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Graf & Sons has Ramshot Zip 1lb at reasonably normal pricing.


Be mindful that shipping & hazmat get tacked on at about every online dealer. It's unlikely anyone will be having free hazmat deals going forwards, where it was reasonably common before.

If you buy 5 1lb kegs from Graf & Sons, price per Keg is round about $28.80 / lb. (shipping & hazmat included) High, however not too bad considering the current situation.

They are out of 4lb kegs, which would have brought pricing down quite a bit (back towards normalcy price). Had some delivered Friday which I ordered over 2 weeks prior. That's how long there shipping backlog is...
 
The one you can find. There are a bunch of them that work great. Powder is almost as hard to find as primmers right now. Look in your book, see which ones they list, whichever you can find, grab a pound of it.
Yeah i would definitely compile a list of any powders you can get data for and check every gun shop every chance you get. And as far as primers go... good luck. Ive been able to find powder locally on occasion. I have NOT seen primers on the shelves for MONTHS
 
Certainly would be a cheaper way to get started. Can I ask why, other than the obvious (to me anyway) fact that it would be easier to not make a mistake, you would suggest a single stage? One option I have on my list is the Lee Challenger Kit.. it's on sale for $130 on midway (Lee Challenger Breech Lock Single Stage Press Kit). I'm definitely not super set on a progessive... I just feel like I'll end up buying one in the future anyways so.. buy once cry once and all that. Thanks for the response.
I second starting with a good single stage press because there is a lot to learn and in this hobby not all mistakes are harmless. Learn on a single stage the basics. When you go to a progressive you will still ocassionally use the single stage equipment. This is the same advice i would give tn a close freind.

Another consideration is there is alot of good used equipment with a lot of life left in it for reasonable prices.
 
I also am a person who did not start reloading until earlier this year and I bought my first hunting license in WA State over 45 years ago. Better-late-then-never, and I have sons and grandsons who will enjoy having the reloading equipment when I stop. I am curently setup for 9mm and .223 and I was able to gather the components necessary before the shortage got even worse. (primers, powder, ect)... A few of my observations;

You are tiring to get started right at the peak of the shortages, everyone is out of everything. Here's a little out of the box thinking, why not buy a gun in a less popular caliber that you can get dies and components for. The process is the same and it gets you a new gun, what can be wrong with that?
The above quote is very good information...

Small pistol and small rifle primers can only be currently found for high cost or if you get lucky and visit a store that just had a small shipment arrive (or classified ad). I would consider a caliber that uses large primers (easier to find). It will be very fustrating to be all setup for reloading 9mm and .223 and realize that the primers for these are currently selling on Gunbroker for 3-6X the price of Cabelas...

I chose a turret reloading press (mine is a Redding T-7). For me, a turret press was the correct compromise between single-stage and progressive. I recently noticed multiple T-7s for sale in the classifieds for less than $250... I would also suggest considering a Forster Co-Axial single-stage press (watch a YouTube video).

A decision about what press is correct for you depends also on your budget, are you loading for volume .223 or loading a smaller number of high precision rounds for a bolt-action doing target competition? This is where I thought a turret press met both needs adequately.

Brass prep for rifle is time consuming, I would try to buy equipment that automates the process if you volume shoot.

Enjoy the experience.
 
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Whether you are new or old timer inspection throughout each stage is most important for safety not to mention consistent accuracy, as a beginner, a single stage press is your best route towards learning and safety. Once you tighten the allen on the die lock ring it is no big deal to change dies without readjustment, quickly. Even if you eventually want to go progressive, the same dies will still work on it and you will find a multitude of uses for the single stage press and glad you have it.
 
The one you can find. There are a bunch of them that work great. Powder is almost as hard to find as primmers right now. Look in your book, see which ones they list, whichever you can find, grab a pound of it.

This

My first several trips to the store took a long time, because I was looking up every powder to see if it had known loads for my application.... then someone on here suggested taking a pic from my reloading book so I have it handy. Big brain time. :D
 
I don't know if this has been mentioned yet, but there's a forster/ bonanza single stage press in the classified section here. I highly recommend that press.
 
Certainly would be a cheaper way to get started. Can I ask why, other than the obvious (to me anyway) fact that it would be easier to not make a mistake, you would suggest a single stage? One option I have on my list is the Lee Challenger Kit.. it's on sale for $130 on midway (Lee Challenger Breech Lock Single Stage Press Kit). I'm definitely not super set on a progessive... I just feel like I'll end up buying one in the future anyways so.. buy once cry once and all that. Thanks for the response.
Yes. Less going on all at once with a single stage. Additionally, you'll always have a use for a single stage press. Some people might even have several single stage presses along with a turret and progressive.
 
