Making 300blackout brass

[OR_VARMINT_HUNTER]

Does anyone make there own 300 brass from 223 just curious what tools and steps there are did some reading on Google kinda of have an idea but was looking for a little more help

Read More

 

[40Garand]

Cutting down fireball or 223/556 brass should be your absolute last resort. Start out with new or once fired 300BO brass.

Sages Reloading Supply <<<Give Sage a try!

 

[OR_VARMINT_HUNTER]

Cutting down fireball or 223/556 brass should be your absolute last resort. Start out with new or once fired 300BO brass.

Sages Reloading Supply <<<Give Sage a try!

Curious why do u say that? I see lots of ppl doing it

 

[40Garand]

Curious why do u say that? I see lots of ppl doing it

How many reasons shall I list? No swaging, extra trimming, sizing, deburring, extra tumbling. Shall I keep going?

 

[saxon]

last resort?
why waist time and or money when you can do this?


get one of these or the like

Speedy 300 Blackout Case Cutting Trimming Jig

Fast and accurate cutting jig to convert .223 / 5.56 brass cartridges into 300 Blackout

www.squirreldaddy.com

watch out for this
Neck thickness data:

Factory Blackout brass

Gemtech (factory 300 BLK) - 0.011"
PNW Arms - 0.011"
RP - 0.010"

Converted brass

Good:
ADI - 0.012"
Aguila - 0.012"
A USA - 0.012"
FC - 0.013/0.014" [Note 1]
GFL - 0.012" (Fiocchi) Some GFL may have different thickness
HB - 0.013"
Hornady (223 headstamp) - 0.011"
Hornady (nickel 223) - 0.012"
IK03 - 0.012" [Note 4]
IMI - 0.012" [Note 4] Listed on both lists, but seems like more often good than bad.
IVI - 0.013"
IVI ('85) - 0.012" (runs great)
LC - 0.011"
LC (converted blank) - 0.012"
M193 - 0.011/0.012"
Norinco 223 - 0.010"
NOSLER - 0.012"
PERFECTA 223 rem. - 0.012"
PMC - modern "bronze" and "X-tac" are good, older PMC with small letters may have problems
PS - 0.011/0.012"
PSD - 0.011"
RA - 0.013"
RA ('69) - 0.012"
RP .223 - 0.011"
SSA - 0.012"
TAA - 0.013-0.014" [Note 4]
Tula - 0.0115"
TW 67 - 0.012"
TZZ - 0.012"
WCC - 0.010/0.011" (Some less common WCC headstamps run thicker, but the majority are good to go)
Winchester - 0.011"
WIN NT - 0.011"
WMA - 0.011" (Winchester Military, equivalent to WCC)


Thick neck wall, bad without neck turning:

AB 556 - .015" to .016"
ATI - 0.015" [Note 3]
CBC - 0.014/0.015"
CJ6 - 0.015"
CJ 8 - .014"
DNL - 0.016"
FNM - 0.016" [Note 3]
FRONTIER - 0.015"
GECO - 0.015/0.016"
Hot Shot - 0.014" [Note 3]
HRTRS ( Herters?) - 0.017"
ICC - Reported as bad
IK03 - 0.015" [Note 4]
IMI - 0.015" [Note 4]
IVI - 0.015"
KFA .223 REM - 0.015"-0.019"
L2A2 - Reported as bad
MKE13 - Anecdotally reported as troublesome
MPA - 0.015"
Norma - 0.015"
NPA - [Note 3]
PMC (old headstamp) - 0.015"
PMP - 0.015"
PPU - 0.014/0.015" [Note 3]
RAM 223 - .014"
RORG - 0.015"
RWS - 0.014-0.015"
S&B - 0.015/0.017"
SADU - 0.014/0.015"
TAA - 0.013-0.014" [Note 4]
T - 0.015
SADU 5.56 - 0.014-0.015"
Wolf Brass .223 - 0.014"

General notes:

There's no consistent difference between "5.56" and "223" when it comes to brass.

 

[OR_VARMINT_HUNTER]

How many reasons shall I list? No swaging, extra trimming, sizing, deburring, extra tumbling. Shall I keep going?

So just cause of all the extra work not a safety issue if done right

 

[40Garand]

If you want to take 5+ more steps to get to the prize then knock yourselves out! Not saying I wont ever go this route but I'm not desperate enough at this point in my life.

 

[saxon]

#1trim to length (leave it just a tad long) deburr
#2 sizing die full length size
#3 trim to length
#4 prime and load
done

 

[40Garand]

#1trim to length (leave it just a tad long) deburr
#2 sizing die full length size
#3 trim to length
#4 prime and load
done

#1 Pick up free or buy used brass
#2 Sort
#3 deprime
#4 swage
#5 tumble
Still haven't got to your list yet.

