Lube inside the case mouth - how do you get it out

pinne65 · Mar 28, 2015

I'm doing necksizing only of my fireformed 308 brass. I dab every 4-5 case or so on the lube pad. Then I clean the inside with a cotton swab. This is kind of tedious. Is there a better way?

At first I though the amount of lube was negligable and wouldn't affect the powder but then I saw some powder sticking to the case wall inside the neck and thought it didn't feel right. I'm using RCBS lube #2. I also have Hornady one-shot spray on.

(I haven't gotten the carbide necksizer die someone suggested in one of my other threads earlier. But I plan to)

oli700 · Mar 28, 2015

I am a big OneShot fan. You cant use too much and it wont foul powder or primers.

If I were you I would spray them all in a block at a 45 degree angle from all 4 sides , reload , rinse and repeat .

JustShoot · Mar 28, 2015

If your Neck-sizing only there is no need to get any Lube inside the Neck wall ?. The Neck-size Bushing, only works and is Driven Up & Down stroke on the outside only .
I just take a little dab of Lube on fingers and quick roll all the Rifle Brass Neck's . Then just Neck-size only .
Same if your Body-Size/shoulder bump only . With then doing a Neck size only . No lube the Inside at all .
I got Ti coated & carbide bushing and I still also use a tiny bit of lube anyway . But I guess you Don't need if you choose . But I treat my precision rifle Brass Wayyyyy So much better respect than when carbide 'Dry'-Die sizing my 9mm Brass .

For Brass Cleaning . I do all my Brass re-size prep. then I just do the Brass wash as last step in my Resizing process, then Re-Load . Cleaning is a breeze anyway if you got form-fired brass anyway . Your only " Lubing " and work hardening the the outer-wall of the Necks .
So you just Neck-size . Do a quick mouth Chamfer and then do a quick Case wash in SS Media to wash inside and primmer pockets & dry . . or if your using Walnut that will fine do also .
' Or' if your in a hurry just wipe off the outside of Case Necks with a cloth after the Neck-Size only . Also Neck-Only, just don't wash the Brass a all, & just re-load and shoot, as they shoot exactly the same and accurate dirty as cleaned Brass .
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oli700 · Mar 28, 2015

I was going to say that lol....not .
thanks for the wisdom, I've never neck sized only but I will remember that

JustShoot · Mar 28, 2015

oli700 said:
I was going to say that lol....not .
thanks for the wisdom, I've never neck sized only but I will remember that

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Ya, Especially if the OP is doing .308 Brass on neck-size only as they are good for a lot of Re-Loads after the Chamber form-firing . Just Bump the Neck with Die & Load & Shoot . It don't get any easier and faster than just wipe clean & load .
.308 win. parent cartridge Brass is so easy, forgiving and versatile anyway unlike (example ) a very strait-wall Brass Case like 6BR . Tight Chamber-cuts & tight Neck's . Neck-only and Body Bump Die for resizing at a minimum for reload .
.

oli700 · Mar 28, 2015

you think that's ok if .308 are fired through the same semi auto as well ?

I'm helping a buddy find accuracy , I loaded some ladders for him with some Lake City once fired

He bought a small base die and I though it was going to tear my press off the bench lol

filsonhand · Mar 28, 2015

For neck sizing this would solve your lube dilemma

JustShoot · Mar 28, 2015

oli700 said:
you think that's ok if .308 are fired through the same semi auto as well ?

I'm helping a buddy find accuracy , I loaded some ladders for him with some Lake City once fired

He bought a small base die and I though it was going to tear my press off the bench lol

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Semi .308 . All depends on If, and how bad it bastardized the Brass on the extractions ? .. The right amount of Gas tuning & the right powder makes difference in how nice the Brass is abused with a Semi-auto .308 . Unless it's a HK Brass total bastardization with those spline grove Chamber cuts .. LOL .
*also. For Semi accuracy you can just do a Body-size only & a Neck-size only 'separately' for keeping good Neck tension consistency .

On your, ( ...Lake City once fired & a small base die )
If it's Mil surplus your going to have to take it easy on the 1st couple brass you lube & ease the Brass in & out slow & get the 'Dry' Die walls seasoned before you start to do full-Strokes on the full sizing .
I REALLY like a nice heavy cast Press for FL sizing and have it bolted down solid to a table . Also if it seems hard Sizing like your saying it always good to take easy anyway with those thicker weight LC Brass . I got an old Pacific cast Press with a ' Long Handle ' just for resizing only & just take it easy when you got heavy Brass that been blown-out pretty good after firing when on the FL sizing .
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oli700 · Mar 28, 2015

thank you for sharing your knowledge

SinisterSouthpaw · Mar 28, 2015

Someone using a FL sizer with the expander still in it can benefit from using ground mica (also called white graphite) which is not nearly as messy as black (real) graphite. Forster makes a handy case graphiter that you can set up easily to apply the graphite on both sides of the neck at the same time. You probably will not want to use sloppy liquid or spray lube for the body when using this stuff. Imperial sizing wax works wonders; Hornady has a similar product they call Unique. Have a clean washcloth sized rag handy to wipe off the case after lubing and sizing. If done right the tiny dab of imperial on the body and mica on the outside of the neck comes off in one quick wipe. You do not need to worry about mica inside the case, it is inert and being a dry lube, will not trap powder.

Of course after the very first sizing, if you are using a bushing type sizer and no expander, the mica can just sit on the bench and watch..........

orygun · Mar 28, 2015

I use One Shot and make sure to squirt a little into random case necks. Then after I size them I tumble them.

Jamie6.5 · Mar 29, 2015

I made a neck luber out of shot (#8, #6, #4) and some graphite, but you can use mica too.
But a couple of tablespoons of each size shot in a small jar, add in a Tbs full of graphite or mica, put the lid on and shake it inverted. The lube will coat the shot.
Then to lube the necks, you just plunge the shell's neck into the shot a couple of times, tap the shell on the edge of the jar to dislodge any shot and/or excess lube and proceed with loading.

AMProducts · Mar 29, 2015

Mica is really the best solution to this problem. You can buy the FA stuff, or you can just hit up the internet for "motor mica"

pinne65 · Mar 29, 2015

Thanks everybody for your input. I got very generous offer on mica from a member of this forum. I think I will be going that route.

CarlMc · Apr 16, 2015

Whenever I have fired brass I tumble it to get the majority of the crunk out that is hard on the dies. Then I decap, size, and trim. Then it goes back in the tumbler, which removes any remaining case lube, clears out the primer pockets some, and pulls out the little bits of brass trimmings that get left behind. It's now ready for reloading.