.... I'm definitely not super set on a progessive... I just feel like I'll end up buying one in the future anyways so.. buy once cry once and all that. Thanks for the response.

Even if you buy a progressive, you'll might want a single stage press because they're really handy to have on hand for random things. For example, pulling bullets (the kinetic hammer type are a pain -- a collet bullet puller is the way to go).

Anyway, I've been considering a progressive since I started reloading in 1995 -- you can definitely do a lot with a single stage press. As for the kit you referenced, it comes with more than my first kit did -- in particular the hand primer tool. For years I placed primers one at a time in the little cup on my press. My kit also didn't include a powder measure and so I hand weighed every charge. Those two things are the most time consuming and using the powder dropper and the hand primer makes things go pretty fast, even on a single stage.
 
Yeah, I've heard and have looked everywhere.. all the way down to 5+ pages on google, can't find anything in stock as far as small pistol primers go. I suspect those are probably the rarest right now. Next weekend I'm going to go to a handful of local stores and see if I can find anything. Will be on the lookout all week online.

Keep going back to the sites every day. I recently scored some small pistol primers by revisiting a site that had been sold out the day before. And don't just look at two or three -- look at a dozen or more.
 
My purchase lifecycle when it came to reloading:

RCBS Rockchucker II (Gifted :D )
Franklin Armory Tumbler (took me a few weeks to get through the years of brass I had saved)
Digital Scale
Analog Scale (couldn't even feel comfortable without analog verification, but that's me)
RCBS Hand Primer (sold it, didn't like it)
RCBS Powder thrower
RCBS case kicker (this has been a huge improvement for the single stage)

Now I have a decent system going, I'm still green, so this can probably be improved...

Tumble
Sort, under spec length goes on, over spec length goes to Bucket A
De-prime and re-size
Measure, under spec goes on, over spec goes to Bucket B
Tumble
Prime
Charge
Seat
Case gauge
Done!

Then I'll go back to the buckets and catch those cases up.
 
Lots of YouTube videos out there as well to help you get started!
Good info from all and I agree HOWEVER Be careful with some of the vids out there.

While there are a lot of them and most are well meaning I have watched several where the person(s) who made them based the information on how 'they' did things and while not necessarily 'wrong' they might be a bit confusing for a new comer.

I would hold off on the vids until you have reviewed the manual and get a good overview of the basics.
 
What would be a good powder to start with for 9mm?
Look for Bullseye or Unique made by Alliant
Clays by Hogdon
Accurate Arms (AA) #2
All are good pistol powders and I'm sure there are more but these are what I have personally used

I am a big fan of Unique. Unique is a very versatile powder and 1 pound will load a lot of 9mm. It can also be used for shot shells, lead rifle bullets and pistols.
It is also a bit dirty IMO but worth it.

I also recommend the Lee turret press. I found it very efficient, once you have your dies set up in a turret it just becomes simple
GET CARBIDE DIES!! These will save you the work and time spent lubing your brass. Carbide dies do not need lubing for straight-walled brass as in nearly, but not all pistol brass.
Put your dies in the turret and follow the written instructions for adjusting them to the proper seating etc. This may cost you a couple pieces of brass and bullets till you get them set properly.

OK so now you have your dies adjusted and you are ready to go on your Lee turret Press Let's start

1. Size and decap all your brass (After you decap you may consider running the brass through a tumbler to clean it up)
2. Rotate turret to bell die which opens the case mouth for bullet seating and do all your brass.
3. Seat new primers.
4. Add powder (Charging) and ALWAYS take a look at all of your charged cases to make sure they are indeed charged and they all have the same charge in them!
5. Rotate to seating die and seat and crimp bullets into your charged brass.
6. Shoot reloaded ammo and repeat

I cannot stress this part enough. Inspect your ammo Inspect each piece of brass as you put it in the case holder. Is it cracked? Does it look weird in any way. When in doubt, toss it out!
Squib loads (under or no charged) suck as they can lodge a bullet into your barrel and if you are paying attention, you'll notice the weak or non-existent bang! and stop immediately, unload the gun and check your barrel. (If you can't see though it, something is blocking it and it must be removed). If you aren't paying attention, you may fire a second round which will run into the stuck bullet and the resulting overpressures may blow your gun apart (AKA Kaboom!) and may take part of your hand and/or face with it.
The same applies to overloading a case with powder, most pistol cases have enough room for a double charge of powder which can also wreck your gun and good looks. So pay attention to what you are doing. No TV in the loading area etc. Every so often, dump one of your charges into the pan for your scale and see if it is good. If yes, dump the powder back into the case and continue.
A little paranoia is good when reloading If a cartridge doesn't look right at the end of the process, set it aside.
Another useful tool to have is a bullet puller. I like the RCBS Collet model. This allows you to disassemble suspect rounds and reuse the components.

