After researching the topic, I found what P7M13 concluded was the consensus.I don't do 300 AAC, but I do several other cases where there is significant case shortening and neck + shoulder reforming.
Brass consistency and annealing are key elements to your success.
I agree on the time worth piece! However self reliance and economic down turn empty shelves… and on and on. I want the technology. Similarly I want the casting technology complete with molds and equipment to load go to firearms!What is your time worth?
Here's reconditioned brass from Optics Planet
Top Brass .300
And from Midway
It may have been caused by grit left behind from the cut-off wheel. Abrasives are never a good thing to run through a die.I converted a lot of 223 to 300blk back when 300blk first came out and I couldn't get factory brass. I used R-P and commercial Federal brass with good success. I still have a some left. These days I consider it "disposable" brass since I don't have an annealing machine and don't have time to anneal by hand. I use it for pinking ammo or for situations where I can't recover my brass.
One thing I learned is that it is best to de-burr the case after you trim it before you run it in the sizing die. I was cutting my brass down with a jig in a mini chop saw. I had to send my sizing die back to Forster to have them polish it because it stated leaving scratches on the case necks. My theory is that the little burrs and bits of brass left by the chop saw slowly wore tiny scratches in the die over the course of running thousands of pieces of brass into the die. Haven't seen the problem develop again after I started de-burring the cut first.
I won't 'pass judgement' (as I used to cast bullets) but casting is an entire 'subculture' of reloading - so all I recommend is you study all facets of it (carefully) before jumping in.Similarly I want the casting technology complete with molds and equipment to load go to firearms!