of the projectile and protect the bore until you can get it properly swabbed and lubbed, Not always possible in the field, but better then water if you cant get the projectile out right then! Fore range sessions, I work left to right, powder furthest away from the fire arm, then patches ( if using ball) then projectile, and finally ignition if its any thing but a flint! this way I can 'See" where I am in the cycle, as well as remember where I am so I don't miss a step! For hunting, I keep my powder horn on my right side, and every thing else on my left, it makes it really easy to handle the firearm safely and it also puts the correct items in the correct hand during the loading process!
 
Just thought to post some safety tips ... Feel free to add any.

It's a good idea to keep a small, thin strap of oiled leather strapped to the trigger guard and sandwiched between the nipple and hammer when in storage - or when loading - this would prevent any airflow during loading which in a one in a million possibility of a powder ember still 'hot' causing a discharge.

Never place your palm on top of the ramrod during loading - see above.

This might sound funny but it is a good idea to blow into the muzzle (not with your mouth on the muzzle but sort of 'off sides' to it) after firing until the smoke exits the nipple - this is one way to moderately ensure no live powder granules are left in the barrel - this might not be accepted by ALL BP shooters as you are in fact placing the muzzle in the area of your face but if only done by the shooter immediately after the shot there should be no issues.

I discovered chicken tallow to be the BEST patch lube I have ever used - it is the slickest stuff on earth and kept powder fouling down more than anything I have ever used. 22 shots the other day out of my Renegade and every shot (after about the 3rd to get a bit of normal fouling built up) loaded essentially with the same effort.

Have a 'range' ram rod for loading while at the bench and save your nice hickory or cedar ram rod for hunting and you won't bring it home in three pieces like I did on Saturday - unless you have an 'unbreakable' poly or other artificial substance ram rod. A standadrd three piece aluminum shotgun cleaning rod makes a great bench ramrod with the accessory blunt end screwed into the end.
 
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If using a caplock regularly check the nipple and replace as required to ensure consistent ignition and to prevent excessive blow back. My original 1861 Springfield (manufactured in 1862) was a self cocker until I replaced the original nipple.

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