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MOA and scope adjustments

Ura-Ki

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Thanks I just wanted to make sure I wasn’t supposed to be doing it... I think it would be super tough to do.
TO be honest, it's really best used for close in work, Pistol, Shotgun or ( Limited to Irons, with exceptions ) Rifle! basically any thing you would benefit from having both eyes open/wide field of view, that's when having both eyes open is really helpful! Think of a situation where you have to shoot around cover or obstructions, or your on the move, being able to shoot with both eyes open is very helpful as you can see what's around you and what's around any potential target and could identify multiple targets you may need to deal with!
 
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WhyElKay

WhyElKay

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TO be honest, it's really best used for close in work, Pistol, Shotgun or ( Limited to Irons, with exceptions ) Rifle! basically any thing you would benefit from having both eyes open/wide field of view, that's when having both eyes open is really helpful! Think of a situation where you have to shoot around cover or obstructions, or your on the move, being able to shoot with both eyes open is very helpful as you can see what's around you and what's around any potential target and could identify multiple targets you may need to deal with!
I was using one eye shooting pistol but got some advice to keep both open and that’s gone really well. As far as using the rifle scope with both eyes open...I just tried it and more power to anyone who can use a rifle scope with both eyes open. :s0140:
 

6Corsa6

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It’s a drop zone 223/5.56 BDC reticle
What do you mean by hold over?
Since your scope has a bdc you need to zero it to what the manufacturer tells you to zero it to if you want the bdc hashmarks to be accurate. If you only want to use the main hashmark then zero for any distance you want to

Screenshot_20190822-212519_Drive.jpg

I have a vortex strikeeagle and need to have 50 yrd zero for hashmarks to be accurate.
 

parallax

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If you make no changes and hold zero on your target at 300 yards, It may well hit above the bulls eye. If it does, I will tell you why on monday. ;)
 
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Can I just use the lines in my reticle to do the adjustment? count the lines and aim high/low instead?
What @Kruel J said. Since you have a BDC reticle, it makes sense to use the lines. The manual for the scope should say something like if you zero at 100, the hash marks below are for 200, 300, etc. So no need to click for elevation under ideal conditions, but things like temperature and wind may change that. That's presuming the BDC scope is "tuned" to the round or the round moves at the velocity expected for the drop compensation to work.

I have a Nikon that works wonderfully that way.
 
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Do you shoot rifle with both eyes open? I’ve been reading tips for consistency while bench shooting and i run across the tip of keeping both eyes open..
The philosophy behind it is when you close an eye you lose that sides peripheral you'll not be able to see an enemies coming from that side. Most people have no issue keeping both eyes open on lower variable Scopes, or red dots.
 

Reno

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@Yvette

I’d at least check the ammo you are using with a chronograph.

Say the box says 3000 FPS. Yet they tested that out of a 20” barrel. You have a 16” barrel. You might only be getting 2800 FPS. The scope is likely calculated for 55 grain FMJ as I’ve seen that used most for bullet compensating reticles. The scope may require a 55 grain bullet at a certain FPS for it to work properly at longer distances.

If you own a smartphone or tablet get onto the App Store of whatever you own and buy a ballistic calculator. Whatever your choice, there are a couple.

I use one called Shooter. Here is a basic entry I did up really quick. I already input all the data about my rifle. IE the twist rate. Barrel length, optic height, etc. The app has preloaded data for bullets. However you can enter your information manually too. I input a basic 3000 FPS to post this. However if I changed it to 2800 FPS you can see the change. If your scope is set up for a specific ammo and FPS. It may not always work with everything.

For this reason I’m not truly a huge fan of bullet compensating reticles.

However, the manual on the scope should tell you what each mark is in minute of angle, so you can still get good use out of the hash marks.

If you are only shooting to 300 or so. Kentucky windage works just fine as well. IE if your ballistics State your bullet will drop 12” at 300 yards. Hold your point of aim 12” above where you want to hit.

9475B4BC-5DB8-453E-82D2-53A16BC123CA.jpeg B9AD77CC-42B3-46AC-AA66-468760EEED13.jpeg
 

11Charlie

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i zero all my 5.56 rifles at 50 yards. i do this because generally you will be about an inch and a half high at 100 and dead on at 200ish.

here is a trajectory chart i found on the 50 yard zero for xm193(55gr) ammo.

