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Model 10 "Race Gun" Question

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The other day I was at a gun shop looking at S&W Model 10s and the shop owner showed me two Model 10 "race guns." My question is this, what does a gunsmith do to the action to make the trigger stroke so short? Which modifications does a gunsmith make to a revolver's action to make it a "race gun?"

Thanks for answering my questions.
 
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SHORT ACTION CONVERSION
This option, when incorporated in the competition tune, reduces rearward trigger travel to absolute minimum while insuring cylinder lock-up before hammer fall. This is a competition only option and NOT PERFORMED on duty weapons or weapons used for personal protection. While this decreases lock time, trigger pull MAY BE INCREASED to guarantee reliable ignition. It is also recommended that trigger stop be set to remove single action capability. Call for more information on this option.

Source
<broken link removed>

This is an old school PPC "race gun"
<broken link removed>

Without knowing what sport it was built for it's hard to say what may have been done to it.
 
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Unless your shooting matches where speed is king I wouldn't worry about getting slick, short da trigger pulls. With practice you can get pretty damn good at banging them out accurately with the stock old school S&W trigger. I was surprised at how good I can shoot my M15-3 after practicing stroking the trigger with snap caps.
 
OP
M
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Thanks for the links and info.

I was told that the race guns under the glass were used for police speed steel in the 70s-80s.

Anyways, I wasn't really interested in buying the guns, but I did want to know what was done to make them so slick/fast.

I'm still on the hunt for a good model 10.
 
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Thanks for the links and info.

I was told that the race guns under the glass were used for police speed steel in the 70s-80s.

Anyways, I wasn't really interested in buying the guns, but I did want to know what was done to make them so slick/fast.

I'm still on the hunt for a good model 10.
They are out there :s0155:

If I was looking, I'd be looking more for good mechanical condition than cosmetics. Lots of deals to be had on former duty weapons that saw little use. I had an m10 that was a former security guards weapon, not pretty but in good shape and an excellent shooter. Would have been pretty if it were refinished.. oh well.
 
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Unless your shooting matches where speed is king I wouldn't worry about getting slick, short da trigger pulls. With practice you can get pretty damn good at banging them out accurately with the stock old school S&W trigger. I was surprised at how good I can shoot my M15-3 after practicing stroking the trigger with snap caps.

Jonathan, you're talking about pulling the trigger enough for the cylinder to lock, then finishing the pull to fire, aren't you? I've done this with my S&W 638 and it really works.
 
Thanks for the links and info.

I'm still on the hunt for a good model 10.
I bought a Model 10-6 from a LEO friend when he upgraded to a .357 in the mid-70's. It has honest holster wear from less than 2 years as his duty weapon. I would estimate the finish at 85%. Mechanically, it is flawless. It has been in my safe, unfired since the mid-80's. I have one HKS speedloader and an 70's era leather Brauer Bros (St Louis, MO) black leather holster in nearly new condition. I'd let it all go for $425 to a good home. PM me if you have a serious interest and I will e-mail you pictures.
 

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