 

[edzz]

How many reasons shall I list? No swaging, extra trimming, sizing, deburring, extra tumbling. Shall I keep going?

If you don't want to go to the trouble of rolling your own why use factory brass, just pony up and buy factory loaded ammo... save all that trouble of having to be a reloader.
For me I will use factory brass if I have it if not it's really not hard to make.
So... please "keep going".

 

[40Garand]

If you don't want to go to the trouble of rolling your own why use factory brass, just pony up and buy factory loaded ammo... save all that trouble of having to be a reloader.
For me I will use factory brass if I have it if not it's really not hard to make.
So... please "keep going".

Some of us don't load for quantity but rather for quality.

 

[saxon]

#1 Pick up free or buy used brass
#2 Sort
#3 deprime
#4 swage
#5 tumble
Still haven't got to your list yet.

#1 you have to do that with any brass you keep
#2 you have to do that with any brass you pick up
#3this is covered in my stage #2
#4 is also covered in my stage #2
#5 is also a part of picking up brass but not even needed if you buy used clean brass....



any others?

 

[Helocat]

How many reasons shall I list? No swaging, extra trimming, sizing, deburring, extra tumbling. Shall I keep going?

The OP did not ask "should I cut down or buy original 300blk brass. Sounds like @40Garand may not have experience with this. I do and I disagree with 40Garands resoning to not do it.

@OR_VARMINT_HUNTER making your own 300blk is easy and if you enjoy reloading its just part of that process. Can be crazy easy or complicated if you want to make it. The #1 thing is exactly what @saxon just posted, learn what .223/5.56 brass will work, rest of that information is on the 300blktalk.com forum.

STICKY - Good/Bad brass list converting 5.56->300blk » 300BlkTalk

www.300blktalk.com

As for the "laborious" reasons posted by 40Gar, personally for me I let the Dillon 1050 rocking the Dillon1500 case trimmer, 300blk forming die, built in swaging, with AmmoBot automation kick out killer 300blk brass for me. Dump clean Lake City brass in, out comes great 300blk out brass as intended. For others using the jig to chop brass then do final trim and form works for them. Both work, in the end you have great brass to work with.

As for quality, I have Lapua 300blk factory that shoots no different from my homemade LC 300 brass. Literary no difference in accuracy, functionality or reliability. Just like shooting my own loaded ammo, I have more confidence in what I produce vrs. Relying on someone else to make my brass for me "assuming" its commercial, it must be better.


Lastly..... I have 300blk brass for days.

 

[BrandonQuixote]

Its truly the best way to breathe new life into rolled necked, split neck or otherwise unsizable 556 brass. Its really not that hard to get the jig and a harbor freight cut off saw. Form it with a 300blk die and trim/deburr as anything else. Considering the amount of work it takes to size, trim, deburr and otherwise prep bottle neck cartridges, this isn't significantly more work. Considering the currently climate its also the best way to make unobtanium brass from moderately difficult to find brass. The squirrel daddy jig is awesome. So are their damn-near-unbreakable decapping rods.

 

[edzz]

Some of us don't load for quantity but rather for quality.

Are you implying that wildcatters do not load for quality / precision?

 

[HighlandLofts]

I bought the HF cutoff saw and Squirrel Daddy jig and two extra blades.
It is quick & easy.
I have thousands of 223/5.56 cases.
I have extra time.
I enjoy all aspects of reloading.
I'm far from cheap when it comes to my reloading stuff, so any savings doesn't really doesn't matter to me.
I resize 223/5.56 in to 7mmTCU, the first resized cases first reloaded for 7mmTCU are close to accurate as the fire formed cases.
If you enjoy doing the conversion, go do it.

 

[arrowshooter]

So to answer the OP's question it's like below as I posted in another thread. The jig is a ZEP and the red goodie that you can attach a vacuum too was made by a member here.

What's left after turning 300+ 5.56 cases into 300 BLK ?

Necks:

Trim after forming:

Shavings from chamfer and debur:

Finished 300 BLK:

Oh, and they shoot just fine.

 

[OR_VARMINT_HUNTER]

So to answer the OP's question it's like below as I posted in another thread. The jig is a ZEP and the red goodie that you can attach a vacuum too was made by a member here.

What's left after turning 300+ 5.56 cases into 300 BLK ?

Necks:

Trim after forming:

Shavings from chamfer and debur:

Finished 300 BLK:

Oh, and they shoot just fine.

What are u using to do the trimming after cutting and sizing

 

[arrowshooter]

Lee Case Trimmer chucked up in a drill press. You can see it in the upper left handish corner of the photo.

 

[OR_VARMINT_HUNTER]

Did u have to modify it to fit drill press?