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What is Better, MOA or MIL

  • MOA is best, don't waste your time with MIL.

    Votes: 18 60.0%
  • MIL is best, after all the Marines use it.

    Votes: 12 40.0%

  • Total voters
    30
this is like asking which is better...metric or imperial (we use imperial in the USA...ie: inches, feet, pounds, ounces, etc.. metric is millimeter, centimeter, meter, milligram, gram, kilogram, etc.)

They both work. Pick which one is easier for you.

That's easy, metric is better. Moving the little decimal point is lot easier than learning and using 1/2", 1/4", 1/8" 1/16", 1/32", 1/64", 1/128" and inches, feet, yards, mile.The sooner this country accepts that and switches the sooner our kids can compete in mathematics.

"Mil" has nothing to do with "military." It is an abbreviation for milliradian, 1/6400 of a degree in angular measure. That's 3.6 inches at 100 yards, or 3 feet at l,000 yards.

Mil/Mil for me.
 
My brain works better in MOA. I just bought a Leupold scope with a Horus type reticle that has 60MOA hold-overs (that's 5' for those of you in Vancouver, WA) not counting the 80MOA travel on the turrets.

I'm going to shoot NYC from the top of an oak tree in my yard.... LOL!

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A lot of this is personal preference. I know guys who swear by MOA and others that swear by the other one. :D


I actually have both so it doesn't really matter to me its just training your brain. I would suggest getting one and sticking with it. Another words don't be like me get one and learn to use it well.
 
Mil for me! Its going to allow for more precision at longer ranges, and combined with a good compass and angle meter, it is impossable to equal its performance with MOA! Theoretically, MOA is/was supposed to be faster to use, and simpler, but with experience MIL just works better!:cool:
 
As a hunter, (not a sniper or competition target shooter) I don't fiddle with the knobs once the hairs are set @ 200 yards.
Mine have graduations who's numerical values I have long forgotten.
From there, all the rifles which I hunt with can hit anything within 8 " of the cross hair, (some much less) @ 300 yards. (my self imposed maximum without serious support) (Plus 2 at 100, and minus 8 @ 300 (aprox)
Knowing that, and reasonable at estimating distance, I can easily tweak my long shots some . I've yet to be disappointed.
When I see hair in the sights, performing math calculations and fiddling with graduations or knobs is the last thing I want to think about, likely they'd walk off while I was still fiddling.

But that's just me, I know others who get a kick out of such things.
 
As a hunter, (not a sniper or competition target shooter) I don't fiddle with the knobs once the hairs are set @ 200 yards.
Mine have graduations who's numerical values I have long forgotten.
From there, all the rifles which I hunt with can hit anything within 8 " of the cross hair, (some much less) @ 300 yards. (my self imposed maximum without serious support) (Plus 2 at 100, and minus 8 @ 300 (aprox)
Knowing that, and reasonable at estimating distance, I can easily tweak my long shots some . I've yet to be disappointed.
When I see hair in the sights, performing math calculations and fiddling with graduations or knobs is the last thing I want to think about, likely they'd walk off while I was still fiddling.

But that's just me, I know others who get a kick out of such things.
I cant get the deer to stand there long enough to get my calculator out, so I just go with plain cross hairs:D
 
I think Mil is the more popular but I am sticking with MOA but just because that is what I have as well as most of the people I shoot with. Mil is actually a little bigger adjustment per click since 0.1 mil is 0.36" at 100 compared to 1/4 MOA being 0.262" at 100 yards.

As long as everyone involved in your shooting is using the same system, it really doesn't matter. Doesn't matter if it is inches or centimeters or yards or miles or kilometers.

Let me give an example...... You and I are shooting together, both with MOA scopes. You shoot at the 750 yard target and miss. I see where the bullet hit in my spotting scope (which has a MOA reticle) and tell you that you missed my 3.25 MOA right and 4.75 MOA low. Now you can either dial your correction with the turrets on your scope or hold using your reticle. Doesn't matter how many inches/centimeters/feet/meters you missed by. No math involved. You can substitute any distance for 750 in this example and it still works. You can substitute Mil behind 3.25 and 4.75, still works as long as we are both talking about the same units.

I will say that if you are having to range your target with your reticle, Mil is probably easier as mentioned above.
 
That's easy, metric is better. Moving the little decimal point is lot easier than learning and using 1/2", 1/4", 1/8" 1/16", 1/32", 1/64", 1/128" and inches, feet, yards, mile.The sooner this country accepts that and switches the sooner our kids can compete in mathematics.

"Mil" has nothing to do with "military." It is an abbreviation for milliradian, 1/6400 of a degree in angular measure. That's 3.6 inches at 100 yards, or 3 feet at l,000 yards.

Mil/Mil for me.



The metric system never put men on the moon, or built the SR71 Blckbird... ;)
 
I have scopes with reticles/dials in MOA/MOA , MIL/MOA, MIL/MIL and Crosshair Only / MOA. Except for zeroing, I don't give a rat's arse about which system is on my dials or reticle - it's a part of learning the rifle.

On my phone I have several ballistics programs, but the one I use most is Shooter.

When I'm playing beyond 300 yards, I'll range the target and then pull out shooter. I have my dope loaded into it already which I've done at the range with a chronograph.
Stuff I put in while setting up (maybe a minute):
  • Scope adjustment metrics (MIL vs. MOA)
  • Zero range of scope
  • Altitude, ambient temperature, humidity
  • Which cartridge and loading (different dope depending on bullet/powder/chrony data, etc)
Stuff I put in before the shot (< 10 seconds):
  • Shooting angle
  • Distance to target
  • Wind speed and direction
Shooter tells me where my dial needs to be set.
Trigger time is where you learn the difference between calculated vs. actual and begin to intuitively know it.

For temp, humidity and wind, I use a Brunton. Great tool. Estimating the wind is a whole other issue.
To learn the wind, I spent a bunch of time walking around the sagebrush in Wyoming. I'd feel a breeze, pull up the Brunton and see what it was. Turns out, what I estimated to be 10mph was actually about 3, and I discovered how hard it is to stand up straight in a 20 mile cross wind. The next level of learning is seeing how it affects the foliage and grass, then looking for variable areas of wind. IMO, wind is seldom consistent across your entire shot distance.
It's a lot of fun, a cathartic form of meditation. I still suck at it though.
 
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