View attachment 610643
This!!! And if the Army is right then its gotta be true!!!:D
 
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WhyElKay

WhyElKay

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This didn’t go as well as I had hoped. I shot top of the center circle at 100 and magically with no adjustments at 200 hit the same spot. Why? I’m bad at shooting or maybe I’m just that good at being consistently inconsistent at my bench setup? I didn’t have enough time to work on it because I thought I could tough out the over gassing issue but I cannot. Rifles going back to Ruger. Did get the opportunity to shoot another AR amazing the difference without choking on gas! And I did learn the concept of scope adjustment with that one. Just may consider going with a bolt action on my next rifle.
 
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I shoot all systems and LR/ELR with both eyes open. i am right handed and left eye dominate and have shot that way as far as i can remember. I would suggest if you want to shoot both eyes open do it incrementally during dry fire drills. Don't force it, throw it up and let your eyes compensate normally. if you force it you usually experience a lot of eye fatigue in a very short time.
just my two cents
 

parallax

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This didn’t go as well as I had hoped. I shot top of the center circle at 100 and magically with no adjustments at 200 hit the same spot. Why? I’m bad at shooting or maybe I’m just that good at being consistently inconsistent at my bench setup? I didn’t have enough time to work on it because I thought I could tough out the over gassing issue but I cannot. Rifles going back to Ruger. Did get the opportunity to shoot another AR amazing the difference without choking on gas! And I did learn the concept of scope adjustment with that one. Just may consider going with a bolt action on my next rifle.

remember, what i posted a few posts back ( that you would be hitting high?).
 

parallax

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check this out.... measure the distance between the center of your scope and center of your barrel. ( just for acedemic purposes.). the farther apart they are, the weirder things will get especially if your are zeroing at 100 yards. the problem is imagine you have a perfectly straight laser beam coming out of your barrel. and you were able to put the dot on a target at 100 yards,( thats your imaginary bullet), if your scope is much higher than your barrel you will have to adjust it DOWN to match the laser dot at 100 yards, as that will be where the 2 lines intersect,( you are adjusting scope to match impact of bullet ), now when you shoot out to lets say 300 yards, you put your scope on the zero of your cross hairs, but your barrel is physically pointing higher, due to the scope being adjusted down to hit at 100 yards.... make sense?. hope this explaination makes sense..you may need to build up a dope book, and document where things are hitting.,, or to make things tighter, get scope rings that keep your scope closer to the barrel without actually touching the barrel. and if this aint, it,, wouldnt be the first time i was mistaken... LOL
 
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A 55 grain projectile going 3000 FPS zeroed at 100 will drop about 3 inches at 200. So the answer to your first question is no. There is NO "automatically" anything. At 200 yards there isn't going to be a drastic difference, meaning an inch or so either way depending on projectile weight and velocity but as you stretch out even farther things change exponentially. Find a bullet drop calculator. There are a few phone apps that do this well or books are available too.

Your understanding of MOA and adjustment is correct, but things like windage, elevation, humidity and temperature affect the projectile so again, nothing automatic.

The lines in your reticle were predetermined for a specific bullet weight and velocity. Unless you know that information, they are reference points at best. Even then, most reticles I've used with BDC built in are "rough and dirty" and will never replace correct turret adjusting.
Great post J. We also have to be mindful of what scope shes using as well. Some rifle scopes just dont track accurately. Some track exceptionally well, as you also know. From the sounds of it, her rifle/scope were not doing well at the 200 and 300 yard targets. Do you remember what the issue was? Rifle or scope? Maybe shooter?
 
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I was using one eye shooting pistol but got some advice to keep both open and that’s gone really well. As far as using the rifle scope with both eyes open...I just tried it and more power to anyone who can use a rifle scope with both eyes open. :s0140:
Thats how i learned on fast targets, like running jack rabbits in Nevada where i grew up. It helps tremendously with quick target acquisition, even when using a scoped rifle. Then when transitioning over to competitive trap shooting, it was a huge help. The same can be said about pistol shooting.
 

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