Mounting Scopes @#$%^&*(

[DivCurlGrad72]

This guy's method seems like the simplest to me. Only tool you need is a piece of metal with two parallel edges. Starts at 8:00 mark.

 

[edzz]

They always come out straight for me, maybe my welder is just better than others.........I just have a slight problem with them fogging up a little when it's raining, weird.

Dump the CO2 and switch to Argon...

 

[FourTeeFive]

Quality rings make all the difference.

 

[arrowshooter]

Go flux core, or go home.

 

[No_Regerts]

For everyone talking about "quality" rings, Talleys are fine. Not everyone needs or wants rings that look like used tractor parts.

 

[eightyeight mag]

For everyone talking about "quality" rings, Talleys are fine. Not everyone needs or wants rings that look like used tractor parts.

Scopes with tubes the size of tractor axles require tractor parts to properly secure them

 

[3MTA3]

I've had good results with these, if you are looking for a streamlined look.

 

[P7M13]

A pinch off aint bad ... I've known a bunch who are are a half to full bubble off center.

Blasphemy

AOC's bubble is pegged way to the left.

 

[Velzey]

What did they do before all the scope levels and fancy gadgets? Old Weaver claw type rings and similar

 

[BrandonOR]

They always come out straight for me, maybe my welder is just better than others.........I just have a slight problem with them fogging up a little when it's raining, weird.

Have you tried scope dope? I used it on my glasses and my scopes and it helps a lot. You can't beat nature but with this stuff you can fight it off for a while.

 

[Joe13]

What did they do before all the scope levels and fancy gadgets? Old Weaver claw type rings and similar

That's when real men could eyeball straight, square, plumb and level

 

[HaveGun]

I've always just put it all together so it looks level and straight and never had an issue. But I never really shoot beyond a few hundred yards, so maybe I'm not doing it right?

 

[terdog]

^^^^
Same here.

But, I'm happy

 

[osprey]

Geeez guys it is really quite an enjoyable job to me. I have done hundreds for myself and friends and really never had any issue. I do now have precision levels to help but even before the fancy crap I would level the rifle with a known accurate level while clamped in a padded vice. I then mounted scope in lapped rings loosely and lined up vertical crosshair with plumb bob across the room. Tighten screws evenly in back and forth pattern keeping ring gap even on both sides. Do not over torque! Easy peasy.

 

[arrowshooter]

I used to just slap it on, give it a couple of little twists to make the X-hairs look straight and tighten the screws. I started getting headaches when I started using levels.

 

[Steel Head]

Get some American rifle company M-10 rings
No scope movement at all when tightening.
Best rings out there in my opinion.

 

[Ura-Ki]

My favorite is Mil standard M1913 rings on a commercial base! Couldn't figure out why I was shooting high and right! But man, those groups were sweet, Right @Joe13 lol!
After some head scratching undiscovered causes, turns out the base manufacture screwed up the labelling on the base packaging and sent me a commercial base, not a M1913!

 

[PaulB47]

1) Horizontally split rings.
2) lap the ring bottoms after mounting on gun.
3) put a bit of old-fashioned cloth electrical tape in the ring bottoms
4) put scope in and keep fiddling until everything ends up horizontal
5) tighten ring tops

If you use something liquid rather than electrical tape, step 4 is a lot easier, but step 5 is more fussy and you must keep your eyes on things as you tighten.

I have a few times even lapped the ring bottoms to the picatinny rail.

 

[Howard1955]

The physics of the thing are pretty straightforward. A round projectile is being shoved through and out of a round tube.

From the perspective of the bullet, it doesn't matter if the round tube is rolled one way or another. The barrel of the cannon, or rifle, can be in any position, and it won't change how the bullet moves through and out of it.

When we start aiming and adjusting to hit a bullseye, the relationship of our eyes, the sights (or scope, etc), and the barrel come into play. If the scope is canted when we fire, our aim is off. (The barrel can be canted, but the scope cannot be canted.)

A good scope mount should have the scope aligned with the barrel. A bad mount can have the scope pointing slightly off the center line of the barrel.

Once you have the scope mounted to the rifle, put a level on it. There are a lot of bubble levels available, but I like the electronic Send-It level.

Hang a weight on a string, to give you a reference point that is exactly vertical.

Put the rifle on a table, and look through the scope. Align the vertical line in the scope with the plumb line. While the rifle is held steady in that position (I used a stack of books on each side of the rifle last time), set your level.

You're done. When shooting at distant targets, glance at your level. When it's level, your scope reticle is exactly vertical.

At closer distances, a slight cant of the scope won't make enough difference for most people to notice. At longer distances, a canted scope causes a noticeable difference in the point of impact.

I like the Send-It level because a green light comes on when it's level. I can see it without taking my eye off the scope.

Send iT Original Electronic Level System - Short Action Precision

Long Range Arms has changed the game when it comes to precision shooting levels. If you want to take your long range game to the next level, the “Send iT” electronic level is your answer and here are some of the reasons why:You never have to take your eyes off the reticle. The “Green” LED can be...

www.shortactionprecision.com

 

[Spitpatch]

One thing that will be cool is the store that is sending my rifle back to Winchester is going to remount and bore sight my scope.

NEVER...NEVER trust a "store" to install optics.

With rare exception (i.e.: someone you'd trust with your only car for a month), NEVER trust anyone else to install YOUR optics that you will depend on.

Old-style Weaver rings have never failed me. (50-plus years). Yes, they are problematic toward achieving vertical to bore, but a couple "Undo" and "Redo" cycles surmount the issue.

I DO very often replace them with something of higher dollar-value, but also on a number of occasions have sought them out: There are few ring/base arrangements that can match the low-altitude result of the Weaver system when a lowest possible-mounted scope is the goal (stock comb designed for irons, etc.). The older Weaver "low" rings were even lower than newer ones.

Having someone else bore-sight your optics is a puzzlement to me as well. The process is quite simple: 5-10 minutes at most, and allows one to develop familiarity with the entire scope/mount system arrangement. Especially with mount systems with windage adjustments (JR, STD, etc.), bore sighting your own outfit allows you to keep your reticle closer to the center of the lens for best clarity. This will not be remotely considered by any "store" employee. True bore-sighting can never be matched by any "gadget" sold for such.

Best method is at night with a distant street lamp as the "target". (All safety admonitions apply.)