This is how I make mine. ^^^I put together 4 stands last fall. Mix of PVC for the base with 2x2 uprights.
Got some cheap plastic poster sign material from the home center and staple my targets to it.
To keep them from tipping over I drilled some holes in the PVC base and just spike 'em in place. They break down into small enough pieces that I can tote them in an oversized duffle/drag bag.
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I think if you look at you tube you will find plenty of these frames being made for cheap, and I'm afraid since the plans such as they are are free for the taking, I rather doubt you would sell very many of them. Just as soon as your buyer sees them, he'll think to himself, crap I can make that!This was really easy to build and I would encourage anyone who shoots outdoors to build one. The hardest part was smelling the fumes from the glue, but it was actually really fun and satisfying to build.
I am trying to think of other things I could build out of pvc, if I could get the pvc for a good price I would make these and sell them!
The metal stands are much better, IMO. One "Miss" from a .22LR and you could be out $33.00!Here's one for about $35 bucks, +/-. It's made by @HatPointTarget , out of Oregon City. It's all polymer plastic, withstands bullet holes and is really light weight. I have one and really like it.
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No dog in the fight, just like the idea, the flexibility and convenience of it.
Actually, the Polymer plastic material doesn't shatter. It's kind of soft, not like a PVC. They take a bullet and keep on standing. The builder has put many different calibers through it and it's still in good usable shape. Same with his upright 1x2's. I just use wood 1x2's, but he makes them in the Polymer material too.The metal stands are much better, IMO. One "Miss" from a .22LR and you could be out $33.00!
Pretty nice and simple, Direct! If you hit the PVC with a bullet, then you need MORE practice and sight adjustments!
The thread is titled PVC and that does Shatter, so...Actually, the Polymer plastic material doesn't shatter. It's kind of soft, not like a PVC. They take a bullet and keep on standing. The builder has put many different calibers through it and it's still in good usable shape. Same with his upright 1x2's. I just use wood 1x2's, but he makes them in the Polymer material too.
The big benefit is the weight. If you're carrying a heavy steel stand out over 100 yards, this is a good alternative. Long distance shooters love em. Strap them to your backpack and it's a piece of cake.
PVC definitely shatters.The thread is titled PVC and that does Shatter, so...
Nice, I like the idea of being able to put a metal rod in them for extra stability if and when needed.I made some much like some of the others here. I don't cap the ends of the bottom section as it saves a few nickles not buying the caps and it allows me to slide in 3-foot sections of rebar if I need weight because of wind.
I glue the bottom section together since it makes it easier to stack and move around the range (you don't have sections coming undone all the time) but is does make them take up more room.
I don't have a cross bar across the back of the "ground section" because when using short targets I don't have to worry about a low hit striking the cross bar.
I sized these to make the outside to outside distance across the inside edges of the upright tubes at 18.25 inches. This way I can drop in the 1x2 wood post and binder clip (or staple) NRA D-1, IPSC or IDPA silhouettes and have the posts pretty much perfectly upright. To do this the cross bar needs to be 13 inches with the elbows I used. Different elbows might take a bit more or less, depending on the depth of the socket and the size of the sweep.
The remaining pieces are 16-inches in length. This leaves a small section that I use for the low targets. I hope this is valuable for someone.