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Very helpful, thank you very much for taking the time to explain.Best idea is to call tech support at Redding reloading. The guy there explains it really well. Worth the call.
Here goes my version of it.
All reloading is about being absolutely consistent in practice after finding the sweet spot of bullet and charge. A lot of that is brass prep and a big hunk of THAT is getting the right and consistent neck tension.
A bushing die let's you control that by changing the diameter you squeeze the neck down to. The theory has some flaws but it's a good place to start.
To get the correct bushing you have two ways to do it. Take a piece of loaded ammo with the brass and bullet you want to use and measure the outside diameter with your calipers. Do a few rounds and turn them as you measure then average the measurements.
Then think about how much pressure on the bullet you want to have and subtract that twice. For instance with 6mm I might get an average outer diameter of the loaded round of .273" and I may want a bullet tension of .002" so I subtract that twice (one for each side of the bullet) giving me a bushing size of .269. That is the easy way.
The harder way is to measure the bullet and get the average. .243 in my case. Then get an average measurement of the case wall of your brass and add that to the bullet diameter twice. In my case .015 (x2). Then take the amount of pressure away twice. In my case .002". This leaves .269". This is the better method because you account for each component separately and can find anomalies that might be there.
The variables that are going to account for most variations are brass wall thickness and the amount of tension you want to add. Some guys like ..003" tension or more.
If you want to really control the pressure though you might want to think about turning your necks. This will regularize the case wall. If you go that route call Rodger at K&M precision reloading. And he can set you up and explain how to use the tools.
All this presupposes that you anneal your brass which effects the hardness of the brass and thus spring back and tension. That is another can of worms. I borrow time on others machines. I don't have one myself. I anneal every third or fourth reload. Hotter calibers like 300WM will hatden faster than your 6.5. Lower temperatures aid in case life and hardness.
Many reloader, not me, get multiple bushings to allow for trying different tensions.
I do this slightly differently. I undersized my bushing slightly to make the neck ID too tight. Then I use a custom mandrel ($20 from K&M) to expand to my correct ID of .243" which with the spring back of the brass gives me light tension. I also have a mandrel in .239" for higher tension which does not shoot as well for me.
Hope that helps.