Reloading is fun, It lets you experiment with loads to see what works best for your gun, It save you money and is generally a great hobby. For a reloading manual I highly recommend the Lyman manual. It has data acrodss the spectrum of powders and bullets and best of all it gas data for cast lead bullets as well.

I'm sure there will be some item I overlooked here so I will ask other experienced reloaders to fill in any gaps I may have left or errors.
Good luck and have fun with your new hobby!:s0155:
 
... That's why I bought Hornady lock rings to replace the rings on only the seating and decapping die. They're about $5.00 too. Oh, less... Amazon.com: Hornady Sure-LOC Lock Rings, 044606 (6 Pack): Sports & Outdoors
...

The hornady lock rings are the best way to go without question. The lock rings with the set screw that is perpendicular to the threads and works by pressing into the threads, sometimes come loose. The Hornady type are more like a threaded clam and the screw is larger and essentially oriented parallel and to the side of with the die threads -- it never contacts the threads at all, just clamps the locking nut in place and I've never had one those come loose. I use them on every die except sizing dies (which don't really need an immobile lock ring because they are brain dead simplet to set).

...
Brass prep for rifle is time consuming, I would try to buy equipment that automates the process if you volume shoot.
...

This is why I haven't gone with a progressive yet. Brass prep is by far for me the most time consuming part, but I'm also perhaps a bit excessive with it. If I could get over my excesses, a progressive would make much more sense for me.
 
As for powder -- if you can find it I highly recommend Accurate #5 (or #2 but #2 is hotter, uses less powder, and makes it easier to double charge a case -- #5 is a little bulkier so less economical but errors in measuring are also slightly less dangerous).

The Accurate line meters exceptionally well -- this means once you get your powder measure set (by dropping powder and weighing it) -- it will measure an exact load every time. Nothing I've ever used measures as consistently as the Accurate powders.

They also burn extremely cleanly. I started using Accurate after I was having problems with a revolver locking up at around 100 shots or so. I asked a guy at a shop what he suggested, which was the Accurate powder and that completely solved the problem. I've never been able to shoot it enough to gum it up with Accurate.

I sound like I work for them -- I don't. I just love that powder. They publish a reloading manual you can download. Load Data « Accurate Powders
 
This is why I haven't gone with a progressive yet. Brass prep is by far for me the most time consuming part, but I'm also perhaps a bit excessive with it. If I could get over my excesses, a progressive would make much more sense for me.


A progressive is the bomb for brass prep
I have a Dillon Super 1050 that I bought for it's built in swager. I hate swaging primer pockets:mad::mad::mad:
Anyway I lube up a bunch of brass, size and swage it on the 1050, then trim the cases on the Giraud.
Then I tumble the brass with pins, dry it, lube it then pull the sizer die out of the turret and reload it all on the 1050 at about 700-800 rounds per hour.
Easy-peasy:D
 
A progressive is the bomb for brass prep
I have a Dillon Super 1050 that I bought for it's built in swager. I hate swaging primer pockets:mad::mad::mad:
Anyway I lube up a bunch of brass, size and swage it on the 1050, then trim the cases on the Giraud.
Then I tumble the brass with pins, dry it, lube it then pull the sizer die out of the turret and reload it all on the 1050 at about 700-800 rounds per hour.
Easy-peasy:D

I should look into this -- I've been prepping 5.56 cases at a rate I've never done before and it's torture even with a case prep center and bench mounted swager. I have to say if my introduction to reloading had been prepping 5.56 cases, I woulda quit.
 
I should look into this -- I've been prepping 5.56 cases at a rate I've never done before and it's torture even with a case prep center and bench mounted swager. I have to say if my introduction to reloading had been prepping 5.56 cases, I woulda quit.
Amen! I used a Dillon bench swager and decided it should be used to interrogate terrorists or punish criminals
"You are sentenced to... 10,000 cases!!
 

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